12 May
2009
12 May
'09
4:57 p.m.
Does anyone know who sells sheets of uv-blocking labels for eproms?
Google keeps returning stuff about prom dresses.
--
David Griffith
dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu
A: Because it fouls the order in which people normally read text.
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A: Top-posting.
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5:07 p.m.
On May 12, 2009, at 5:03 PM, Al Kossow wrote:
David Griffith wrote:
It would seem to this observer that microfloppy write-protect tabs
would be harder to come by than.. well, EEPROM UV-blocking labels.
Does anyone know who sells sheets of uv-blocking
labels for eproms?
I use black write-protect tabs from 5" floppies. 
5:16 p.m.
C. Sullivan wrote:
On May 12, 2009, at 5:03 PM, Al Kossow wrote:
Well would not any non-transparent label work?
Ben.
David Griffith wrote:
It would seem to this observer that microfloppy write-protect tabs would
be harder to come by than.. well, EEPROM UV-blocking labels. Does anyone know who sells sheets of uv-blocking
labels for eproms?
I use black write-protect tabs from 5" floppies. 
5:53 p.m.
On 12 May 2009 at 17:31, Al Kossow wrote:
Adhesive is an issue. I think everyone has run into
paper labels
that have fallen off because the glue dried out.
You're right there! I've had the experience of matching up labels
with disks where said labels (usually laser printer address labels)
have fallen off. Instead of reprinting new labels, some Scotch 77
spray adhesive on the back of the old ones results in something a bit
more permanent.
--Chuck
5:38 p.m.
I use Avery 5430 plain white labels 1 3/4" x 3/4" (about 500 for $6)--
sufficient room for my illegible scrawls. If you were super-paranoid
about UV, though, you could pick up some silver foil mailing labels
(Avery 8986) 2 1/4" x 3/4" and snip them in half. But they're $13
for 300 labels, which isn't much of a deal.
I'm sure your local office stationer's will have more suggestions...
For those DIY-ers, spray some Scotch 77 adhesive on the barrier of
your choice and stick it on...
--Chuck
5:46 p.m.
--- On Tue, 5/12/09, Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
For those DIY-ers, spray some Scotch 77 adhesive on
the
barrier of
your choice and stick it on...
Hehe. You could get some of that window tinting film for cars, and "stickify" it
in this manner...
If you're really paranoid, just spray-paint the top of the chip with a couple coats of
Krylon flat black. That oughta do it. :)
-Ian
6:04 p.m.
On 12 May 2009 at 17:46, Mr Ian Primus wrote:
Hehe. You could get some of that window tinting film
for cars, and
"stickify" it in this manner...
How aboiut some of that Mactac self-adhesive mylar film used to
protect the undersides of offroad vehicles?
If you're really paranoid, just spray-paint the
top of the chip with a
couple coats of Krylon flat black. That oughta do it. :)
Some red glyptal would probably work as well--or better yet, a blob
of Blackjack roofing cement...
--Chuck
13 May
13 May
5:20 a.m.
Chuck Guzis wrote:
A quick blast of angle grinder to the glass window will probably work wonders,
too.
If you're
really paranoid, just spray-paint the top of the chip with a
couple coats of Krylon flat black. That oughta do it. :)
Some red glyptal would probably work as well--or better yet, a blob
of Blackjack roofing cement... 
6:33 a.m.
----------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 07:20:16 -0500
From: jules.richardson99 at gmail.com
To:
Subject: Re: anti-uv eprom labels
Chuck Guzis wrote:
A quick blast of angle grinder to the glass window will probably work wonders,
too.
Hi
Most any direct electrical arc will erase them quickly.
Dwight
_________________________________________________________________
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If
you're really paranoid, just spray-paint the top of the chip with a
couple coats of Krylon flat black. That oughta do it. :)
Some red glyptal would probably work as well--or better yet, a blob
of Blackjack roofing cement...
