14 Oct
2012
14 Oct
'12
2:05 p.m.
you put in a disk, you get a cursor, but that`s it.
Puter won`t give
disk back. Do I have to take it apart?
The SD-321 drives have a lock mechanism that should release the disk when
the button is in the 'out' position. But it doesn't as the old grease
keeps the lock in place. I have observed this with both the QX10 and the
TF-20 which both use the 1/3 height SD-321 disk drives. So far I managed
to get my disks back by prying the lock upwards (or was it downwards?)
with my fingers (not very pleasant work). Everytime I plan to fix the
drive by replacing the gunked grease, but so far it didn't happen.
Greetings & success,
Fred Jan
16 Oct
16 Oct
9:05 p.m.
From: Fred Jan Kraan <fjkraan at xs4all.nl>
you put in a disk, you get a cursor, but that`s it.
Puter won`t give
disk back. Do I have to take it apart?
The SD-321 drives have a lock mechanism that should release the disk when
the button is in the 'out' position. But it doesn't as the old grease
keeps the lock in place. I have observed this with both the QX10 and the
TF-20 which both use the 1/3 height SD-321 disk drives. So far I managed
to get my disks back by prying the lock upwards (or was it downwards?)
with my fingers (not very pleasant work). Everytime I plan to fix the
drive by replacing the gunked grease, but so far it didn't happen.
Greetings & success,
Fred Jan
C: for arguments sake (and in the event the stuck disk is expendable), couldn't you
remove the drive and soak it w/isopropyl alcohol or something? To wash away the old
grease?
9:39 p.m.
On Tue, 16 Oct 2012, Chris Tofu wrote:
Fred Jan Kraan <fjkraan at xs4all.nl> wrote:
That might begin to loosen the old grease but won't remove it and might
well damage any electromechanical parts such as motors. Once the IPA
evaporates, the grease will re-solidify anyway since the original oils in
the grease have dried up.
Better still, disassemble the drive and soak the _mechanical_ bits in
mineral spirits (white spirits, paint thinner) and brush the gunk off with
an old toothbrush. Mineral spirits can be reused again and again for this
type of cleaning, just pour off the used solution into an airtight
container such as a glass mason jar and allow the grease and such to
settle to the bottom. Once clean, reassemble with fresh grease.
Chris Tofu wrote:
for arguments sake (and in the event the stuck disk is expendable),
couldn't you remove the drive and soak it w/isopropyl alcohol or
something? To wash away the old grease? you put in a disk, you get a cursor, but that`s
it. Puter won`t give
disk back. Do I have to take it apart?
The SD-321 drives have a lock mechanism that should release the disk
when the button is in the 'out' position. But it doesn't as the old
grease keeps the lock in place. I have observed this with both the QX10
and the TF-20 which both use the 1/3 height SD-321 disk drives. So far
I managed to get my disks back by prying the lock upwards (or was it
downwards?) with my fingers (not very pleasant work). Everytime I plan
to fix the drive by replacing the gunked grease, but so far it didn't
happen. 
17 Oct
17 Oct
5:18 p.m.
for arguments
sake (and in the event the stuck disk is expendable),
couldn't you remove the drive and soak it w/isopropyl alcohol or
something? To wash away the old grease?
That might begin to loosen the old grease but won't remove it and might
well damage any electromechanical parts such as motors. Once the IPA
evaporates, the grease will re-solidify anyway since the original oils in
the grease have dried up.
Better still, disassemble the drive and soak the _mechanical_ bits in
In this case it all comes apart easily, you can separate the various
levers The idifivdual parts can be soaked in either white spriit or
propan-2-ol to sofent the grease, adn then wiped Don't forget to celan
out the pivot holes, this is where problems often staer.
I have foudn the notes I made when I stripepd and rebuilt oen of thse
drives. Unfortuantely my sequence invovled removign the linear positioner
early on, if you do that, you lose the radial alignment and have ot use
an alignment disk to re-set it. This is no problem if you have such a
disk, but it may put you off.
What I don't know is if you can dispmantle the disk guides and levers
with the positioner still on the chassis. If you can, then there's no
problem. If not, then I guess you have ot do the alignment.
Althought I describe how to do it, do not strip the spindle motor or
lienar positioenr units unless you have to. They are not easy to reassble
correctly.
