6 Feb
2011
6 Feb
'11
8:19 p.m.
Depends on the 'take over' :-) It certianly says 'Made in Sweden' on th
front and on the rating plate,
Asko took over Cylinda from ASEA or ABB, don't remember if it was before or
after the ASEA-Brown Boveri merger.
Maybe they drop the Cylinda part overseas for marketing reasons or
something.
I have always
thought that the UK system was much more sensible. Not
only
are all plugs and sockets earthed, fused and
switched, but they are also
I am not sure what sockets are still permitted over here, but the
standard one is the 13A plug to BS1363, which is indeed earthed,
polaraised, and cotnains a cartridge fuse.
Do socket outlets have to be switched? I would never
fit one that isn't,
but I thoguth unswitched ones were still available.
No switched sockets at all here, unfortunately, possibly with the exception
of sockets for electric irons in communal laundries in blocks of flats etc.
And coffee makers in workplaces etc are always connected through a timer,
since there have been fires caused by coffee makers boiling dry and the
protection device having failed closed-circuit. It is probably illegal to
run a coffee maker without a timer in a workplace.
polarised so it is impossible to switch live and
neutral (provided the
electrician who installed them knew what he was doing). The Swedish
plugs
Sensible people check to make sure ;-). There are plenty of so-called
'electricians' who get this wrong.
I
beleive that some countries (Germnany?) oftn have a pair of 16A socket
outlets protected by a single 32A breaker. And you could plug a small
appliance in to osme of those sockets with no other protecive devices in
the circuit, even if the flexible cable to the devive is rated at 3A,
say. No thanks!
[...]
Sockets and lighting circuits here are usually protected by a 10A fuse in
the switchboard. Modern switchboards have miniature breakers for each
circuit, the kind with both a magnetic and a thermal trip. Older
installations only have a fuse. If you connect a shaver or something to the
socket and the shaver shorts out, I suppose it is possible that the
insulation on the shaver cable might melt before the fuse blew (shavers
usually have a 0.5 mm2 cable).
But more seriosuly, I feel I might well die from electrocution. After all
I work on mains-powered stuff most days and something could go wrong.
But
this doens;t mean I am not going to be sensible about it and use RCDs etc
if I think they could help.
Actually it might not be a bad way to go provided the voltage and current
were high enough.
> I don't intend to bring it about by
electrocution in the bathroom. And
of
course the RCD
goes on the end of the lead outside the bathroom. I would
want one even in a dedicated darkroom.
I have a dedicated darkroom (it's a little hard treating a DeVere 504
enlarger as a temporary device :-)), but I still have (and want) an RCD
on the incoming mains to it.
7 Feb
7 Feb
8:40 p.m.
No switched sockets at all here, unfortunately,
possibly with the exception
If you live in a country where switched sockets are uncommon, I would
recommnend making up a mains lead witha double-pole switch (and if you
like a neon indictator and fuse/breaker) in the middle of it. Use that
when powering up dismantled devices on your workbench. It's a lot safer
to use that switch that the one i nthe unt (which may well have live
terminals that are easy to touch when flipping it) and a lot easier and
kinder ot the conenctors than plugging and unplugging one of the connectors.
I can well believe so. Many years ago I witnessed a
very experienced
electrician getting the hair dryer treatment from his boss because he had
used a green/yellow piece of wire for a phase connection in an industrial
installation.
Ouch! I am pretty sure it's a requirement over here that the 'earth'
colours (green/yellow now, was green) are anot used for anything elase in
installations. I almost never use green/yellow wire for anything else
even inside electronic equipment. The exception would be if I have a
piece of multi-core signal cable which happens ot have a green/yellow
wire in it. Even then I will try to use it for protective ground if I can
Until a few years ago, the phase wires in fixed installations were red,
yellow and blue with black neutral. To come into line with the rest of
Europe we now have black, brown, grey as the phase colours and blue as
neutral. I asked 'OK, if I see a distribution board wired with blue and
black wires, how do I know if it's part of the 'blue' phase of an old
instation or the 'black' phase of a new one'. The answer 'Test it!'.
Which actually, I would do anyway...
Here unfortunately there is no way of knowing which
wire is live on the
appliance, since the plug can be connected either way round.
Make sure all the sockets in your workshop are wired the same way round
and lable the plugs 'top' ?
I have a
dedicated darkroom (it's a little hard treating a DeVere 504
enlarger as a temporary device :-)), but I still have (and want) an RCD
on the incoming mains to it.
Sadly I only have a 35mm enlarger, I am hoping to modify it to take 6x6
negatives. But I also have quite a few old 6x9 negatives which would be nice
to print. Happily for me, enlargers are cheap second-hand nowadays :-) (as is old audio gear, Revox A77s or B77s can be had for
very reasonable prices
for example. I have a very nice Marantz amplifier which I got cheap, and a
Depends on what you call 'cheap' :-). Good valve audio is expensive over
here...
-tony
5075
days inactive
5076
days old
1 comments
2 participants
participants (2)
-
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
jonas＠otter.se