5:40 p.m.
----------------------------------------
From: ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk
Subject: Re: anti-uv eprom labels
To: cctalk at classiccmp.org
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 19:15:33 +0100
Good point though.
Dwight
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Hotmail? has ever-growing storage! Don?t worry about storage limits.
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Hi
Most any direct electrical arc will erase them quickly.
Particularly if applied to the pins :-) (Sorry, couldn't resist)
-tony
12 May
12 May
9:05 p.m.
Hi
First to consider is that to erase them under
room light would take years.
Next, even white paper looks black at UV frequencies.
If you don't think so, place a white label over
the window and use your eraser light. Check it
as often as you feel like.
If it erased in a month, that would be like 100's of
years in direct sun light.
Dwight
----------------------------------------
From: cclist at sydex.com
To: cctalk at classiccmp.org
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 17:38:01 -0700
Subject: Re: anti-uv eprom labels
I use Avery 5430 plain white labels 1 3/4" x 3/4" (about 500 for $6)--
sufficient room for my illegible scrawls. If you were super-paranoid
about UV, though, you could pick up some silver foil mailing labels
(Avery 8986) 2 1/4" x 3/4" and snip them in half. But they're $13
for 300 labels, which isn't much of a deal.
I'm sure your local office stationer's will have more suggestions...
For those DIY-ers, spray some Scotch 77 adhesive on the barrier of
your choice and stick it on...
--Chuck
_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail?.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutor…
9:12 p.m.
To be an AUTHENTIC restoration,
doesn't it have to be a glue that dries up
and the label falls off?
9:51 p.m.
First to consider is that to erase them under
room light would take years.
Mi first thought as well. In my opinion, *clear*
scotch tape would do the job :-)
AFAIK the windows are made of a special quartz glass that can be passed by the short
wavelength UV
needed to erase the EPROM. A normal window pane already doesn't let the short wave
stuff through.
Would be too bad: the mercury in mercury lamps emits most of its light in the short UV
spectrum. But
luckily, everything of it that is not converted at the fluorescent layer is blocked by the
glass
tube. The "inner lamp" (aka the best, fastest, and cheapest EPROM eraser) of a
high-pressure mercury
lamp is made of quartz as well, letting the hard UV through to the fluorescent outer
bulb.
Having the short wave UV passing glass would dramatically rise the skin cancer rate, I
suspect.
Best wishes,
Philipp
--
http://www.hachti.de
13 May
13 May
3:08 a.m.
On Tue, 2009-05-12 at 21:05 -0700, dwight elvey wrote:
Hi
First to consider is that to erase them under
room light would take years.
I've left EPROMs outside on a bright sunny day to erase. It didn't
work. I left them out all week, and they still read perfectly. So, in
the interests of experiment, I nuked them in the eraser for five minutes
at a time, reading them off after every blast. They took 20 minutes
before they started to "read wrong", and were fully erased in half an
hour - pretty much what I'd expect.
Okay, so this far north (I'm south of toresbe but probably further north
than most people on here) the sun isn't that strong, but it looks to me
like a week of direct summer sunshine had no effect at all on the
EPROMs.
Gordon
12 May
12 May
5:03 p.m.
On Tue, 12 May 2009 16:57:50 -0700 (PDT), David Griffith wrote:
uv-blocking labels for eproms
http://www.hamelco.com/eprom.htm
The other Bob
5:41 p.m.
--- On Tue, 5/12/09, David Griffith <dgriffi at cs.csubak.edu> wrote:
Does anyone know who sells sheets of uv-blocking
labels for
eproms? Google keeps returning stuff about prom dresses.
3M makes some UV blocking labels - they come in a roll, and you have to cut them to size
yourself. As a side note, this stuff also is an excellent insulator, and is wonderful for
covering bare wire joints.