Anywy, here are my notes
SD320, SD321 drive dismantling
-------------------------------
Remove the logic board :
Undo the 4 screws fixing the logic board. The rear left is a long machine
screw, rear right a short machine screw, centre right and front centre are
(short) self-tapping screws. Lift the logic board to disconnect the 3 pin
connector at front left (index/write protect sensors), 10 pin
(positioner) and 3 pin (spindle motor) connectors at rear. Turn logic
board over towards right side of the drive. Free the head cables from the
clamps on the logic PCB, unplug the head connector. Set the logic board
aside.
On SD320 (with head load solenoid), dismantle the head load mechanism :
Remove the screw and washer on top of the head load solenoid. Loosen the
screw fro the rear bearing of the head load flap (this screw is on the
left side of the drive chassis) until the bearing can be turned away from
the pivot pin. Free the hard load flap from its front bearing, remove it,
note how the compression spring fits over a peg on the base of the linear
positioner. Remove the conical spring from the top of the head load
solenoid, remove the solenoid armature. Remove the screw and bearing
(loosened earlier). Remove the screw holding the head load solenoid to
the chassis, lift out the solenoid and 'stick' it to the linear
positioner magnet. When reassembling this section, note that the screw on
top of the solenoid should not be fully tightened. Adjust it so that the
heads load correctly when the drive is tested on an exerciser.
Remove the linear positioner (voice coil assembly) :
Undo the 2 screws + springs and the single countersunk screw fixing the
linear positioner to the main chassis. Free the head cables from the
clips on the right-hand disk guide. Place a piece of paper between the
heads, lift the positioner from the rear and slide it out
Remove the disk clamp :
Unhook and remove the tension spring for the frontpanel button linkage.
Mark the position of the index sensor on the disk clamp bridge to aid
reassembly. Remove the 3 screws holding the bridge in place, lift it up
and turn it over towards the left side of the drive (take care not to
damage the index phototransistor wiring. Remove the 3 spacers from the
slots in the disk guides. Free the index phototransistor wiring from the
hooks on the bridge, remove the screw holding the phototransistor mount
in place and remove the bridge completely.
Remove the spindle motor and spindle :
Remove the 2 screws holding the spindle motor in place. Remove the motor,
slipping the belt off the pulley. Remove the belt from the idler and
spindle. Remove the idler (one central screw, washer on top of bearing).
Remove the central screw from the spindle hub, lift off the spindle hub
and remove the bearings (crinkle washer under top bearing). If possible
remove the washer from the fixed spindle in the chassis
Remove the front panel :
Remove the 2 screws and slide the panel out, taking care not to damage
the index LED wiring.
Remove the disk guides :
Remove the right hand disk guide (2 screws). Remove the index LED
mounting (1 screw), then remove the screw holding the left hand disk
guide. Remove the guide. Undo the screw holding the sensor PCB to the
guide and remove it.
Dismantle the interlock lever :
Unhook the tension spring from the eject linkage. Remove the E-circlip
from one end of the interlock lever pivot, slide out
the pivot rod and
remove the lever. Recover the compression spring.
---------------------------------------------------
Dismantling the spindle motor
-----------------------------
Do NOT dismantle the spindle motor unless absolutely necessary. Most
electronic repairs can be performed without dismantling the mechanical
section. However, should it be necessary to dismantle it, proceed as follows.
Clean off the silicone rubber over the FG (frequency generator) coil
wires. Try to avoid damaging the wires. Desolder them from the PCB pads.
Bend up the 4 tabs on the bottom of the motor and pull off the housing
complete with the FG coil.
Support the motor on a bench vice with the pulley between the jaws. Using
a hammer and pin punch, tap the spindle downwards until it is free from
the rotor. Remove the rotor from the top of the motor. Remove the
spindle, washer, and lower bearing. Push out the upper bearing.
If the FG wires were damaged when the cover was removed, carefully
scrape away the tops of the 3 heat stakes retaining the coil former
inside the housing. Pull out the former (and lower pole piece), and
either unwind one turn to give a longer end of wire for reassembly, or
re-wind the coil. Put the former back in place, if you have been careful
in removing it, it will snap in place without further fixing.
Motor Protection Circuit :
The circuit round Q33 removes the drive from the motor if the control
voltage from IC10 rises too high (either because the motor is overloaded,
or because the FG signal is missing). If this triggers too easily (the
motor stops after a few seconds), decrease R76 to 56k
---------------------------------------------------
Dismantling the positioner
--------------------------
On an SD-320, desolder the head load solenoid leads from the positioner
connector PCB and set the solenoid aside
Undo the PCB retaining screw and allow the PCB to move away from the rear
of the positioner.
