If you're shipping it yourself (and have a reasonably large car), I'd ship it in bits. You'll want (or should want) to inspect things before powering it up anyway. Remove tbe paper roll, the punched tape roll, the platten knob (just pulls out), the punch cover and the knob from the front (if it's a private line set, which I assume it will be if you're going to use it with a computer). Slide the front nameplate down and remove it. Pack those bits separately. Take out the cover screws. There are some thumbscrews at the back, some screws at the front under the nameplate and one at the rear corner of the reader cover. Forgetting the last one is a prime cause of broken covers! Lift off the main cover Remove the back from the stand (if it's on a stand) -- a couple of self-tapping screws. UNplug the cables that go to the typing unit. IIRC that's plugs 4 and 8 at the rear of the call control unit (but it can't hurt to unplug the lot), then remove the 2 wires to the rrader trip swtich on the rear right of the typing unit (2 push-on tags) and unclip that cable from the typing unit. At the rear right of the keyboard is the famous H-plate. Put a screwdriver in the slot, slide it to the left (against a spring in the typing unit), then free it from the keyboard linkage. Then slide it out Lift the typing unit up, starting at the read. Slide it out from under the keyboard (there's a trip lever for the tape feed mechanism). Remove the typing unit. Put that in your car separately. Diosconnect the cable from the reader PSU (in the top of the stand), unclip the PUS from the stand, pack it separately. Get somebody to steady the base pan and remove the screws holding it to the stand. Put the cover back on the base pan (leave the keyboard, reader, call control unit in the base pan), put in some of the screws to hold it. Then put that in your car Put the back on the stand again, put the stand in your car. At one time, I could do all that in under 5 minutes without even trying... -tony