22 Dec
2002
22 Dec
'02
10:43 a.m.
Hi,
Well, it looks like the deadbeat seller who was supposed to be selling
me the HN462532 EPROMs has vanished. He's screwed over another 18 people
besides me and has earned a reputation for ignoring emails. So, I now need
to find another source for some HN462532 or TMS2532 (preferred) or 2732
(I'll need to do some bodging to use these, but still usable) EPROMs. I need
at least two of the same type of device, preferably four (so I've got some
spares). I've got a 10 Euro note/bill/whatever sitting on my desk that I'm
willing to use as payment, or I'll pay in Pounds Sterling. Or Paypal. Your
choice.
It looks like my stupid mistake with the Ace put a -12V spike on one of
the data lines and fried everything on the main MCU bus. That is, address
decoder, secondary decoding, main RAM, CPU and ROMs.
And just when I thought this year couldn't get any worse, my Sansui 210
tuner-amp decided to blow its right aux channel this morning. Although this
is a bit OT, I was wondering if anyone here had a service manual for this
model they could copy for me? Heck, at this point even a schematic would be
useful...
Thanks.
--
Phil.
philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com
http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/
22 Dec
22 Dec
11:38 a.m.
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1:13 p.m.
Tony Duell wrote:
Yup. Right input, auxiliary channel. Totally stuffed.
Another trick that I've used is to use 2764s (easy
to find). You can
fit them into the 24 pin socket, and just about all the pins match
up. Solder wires (or some other kludge) to connect pin 2 (A12), 1
(Vpp), 28 (Vcc), 27 (PGM/), 36 (Not used, but now in pin 24 of the
socket, so that it's +5V) together after programming the 4K image
into the upper half of the chip.
I take it you mean pin *26*, not 36... Looks like
I might be able to do
that. If I can get hold of some 2764s. Unfortunately nearly all the
programmable memory devices in my junk^H^H^H^H quality used parts box are
27128s, 27256s or Intel/Catalyst 28F010s. Oh, and I've got a few 27512s if
they're any good...
I would have to hunt for them, but I might have a
couple of new
Hitachi 462532s in the OTP (plastic) package.
[snip]
I have no idea if they're good, and I don't
think I can easily program
them (that was to be another project if I had to re-burn the firmware
for the meter), but if I can find them, are they any use to you?
If you can find
them, they'll be very useful as they're (supposedly) pin
compatible with the TMS2532.
And just
when I thought this year couldn't get any worse, my
Sansui 210 tuner-amp decided to blow its right aux channel this
morning. Although this
Do you mean it's just one input that's failed?
It's the output stages
that normally give trouble. You do, of course, have a ready-made reference circuit
to compare
against
-- namely the left hand channel :-)
Good point.
Later.
--
Phil.
philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com
http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/
1:23 p.m.
Philip Pemberton wrote:
Yup. Right input, auxiliary channel. Totally stuffed.
Time to get a TUBE amp, at least you can fix them. :)
And just when I thought this year couldn't get
any worse, my
Sansui 210 tuner-amp decided to blow its right aux channel this
morning. Although this
Do you mean it's just one input that's failed? It's the output stages
that normally give trouble.
23 Dec
23 Dec
12:06 a.m.
ben franchuk wrote:
Time to get a TUBE amp, at least you can fix them. :)
You mean tube as in vacuum tube (thermionic valve)?
I'd love a valve power amp but it would need at least one Phono input, three
Aux inputs (PC, radio and CD player) and tape recorder in/out. All stereo.
Catch is, the only valve amps I've ever seen like that:
A) Look cool (but where are the Magic Eye VU meters?)
B) Keep a room warm in Winter (not necessarily a bad thing)
C) Cost a lot. We're talking ?300-?400 here...
OTOH, I *could* buy a few 1T4s or similar and a pair of EM84s and build an
amplifier myself. Now if only I could find a decent book on electronic
design that gives more than a passing "These things are obsolete" mention to
valves...
I'd also like to know how people who say that can get away with it. Valves
are still being made in the former USSR - Svetlana is one company name that
springs to mind.