Undo the screw holding the graticule to the carriage. Remove the clamp
plate under the screw, then with the heads fully 'out', free the
graticule from the carriage and slide it out of the optical block.
Straighten the end 2 tabs on the underside of the unit (these retain the
cover on the velocity transducer). Remove the cover.
Remove the rear section of the voice coil core, which is retained by a
single screw under the rear of the positioner.
Remove the 2 screws holding the voice coil and velocity transducer coil
to the carriage. With the heads 'out', remove the pole piece from the
middle of the velocity transducer coil (this is retained by magnetism only).
Retract the heads, then lift the coils off the carriage. Leave them
hanging on the flexible PCB
Remove the clamps from the rear end of each head rail (1 screw each).
Slide out the front clamp, then lift out the head carriage and remove the
rails
---------------------------------------------------
Dismantling the disk-inserted levers
------------------------------------
(These are the linkages on the left-hand disk guide.)
Unhook the torsion spring and slide out the eject interlock flap. Remove
the spring
Unhook the torsion spring on the latch lever (top rear of the guide).
Remove the E-circlip, the torsion spring and the latch lever
Unhook the torsion spring on the disk-present lever (under the front of
the guide. Remove the E-circlip, the torsion spring and the disk-present
lever.
Remove the E-circlips on the mounting posts for the frontpanel button
slide. Remove the 2 washers, lift off the slide and recover the following
parts : 2 spacers and 2 washers from the mounting posts ; 2 rollers from
the slide ; 1 reaction plate from the guide
---------------------------------------------------
Dismantling the disk clamp assembly
-----------------------------------
Pull the disk clamp lever away from the bridge by hand until the disk
clamp cone is free of the spindle. Slide the clamp cone out of the end of
the lever.
Unhook the torsion spring. Remove the E-circlip from the end of the pivot
spindle, slide out the spindle and remove the torsion spring. Separate
the clamp lever from the bridge.
Unclip the 2 halves of the disk clamp cone and remove the compression
spring. Press out the bearing. Remove the circlip and slide the bush out
of the centre of the bearing.
---------------------------------------------------
Bearings
--------
Clamp Bearing
ID : 4.6mm
OD : 9.5mm
Thickness 3.17mm (1/8")
Motor Bearings and Belt Idler
ID : 3mm
OD : 8mm
Thickness : 4mm
Spindle Bearings
ID : 4.75mm
OD : 9.5mm
Flange OD : 10.8mm
Total Thickness : 3.15mm
Flange Thickness : 0.75mm
---------------------------------------------------
SD320 links :
SS1 (6 position DIP switch)
1 : Drive select 0
2 : Drive select 1
3 : Drive select 2
4 : Drive select 3
5 : Head load from pin 4 of interface connector *
6 : Head load from drive select
SS2 :
HS : Load controlled by head-load signal *
MS : load controlled by motor enable
SS3 :
DS : In-use LED controlled by drive select
HL : In-use LED controlled by head load drive *
---------------------------------------------------
Testpoints :
1 : Ground
2 ) Differential outputs of read amplifier
3 )
4 ) Differential inputs to comparator
5 )
6 Index sensor
7 Index pulse
8 Drive Select/
-tony
20 Oct
20 Oct
1:15 p.m.
From: Tony Duell <ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk>
Indeed. I ngernal, soaking a fully-assembled unit, or randomly squirting
solvents (or worse lubricants, and even worse Wanton Destruction 40) into
mechanisms is a bad idea.
C: Well, and I realize that a keyboard is an entirely different beast, but I have no
problem tossing a k/b (w/o foam depression pads, you'd better check!) in a bath of hot
water, soap, and ammonia. Let it soak, rattle the keys, rinse, let it dry THOROUGHLY, and
it works great. There are solvents good and bad. Large motors I've left out in the
elements, heck left one submerged for months, dried them out, and they worked fine. Small
electronic motors could be an entirely different thing. But I'm not apprehensive about
introducing solvents into *some* electronics at least. I'll admit though they range
from ok to bad to worse though.
for arguments
sake (and in the event the stuck disk is expendable),
couldn't you remove the drive and soak it w/isopropyl alcohol or
something? To wash away the old grease?
That might begin to loosen the old grease but won't remove it and might
well damage any electromechanical parts such as motors. Once the IPA
evaporates, the grease will re-solidify anyway since the original oils in
the grease have dried up.
3:54 p.m.
