11 Mar
1999
11 Mar
'99
4:52 p.m.
In a message dated 11.3.1999 17:01:29 Eastern Standard Time,
steverob(a)hotoffice.com writes:
As a former model airplane builder, I have found that
the effectiveness of
Superglue varies *tremendously* from brand to brand. There are also several
different types. Some of them are very thin like water. Seems like those
only stick to flesh. Others are more of a Gel and work just the way you'd
expect.
Before giving up, I'd try a couple of different ones. It sure beats waiting
for epoxy to cure. If helps, I'll see if I can find a source for the
"Good"
stuff?
Steve Robertson <steverob(a)hotoffice.com>
i build airplanes as well, and what works good is the thin type glue and then
a shot of that funky smelling accelerator. that makes any suprglue setup
within seconds.
david
11 Mar
11 Mar
5:12 p.m.
Date sent: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:52:12 EST
Send reply to: classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu
From: SUPRDAVE(a)aol.com
To: "Discussion re-collecting of classic computers"
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Help! Apple //c keyboard & whatnot...
Superglue gel is perfect for ill-fitting parts especially in models.
The watery ones works well but important thing is just a little
spread on the cracks and clean breaks on shattered plastic
objects. But those funky black "woodgrain swirly" like parts and
such as seen in HP deskjet, won't work very well in my experience.
My trick after I heard that all superglue sets up by mere water
presence in the air. Simply breathe out gently on glued parts.
Wizard
Steve
Robertson <steverob(a)hotoffice.com>
i build airplanes as well, and what works good is the thin type glue and
then a shot of that funky smelling accelerator. that makes any suprglue
setup within seconds.
david
7:26 p.m.
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8:20 p.m.
On Fri, 12 Mar 1999, Tony Duell wrote:
The maximum bond strength thickness for most iso-cyano
acryllic
hydro-copolymerising adhesives is something like 3 thou. That's why they
work reasonably well for assembling a broken part (i.e. when the 2 things
you're tryinmg to stick were once one piece) and hardly at all for
sticking 2 separate pieces together.
Speaking of which, is there any glue at all that can make a strong
structural bond between two pieces of plastic (not sure what it's called
but when it breaks, the broken surface is sort of rough)?
--Max Eskin (max82(a)surfree.com)
8:34 p.m.
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12 Mar
12 Mar
9:38 p.m.
What is the item you're trying to stick?
Nothing right now, but I was just wondering....I once had a joystick
where the stick extended inside the body and slid in to perpendicular
arcs that attached to potentiometers. The arcs were spring loaded, and
the stick couldn't take the stress. The point simply broke off. I stuck
an old drill bit through it as a skeleton, which worked for a while
until the drill bit broke.
5:53 p.m.
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11 Mar
11 Mar
8:39 p.m.
Date sent: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 21:20:14 -0500 (EST)
Send reply to: classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu
From: Max Eskin <max82(a)surfree.com>
To: "Discussion re-collecting of classic computers"
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Help! Apple //c keyboard & whatnot...
Originally to: Discussion re-collecting of classic computers
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
On Fri, 12 Mar 1999, Tony Duell wrote:
Is that texture of the surface looks like this from HP deskjet
printers or some later printer internal bodies?
Wizard
The maximum bond strength thickness for most
iso-cyano acryllic
hydro-copolymerising adhesives is something like 3 thou. That's why they
work reasonably well for assembling a broken part (i.e. when the 2 things
you're tryinmg to stick were once one piece) and hardly at all for
sticking 2 separate pieces together.
Speaking of which, is there any glue at all that can make a strong
structural bond between two pieces of plastic (not sure what it's called
but when it breaks, the broken surface is sort of rough)? --Max Eskin (max82(a)surfree.com)
12 Mar
12 Mar
1:01 a.m.
Date sent: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 01:26:04 +0000 (GMT)
Send reply to: classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu
From: ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk (Tony Duell)
To: "Discussion re-collecting of classic computers"
<classiccmp(a)u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Help! Apple //c keyboard & whatnot...
I don't know if you can get it in the States, but
over here there's an
'adhesive' called 'Plastic Weld'. It appears to be mostly
dichloromethane,
and it works by disolving the plastic and letting it weld together.
Mine is by "Model Builders Supply, Aurora, Ontario Canada"
named plastic solvent cement, contains Methylene Chloride.
So exporate that by then I got the applicator to the break it's
already half dead and nearly gone. Got it from specialized hobby
store in downtown.
Seems to work on Polystyrene and ABS at least, and
maybe others.
Oh, to add, breathe out gently with mouth wide, size of opening
changes the humidy level.
My trick after I heard that all superglue sets up by mere water
presence in the air. Simply breathe out gently on glued parts.
Yes... The maximum bond strength thickness for most iso-cyano
acryllic
hydro-copolymerising adhesives is something like 3 thou. That's why they
work reasonably well for assembling a broken part (i.e. when the 2 things
you're tryinmg to stick were once one piece) and hardly at all for
sticking 2 separate pieces together.
.003? That's mighty thin to slice!
-tony
Wizard
12:24 a.m.
Superglue gel is perfect for ill-fitting parts
especially in models.
The watery ones works well but important thing is just a little
spread on the cracks and clean breaks on shattered plastic
I recommend the brand called Zap-A-Gap. I'm also into Miniature
Wargamming, and the best thing I've found for fitting the Metal or Platic
figures together is Zap-A-Gap. It's strong enough that it will keep big
heavy metal pieces together.
Clean in a mild soapy solution and rinse with clean water for the best results.
Zane
| Zane H. Healy | UNIX Systems Adminstrator |
| healyzh(a)aracnet.com (primary) | Linux Enthusiast |
| healyzh(a)holonet.net (alternate) | Classic Computer Collector |
+----------------------------------+----------------------------+
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| http://www.dragonfire.net/~healyzh/ |
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9 comments
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participants (5)
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ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
healyzh＠aracnet.com -
jpero＠cgocable.net -
max82＠surfree.com -
SUPRDAVE＠aol.com