Later.
--
Phil.
philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com
http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/
10:07 a.m.
Hi,
"Philip Pemberton" <philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com> said:
ben franchuk wrote:
You'd be better off with EF86. ECC83 and EL84, EL34 6V6 etc, all of them
still in production. Transformers however are more difficult. They can
cost from 30 to hundreds of pounds!
An old copy of "Mullard Circuits for Audio Amplifiers" shouldn't be too
hard to find. Try Chevet Supllies for starters...
http://www.chevetsupplies.co.uk/
--
Cheers,
Stan Barr stanb(a)dial.pipex.com
The future was never like this!
Time to get a TUBE amp, at least you can fix
them. :)
You mean tube as in vacuum tube (thermionic valve)?
I'd love a valve power amp but it would need at least one Phono input, three
Aux inputs (PC, radio and CD player) and tape recorder in/out. All stereo.
Catch is, the only valve amps I've ever seen like that:
A) Look cool (but where are the Magic Eye VU meters?)
B) Keep a room warm in Winter (not necessarily a bad thing)
C) Cost a lot. We're talking ?300-?400 here...
OTOH, I *could* buy a few 1T4s or similar and a pair of EM84s and build an
amplifier myself. Now if only I could find a decent book on electronic
design that gives more than a passing "These things are obsolete" mention to
valves...
2:34 p.m.
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5:49 p.m.
Tony Duell wrote:
You're not looking in the right place!. IIRC, the
Radiotron Designers
Handbook has been reprinted (at least it was in-print as a reprint a few
years ago). Mullard's 'Circuits for Audio Amplifiers' is not hard to find
(either second hand or a reprint). There's an excellent GEC book called
something like 'An Aproach to Audio Amplifier Design' which _starts_ with
the Williamson and goes on to kW-power amplifiers (!).
Remember hi-fi sound is not allways high power.
The first watt is the most important.
http://www.decware.com/zpower.htm
One other option is cad software for tubes/valves.
http://www.glass-ware.com/
Several good ideas can be found here.
http://www.tubecad.com/
Back issues of "wireless world" may also be helpful,
but I am not sure what they all themselves today.
Ben.
24 Dec
24 Dec
7:34 a.m.
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7:48 a.m.
Sure! I am sure I read somewhere (probably in a
Mullard book) that '20W
is adequate for a small cathedral' :-)
Depends on what you're driving. Into a pair of Dalquist DQ-10's, you'll be
lucky to hear anything. Into a set of Klipsch K-horns, you'll blow your
ears out.
--John
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk-admin(a)classiccmp.org
[mailto:cctalk-admin@classiccmp.org]On
Behalf Of Tony Duell
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 13:32
To: cctalk(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: WTD: TMS2532, HN462532 or 2732 EPROMs
Remember hi-fi sound is not allways high power.
Sure! I am sure I read somewhere (probably in a Mullard book)
that '20W
is adequate for a small cathedral' :-)
The Williamson (15W) is a classic design, though, and any book which
covers it is surely worth reading. I am not suggesting that
anyone makes
a 1.1kW vavle amplifer (the output vavles and transformer
would be almost
impossible to get now!).
-tony
23 Dec
23 Dec
9:52 p.m.
Tony Duell wrote:
Always useful. Need another input? Add another valve and some
extra
connectors :)
Which explains why it was used in the RF section
of R. A. Penfold's
"Two-valve SW Radio" project (published in EPE October 2001). But not why it
was used in the audio amp section...
EPE also published a 6V to 90V step-up converter in the February 2002 issue.
Whether it will work on 12V (well, 13.8V) or if I can get 200V out of it is
another question entirely. Might be fun to build a portable valve amplifier
with a built-in rechargeable SLA battery.
Now I know what I'm going to spend what's left of my electronics
budget on.
I'd love a
valve power amp but it would need at least one Phono
input, th= ree
Aux inputs (PC, radio and CD player) and tape recorder in/out. All
stereo.
If you build your own, then you can have whatever combination of
inputs you want... Catch is, the
only valve amps I've ever seen like that:
A) Look cool (but where are the Magic Eye VU meters?)