On Sat, 20 Oct 2012, Chris Tofu wrote:
From: Tony Duell <ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk>
I've run keyboard subassemblies through the dishwasher* before (disable
the dry cycle!) but soaking in a bucket of hot water and soap certainly
works too.
[*pre-energy saver models, modern dishwashers that rely on rinse agents
such as JetDry can and /will/ etch and discolor plastics with only a
single wash cycle.]
Indeed. I ngernal, soaking a fully-assembled
unit, or randomly
squirting solvents (or worse lubricants, and even worse Wanton
Destruction 40) into mechanisms is a bad idea.
Well, and I realize that a keyboard is an entirely different beast, but
I have no problem tossing a k/b (w/o foam depression pads, you'd better
check!) in a bath of hot water, soap, and ammonia. Let it soak, rattle
the keys, rinse, let it dry THOROUGHLY, and it works great. There are
solvents good and bad. Large motors I've left out in the elements, heck
left one submerged for
months, dried them out, and they worked fine.
Did you disassemble them and repack the ball bearings with fresh grease?
If not, washing that grease out will certainly cause them to fail before
too long.
Small electronic motors could be an entirely different
thing.
Small stepper motors and such would not like it at all.
But I'm not apprehensive about introducing
solvents into *some*
electronics at least. I'll admit though they range from ok to bad to
worse though.
Like anything else, you need to know what sort of parts can handle
washing. Just as you can wash some PC boards, certain electromechanical
parts such as pushbuttons, relays, and even other parts such as non-sealed
variable resistors and tunable inductors may not be able to handle being
washed and may have been installed on the PC board after the initial
cleaning during manufacture.
21 Oct
21 Oct
3:53 p.m.
But I'm
not apprehensive about introducing solvents into *some*
electronics at least. I'll admit though they range from ok to bad to
worse though.
Like anything else, you need to know what sort of parts can handle
washing. Just as you can wash some PC boards, certain electromechanical parts such as pushbuttons, relays, and even other
parts such as non-sealed
variable resistors and tunable inductors may not be able to handle being
washed and may have been installed on the PC board after the initial
cleaning during manufacture.
Alternatively there may have been sealing tapes applied when the
component was made and pulled off after the compnent was fitted ot tghe
PCB and the PCB cleaned. I have seen at least one relay which had a
plastic 'pip' on top you were supposed to cut off after the relay was
fitted and tge PCB had been cleaned. Obviously with suych parts there's
no way to re-seal them for subsequenct cleaning of the board.
-tony
17 Oct
17 Oct
9:38 a.m.
On 10/16/2012 08:05 PM, Chris Tofu wrote:
From: Fred Jan Kraan<fjkraan at xs4all.nl>
If you're at the point of taking the drives out, you can trip the drive
release mechanism "internally" with a finger to get the disk to release.
Well, unless you have incredibly weedy fingers, I suppose :-)
Then dismantle the eject mech, clean, re-grease and reassemble. (I think
Tony's cautioned in the past against dismantling the head assembly /
positioner, which is certainly sound advice, but thankfully there's no need
to do that just to get at the eject assembly).
cheers
Jules
you put in a disk, you get a cursor, but that`s
it. Puter won`t give
disk back. Do I have to take it apart?
The SD-321 drives have a lock mechanism that should release the disk
when the button is in the 'out' position. But it doesn't as the old
grease keeps the lock in place. I have observed this with both the QX10
and the TF-20 which both use the 1/3 height SD-321 disk drives. So far I
managed to get my disks back by prying the lock upwards (or was it
downwards?) with my fingers (not very pleasant work). Everytime I plan
to fix the drive by replacing the gunked grease, but so far it didn't
happen.
Greetings& success,
Fred Jan
C: for arguments sake (and in the event the stuck disk is expendable),
couldn't you remove the drive and soak it w/isopropyl alcohol or
something? To wash away the old grease?
6:11 p.m.
Then dismantle the eject mech, clean, re-grease and reassemble. (I think
Tony's cautioned in the past against dismantling the head assembly /
positioner, which is certainly sound advice, but thankfully there's no need
to do that just to get at the eject assembly).
There are 2 issues.
The positioner comnes off as a module very easily. But if you do that,
you wil lahve to set the radial alignemt when you put it back -- said
alignement is set by moving the positioner. it's easy to do if you have
na alignment disk.
Much worse is taking the posiiioner module apart. There's rarely a reason
to do this, but if you do, you wil lhave fund settign it all up again.
Don't ask how I found out.
But you certainly don't need to strip the positioner to repair the eject
linkages. Yu probably don't need to remove it either.
