On Sat, 26 Aug 2000, John Lewczyk wrote: Say, this is Mike Dogas' collection. It's a shame he has to let everything go like this. It *is* an impressive collection. Sellam International Man of Intrigue and Danger ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Looking for a six in a pile of nines... VCF 4.0 is September 30-October 1 San Jose Convention Center, San Jose, California See http://www.vintage.org for details!

If you have a such a dictionary that you want to sell, please contact me. Thank you. Kevin Stumpf - The Nostalgic Technophile - Unusual Systems www.nostalgictechnophile.com - 519.744.2900 EST/EDT (GMT - 5)

Though they make special materials for making molds and castings in them, I rather suspect that this is a simple enough one that you can easily save some hassle and use components you get at the local lumber yard and/or crafts store rather than having to buy then from a specialty house. You're an engineer, and you can probably figure out how to make a mold. Silastic copies every detail. You won't believe how precisely it does it. It even copies paint finish. These silastic molds require two things. (1) a way to give off acetic acid, which is the inhibitor that keeps them from curing in the container (usually a caulk tube) and (2) a way to get the silastic out of the mold with the model in it so you can cut the mold in half for later extraction of the new plastic part. I personally have used a vertical milling machine (Bridgeport) to make the molds for fairly simple models with only a couple of bends. if your mold is in two pieces and fairly thin, you'll have no trouble getting it out of a two-part mold. If you cut the approximate but generously cleared shape appropriately into a 2x4 which you can later cut in half, that's worked for me. The trick is that the two-part mold have an open top so (a) you can put the model inside before putting the halves of the mold together, and then, having fastened the halves together, you can introduce the silastic. If you use the clear stuff (costs about $2 for a tube) you can see the bubbles and manipulate your material so no bubbles turn up on the surface of your model. There are lots of steps, but when you're done, you have a silastic mold that's reusable, gives an excellent finish, and lets you make excellent copies of an original that may be totally useless for anything except a model. If you need encouragement, email me. If you want details, remember that each job is different. Dick ----- Original Message ----- From: Dwight Elvey <elvey(a)hal.com> To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org> Sent: Friday, August 25, 2000 10:19 PM Subject: Re[2]: Intel PT reader Intellec the