B) Keep a room warm in Winter (not necessarily a bad thing)
C) Cost a lot. We're talking =A3300-=A3400 here...
OTOH, I *could* buy a few 1T4s or similar and a pair of EM84s and
build a= n
1T4 = DF91. That's an RF/IF pentode. It could be used for audio
output, but at _very_ low power... You'd be better off considering something like
EL84, EL34, or even
better KT66 or KT88 valves (the real GEC ones if you can find them
[1]) for the output stage.
EL84: B9A connector, Pentode. Should make a good audio
preamp if not a power
output stage.
[1] A camera shop (!) closed down locally last year.
They had some
valves that were used in cine projectors which they sold off for
\pounds 1.00 each, all brand new, boxed. Most were Mullard
EF86/ECC83/EL84 types (I think a total of 8). But the other 2 were
GEC KT88s (!). Of course I handed them a tenner and took the lot...
:)
And I get to pay a fiver per valve plus ?1.60 for the sockets...
amplifier
myself. Now if only I could find a decent book on
electronic design that gives more than a passing "These things are
obsolete" mention= to
valves...
You're not looking in the right place!. IIRC, the Radiotron
Designers
Handbook has been reprinted (at least it was in-print as a reprint a
few years ago). Mullard's 'Circuits for Audio Amplifiers' is not hard
to find (either second hand or a reprint). There's an excellent GEC
book called something like 'An Aproach to Audio Amplifier Design'
which _starts_ with the Williamson and goes on to kW-power amplifiers
(!). Second-hand bookshops are well worth looking at...
Chevet (IIRC) and Chelmer Valve Co. had some of those books, IIRC. I think
www.valves.uk.com have a few of them too. That's where I've been getting
prices from.
Later.
--
Phil.
philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com
http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/
24 Dec
24 Dec
7:43 a.m.
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23 Dec
23 Dec
2:26 p.m.
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22 Dec
22 Dec
11:41 a.m.
--- Philip Pemberton <philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com> wrote:
Hi,
Well, it looks like the deadbeat seller who was supposed to be
selling me the HN462532 EPROMs has vanished...
Ow! That sucks.
I now need to find another source for some HN462532 or
TMS2532
(preferred)
or 2732...
I have a quantity of used 2732s available, but you will probably be happier
with 2532s (less work). They are available from BG Micro for $2 each...
http://bgm.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?sid=0693784722222222242105076&prodi…
-ethan
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12:54 p.m.
Ethan Dicks wrote:
--- Philip Pemberton <philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com>
wrote:
Indeed it
does...
Hi,
Well, it looks like the deadbeat seller who was supposed to be
selling me the HN462532 EPROMs has vanished...
Ow! That sucks. I have a quantity of used 2732s available, but you
will probably be
happier with 2532s (less work). They are available from BG Micro for
$2 each...
http://bgm.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?sid=0693784722222222242105076&prodi…
2532&page=1&cri=2532&stype=3
Complete with a $15 shipping charge. Oh, *great*. This just keeps on getting
better.
BTW, does anyone know what the current consumption of a "raw" Jupiter Ace
is? Mine's drawing about 700mA from the mains PSU. I've repaired a load of
PCB tracks and pads with 30AWG wirewrap wire and I've succeeded in getting a
constant display. It does alternate in some areas, but the chip select out
pin on the LS138 (the one that goes to the video RAMs) is pulsing, so I
guess that's normal. The machine demonstrates no reaction whatsoever to
keyboard input. Grr... If this continues, I'm going to raid what little I've
saved up for a new monitor and use it to fix this annoying machine. I shall
not be beaten by a chunk of fiberglass, copper, silicon and plastic! I still
need five case locking pins though. Anyone got a dead Ace (I'm thinking
cooked tracks or cascade failure) that has a full complement of case pins.
If all else fails I'll add a pack of 3mm nylon bolts to my Farnell order...
Later.
--
Phil.
philpem(a)dsl.pipex.com
http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/
7883
days inactive
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15 comments
7 participants
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allain＠panix.com -
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