-tony
23 Oct
23 Oct
2:43 a.m.
New subject: HP 9845 power supply diagnostics
Tony and Rik,
Can you guys just sanity check something? A colleague was scratching his head with this,
so it seemed sensible to ask.
On the mains input cable to the power supply, for 240 v external supply, what's the
test voltage we should see across each pair?
BTW Tony, thanks again for your advice on the PERQ. It's been a working display for a
couple of weeks now. I still on the lookout for an engaging app to demo. At the moment its
just running Spy.
-- Colin
4:32 p.m.
New subject: HP 9845 power supply diagnostics
On Tue, 23 Oct 2012, Colin Eby wrote:
Can you guys just sanity check something? A colleague
was scratching his
head with this, so it seemed sensible to ask.
On the mains input cable to the power supply, for 240 v external supply,
what's the test voltage we should see across each pair?
"pair"??
y'mean including neutral? ground? center tap?
"Single phase"?
"Three Phase"?
"Delta"?
"Y"?
DC?
Peak to peak?
RMS?
These questions may be stupid, but you really didn't specify what kind of
power you are talking about.
5:25 p.m.
New subject: HP 9845 power supply diagnostics
On Tue, 23 Oct 2012, Colin Eby wrote:
The HP9845 PSU is a complex beast, but at least it only takes in
single=phase mains...
The PSU itself is built onm 5 PCBs (or at least the one in my machine
is). 2 of them haev card edges that fit into edge connectors on the main
backplane and carry all the DC outputs. We are not concerned with those yet
There is also a 4 pin conenctor that plugs into a mating conenctor on the
chassis metalwork when the PSU is slotted it. This conenctor is wired to
a 4 way barrier strip thing on the side of the PSU casing. I asusme it';s
this that he's taling about Nothe that the order of conenctions on the
connecotr and the barrier strip are NOT the same.
The middle 2 pins of this arry the live and neutral mains, after hte
switch and fuse. The otehr 2 are shorted together by the voltaeg slector
swithc for 230V mains and are effecively a half-mains-voltaeg point using
the primary of the startup transformer as an autotransformer.This is used
ot powet the 2 120V AC cooling fans.
[Some detail on the intenrals... The startup transofrmer has apair of
120V primaries. the 4 conenctions are brought out to this barrier strip
in an illogical order :-). FOr 230V they're in series, the common
connection is the tap i just mentioned. For 115V they;re in parallel. The
main SMPUS part has the nroaml doubler/bridge rectifier circuit, the tap
of th capacitors is conencted to a suitable end of a primary widing in of
the startup transoformer]
Can you guys just sanity check something? A
colleague was scratching his
head with this, so it seemed sensible to ask.
On the mains input cable to the power supply, for 240 v external supply,
what's the test voltage we should see across each pair?
"pair"??
y'mean including neutral? ground? center tap?
"Single phase"?
"Three Phase"?
"Delta"?
"Y"?
DC?
Peak to peak?
RMS?
Single pahse, RMS, 50Hz (at least in the UK :-)).
In all cases you should see :
120V between 1 and 2 on the barrier strip. 120V between 3 and 4. Mains
(120V or 240V as apporpriate) between 2 and 3.
These questions may be stupid, but you really
didn't specify what kind of
power you are talking about.
No, but he did specify (almost) the machine. A quick look at hte
schematics of the 9845B would answer the above questions I think.
-tony
4:49 p.m.
New subject: HP 9845 power supply diagnostics
Tony and Rik,
Can you guys just sanity check something? A colleague was scratching
his head with this, so it seemed sensible to ask.
On the mains input cable to the power supply, for 240 v external
supply, what's the test voltage we should see across each pair?
There are several versios of the HP9845. The 9845A is very differnet to
the 9845B. The 9845B anmd 9845C (colour) are similar apart from the
monitor section (which includes a lot of digitial circuitry, jsut to keep
you on your toes...)
I beelvie the PSU come in sevearl version too, and that 9845Bs wit hthe
'high speed language processor' have a different PSU to normal ones.
You can get my schematics for the 9845B from the Australian site, but of
course they only cover the machine I've got -- a 9845B with high speed
language processoar and enhanced monochrome nonitor.
With that in mid...
The easiest place to check the mains wiring is on the barrier stip of
faston terminals on the side of the PSU casing. There are 4 connections
there, iot may look like more, but theuy common together internally. All
the wires of the same colour are linked.