I think they call it "Electrical Tape" or something. <grin>
I tend to use whatever adhesive labels are handy. I used to use write protect tabs for
floppy disks... but now those are hard to come by. Actually, now I've been using just
regular address labels, and I cut a piece to fit on the EPROM. I also use the same labels,
cut to similar size, as floppy disk write protect tabs!
-Ian
7:07 p.m.
On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 04:57:50PM -0700, David Griffith wrote:
Does anyone know who sells sheets of uv-blocking labels for eproms?
Google keeps returning stuff about prom dresses.
Hmm, there is this self adhesive aluminium foil tape that is sold for
purposes like fixing up ducts and such. It is most definitely not
transparent for UV, carries its own adhesive and is reasonably cheap
(first hit on Google: Maplin, sells a 45 m roll for around 8 USD).
Regards,
Alex.
--
"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and
looks like work." -- Thomas A. Edison
13 May
13 May
11:05 a.m.
Does anyone know who sells sheets of uv-blocking labels for eproms?
I normally use the foil write-enable tabs for 8" floppies (on the grounds
they're the right size and I have plenty of them). I may stick a paper
label over that if I need to label the EPROM in some way.
Actually, just about anything will do. Unless you're going to be leaving
this board out in the sun all day, it's not going to get much UV light on
it. So a paper label on its own should be easily enough.
I think the EPROM pacakage was made upside-down :-). If the quartz window
had been on the bottom, it would have been effecrtively covered when the
EPROM was fitted into a socket. It would have been easy to put the EPROMs
in an eraser with the pins towareds the UV source.
Of course you then couldn't have erased the EPROMs when they were fitted
to the PCB, but very few boards allowed you to program the EPROMs without
removing them, so this would be no problem [1].
[1] Yes, I do know the DEC Omnibus EPROM module that has a bank of 1702As
on it, which are connected to the rest of the logic by edge fingers on
the top edge of the PCB with plug-on jumper blocks. Apprenetly you
connected special cables between those top connectors and a 1702A
programmer to program the soldered-in 1702s. I am not sure why they did
this, I think turned-pin sockets would have been cheaper and as reliable.
-tony
11:50 a.m.
On 13 May 2009 at 19:05, Tony Duell wrote:
Actually, just about anything will do. Unless
you're going to be
leaving this board out in the sun all day, it's not going to get much
UV light on it. So a paper label on its own should be easily enough.
Anything, including nothing. I have eproms that were last programmed
20+ years ago with no label covering the window and exposed to
fluorescent room lighting and the contents are just fine. There is
probably some energy threshold that photons must exceed to effect
erasure. Mostly, I use labels to identify contents.
I like the idea of an upside-down eprom, Tony. Too bad it's about 4
decades too late!
--Chuck
P.S. Does anyone have any updates to the software for the EZ-EP
parallel port programmer? I've run into some Winbond fash chips that
the programmer doesn't handle correctly--even though it correctly
identifies them.
2:13 p.m.
David Griffith wrote:
Does anyone know who sells sheets of uv-blocking
labels for eproms?
Google keeps returning stuff about prom dresses.
Farnell still sell them -- a quick search for "eprom label" on
http://uk.farnell.com/ lists a couple of different sizes, manufactured by
Tyco. Part numbers are:
463802 12100 5.1 x 16.5mm
463814 12101 12.7 x 25.4mm
463826 12102 12.7 x 25.4mm
463838 12103 12.7 x 25.4mm
The first two are "permanent polyester", third is "removable UV opaque
polyester", last one is "metallised polyester". 500 labels per pack, and
they
appear to be intended for tractor-feed dot-matrix printers and devices of that
sort.
Though to be fair I'd probably just buy a P-touch printer and a couple of
rolls of labels. The 12mm "TZ" label tapes and PT-10xx series printers can be
had quite cheaply, and should do a good enough job. If you're feeling
pessimistic, buy the metallic label tapes, but expect to pay through the nose
for them.
--
Phil.
classiccmp at philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/
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