Numbering the tags with 1 at the top and 4 at the bottom, and assuming the
votlage selector is set to 230V:
Between 2 (White/.Red/Geey) and 3 (Grey) you should see full mains voltage
Between 1 (White/Green/Grey) and 2 (white/Red/Grey) you should see half
mains voltage
Btween 3 (Grey) and 4 (white/Yellow/Grey) you should, again, see half
mains voltage.
The cooling fans are 120V AC units. The left hand one is conencted
between tags 1 and 2. The right hand one is conencted between tages 3 and
4. The internal circuitry of the PSU include asmall mains transformer
used ot power the chopper cotnrol circuitry. With the selector set ot
230V, the priomary of this transformer also acts as an autotransformwer
to split the maisn in ahlf for the fans.
Are the fans running? If so, then the mains input is almost certainly
correct.
This power supply is complicated -- very. The one I have is on 5 circuit
boards, in contains 17 ICs and has 4 chopepr transistors. Take care!
BTW Tony, thanks again for your advice on the PERQ. It's been a working
display for a couple of weeks now. I still on the lookout for an
engaging app to demo. At the moment its just running Spy.
What was the problem with the monitor?
-tony
5:20 p.m.
New subject: Ruining a perfectly good 11/24 for scrap in NM
Maybe someone in New Mexico might be able to talk him into selling the
whole thing and save it before he destroys it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281008663396
6:59 p.m.
New subject: Ruining a perfectly good 11/24 for scrap in NM
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org [mailto:cctalk-
bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of mc68010
Sent: 23 October 2012 22:20
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Ruining a perfectly good 11/24 for scrap in NM
Maybe someone in New Mexico might be able to talk him into selling the
whole thing and save it before he destroys it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281008663396
Oh dear! Wrong side of the Atlantic again! I have an 11/24 with a bad PSU
that I am struggling to repair, if I could afford to ship the PSU I would
have it. There again the seller seems not to even want to offer shipping
abroad anyway :-(
Regards
Rob
26 Oct
26 Oct
9:19 a.m.
New subject: Ruining a perfectly good 11/24 for scrap in NM
I e-mailed the eBay seller, and asked why he'd destroy such a thing. He
told me the listing for the parts were parts that were already removed from
a system. He also said he had a "complete" PDP 11/24 --- which he has
now listed with a RX02. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281010406750
I'm not familiar with these enough to know if it's "complete", but it
looks
nice in any case.
Garrett Meiers
On Tue, Oct 23, 2012 at 5:59 PM, Rob Jarratt <robert.jarratt at ntlworld.com>wrote:
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org [mailto:cctalk-
bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of mc68010
Sent: 23 October 2012 22:20
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Ruining a perfectly good 11/24 for scrap in NM
Maybe someone in New Mexico might be able to talk him into selling the
whole thing and save it before he destroys it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281008663396
Oh dear! Wrong side of the Atlantic again! I have an 11/24 with a bad PSU
that I am struggling to repair, if I could afford to ship the PSU I would
have it. There again the seller seems not to even want to offer shipping
abroad anyway :-(
Regards
Rob
9:46 a.m.
New subject: Ruining a perfectly good 11/24 for scrap in NM
hopefully it goes to a good home then
23 Oct
23 Oct
5:57 p.m.
New subject: HP 9845 power supply diagnostics
On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 11:43 PM, Colin Eby <colineby at isallthat.com> wrote:
BTW Tony, thanks again for your advice on the PERQ. It's been a working
display for a couple of weeks now. I still on the lookout for an engaging
app to demo. At the moment its just running Spy.
Were you able to archive any of the software you got with the PERQ? Any
chance of making it available if so? Always looking for more stuff to run
on my PERQ (and PERQemu) :).
Thanks,
Josh
-- Colin
20 Oct
20 Oct
1:10 p.m.
From: Jules Richardson <jules.richardson99 at gmail.com>
If you're at the point of taking the drives out...<snip>
C: actually I'm way past that point. Or the QX-10 is anyway. Shipped it out, recipient
is obviously happy
???? Just thought I'd ask :)
4261
days inactive
4273
days old
18 comments
12 participants
participants (12)
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ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
cisin＠xenosoft.com -
colineby＠isallthat.com -
derschjo＠gmail.com -
fjkraan＠xs4all.nl -
gm10＠consulnix.com -
jules.richardson99＠gmail.com -
mc68010＠gmail.com -
rampaginggreenhulk＠yahoo.com -
robert.jarratt＠ntlworld.com -
tdk.knight＠gmail.com -
tothwolf＠concentric.net