15 Sep
2000
15 Sep
'00
1:04 p.m.
To: classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: Halon dumps: a data point
That depends upon whether or not Algore is elected
president. If he's
The alternates scare me more.
I know what you're thinking. Linux, FreeBSD,
NetBSD, etc. probably
won't stoop to this level, but, do they count enough for manufacturers
to still keep producing hardware for them if Microsoft, and even
manufacturers of commercial UNICES, etc. begin taking that approach
And crazies like me will be running PX-8s with solidstate disks made
from all that huge and very cheap ram out there.
and electricity use is rationed, and those of us here
in the states
can't get enough gasoline or natural gas to power a generator, what
good will our collections of power-hungry real computers over here do
Any my CPM system running on solar/battery will run fine.
Such a dark world your in. Me, I'll keep trucking, I did all those
years before the so called great boom I'm still waiting to ride.
I made it through the '73 oil embargo, and the three after that
too.
If you so doom and gloom try this... WE aka BELL bought vaxen
that ran off 48V... Always wanted one of those BA213s. the
Americas cup racer america carried one of those when PCeees
were still useless. Now are there endless hacking possibilities
or what? How about a 24x365 system that runs off hydro,or maybe
wind... sure it's not going to one of those power nasty 733s but
a laptop no problem.
What may be missed is the internet is about who has info
and what it may cost when it gets hard to find.
Allison
16 Sep
16 Sep
1:25 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
If you so doom and gloom try this... WE aka BELL bought
vaxen
that ran off 48V... Always wanted one of those BA213s. the
I have some 48-57 vdc input, otherwise PC normal output power supplies for
about $5 each. Ask now if anybody wants some, basically I "think" new units
from Computer Products for Newbridge telecomm stuff,
but I have eight cases
of them and I am getting sick of the space they use. Location
socal,
shipping extra.
7:06 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
Hello Mike
On 16-Sep-00, you wrote:
I'm interested if they are ATX . . .
Now I know why my phone calls cost so much.
Regards
--
Gary Hildebrand
Box 6184
St. Joseph, MO 64506-0184
816-662-2612
or
ghldbrd(a)ccp.com
If you so doom
and gloom try this... WE aka BELL bought vaxen
that ran off 48V... Always wanted one of those BA213s. the
I have some 48-57 vdc input, otherwise PC normal output power supplies for
about $5 each. 
10 Oct
10 Oct
12:09 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
On Sat, Sep 16, 2000 at 05:25:23AM -0800, Mike Ford wrote:
I have some 48-57 vdc input, otherwise PC normal
output power supplies for
about $5 each. Ask now if anybody wants some, basically I "think" new units
What I could really use is a couple of 12V input supplies. I want to
put a PC in the car and also run a couple of servers from a battery/
solar panel system. I know they are available new for $120ish if memory
serves but they shouldn't have to cost so much.
--
_______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD ecloud(a)bigfoot.com
(_ | |_) http://www.bigfoot.com/~ecloud kb7pwd(a)kb7pwd.ampr.org
__) | | \________________________________________________________________
Free long distance at http://www.bigredwire.com/me/RefTrack?id=USA063420
12:54 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
Why not buy a "dead" UPS that can over the wattage of your system and
install a 12V in plug on the back. Most of these use a 12V DC input and
provide acceptable power on the output. Its cheaper than simply buying a
12V -> 120V inverter @600Watts or so.
--Chuck
"Shawn T. Rutledge" wrote:
On Sat, Sep 16, 2000 at 05:25:23AM -0800, Mike Ford wrote:
I have some 48-57 vdc input, otherwise PC normal
output power supplies for
about $5 each. Ask now if anybody wants some, basically I "think" new units
What I could really use is a couple of 12V input supplies. I want to
put a PC in the car and also run a couple of servers from a battery/
solar panel system. I know they are available new for $120ish if memory
serves but they shouldn't have to cost so much.
--
_______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD ecloud(a)bigfoot.com
(_ | |_) http://www.bigfoot.com/~ecloud kb7pwd(a)kb7pwd.ampr.org
__) | | \________________________________________________________________
Free long distance at http://www.bigredwire.com/me/RefTrack?id=USA063420
2:30 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
On Tue, Oct 10, 2000 at 05:54:49PM -0700, Chuck McManis wrote:
Why not buy a "dead" UPS that can over the
wattage of your system and
install a 12V in plug on the back. Most of these use a 12V DC input and
provide acceptable power on the output. Its cheaper than simply buying a
12V -> 120V inverter @600Watts or so.
Because it's grossly inefficient. Why convert from 12V to 120V AC and
then back to 12V, 5V, etc... they design some really efficient DC-DC
converters for laptops (to convert battery voltage to 5V) so it should
be possible (cheaply) for desktops also.
--
_______ Shawn T. Rutledge / KB7PWD ecloud(a)bigfoot.com
(_ | |_) http://www.bigfoot.com/~ecloud kb7pwd(a)kb7pwd.ampr.org
__) | | \________________________________________________________________
Free long distance at http://www.bigredwire.com/me/RefTrack?id=USA063420
12 Oct
12 Oct
2:57 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
At 05:54 PM 10/10/00 -0700, Chuck McManis wrote:
Why not buy a "dead" UPS that can over the
wattage of your system and
install a 12V in plug on the back. Most of these use a 12V DC input and
provide acceptable power on the output. Its cheaper than simply buying a
12V -> 120V inverter @600Watts or so.
At 07:30 PM 10/10/00 -0700, Shawn T.
Rutledge wrote:
Because it's grossly inefficient. Why convert from
12V to 120V AC and
then back to 12V, 5V, etc... they design some really efficient DC-DC
converters for laptops (to convert battery voltage to 5V) so it should
be possible (cheaply) for desktops also.
Not only have I wondered about the most efficient way to
power a PC inside a car, but other devices... a few months
back I was looking for a 12 volt to 6 volt converter to
power a Sony GV-9 video deck in the car, to no avail.
All the units I found were too low in amps-out. I avoided
the 12v -> 120v -> wall wart solution as too gross and inefficient,
but I guess it would work.
- John
3:43 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
At 07:30 PM 10/10/00 -0700, Shawn T. Rutledge wrote:
>Because it's grossly inefficient. Why convert from 12V to 120V AC and
>then back to 12V, 5V, etc... they design some really efficient DC-DC
>converters for laptops (to convert battery voltage to 5V) so it should
>be possible (cheaply) for desktops also.
The worst problem about running power directly from the car's supply is
that it's not a clean, steady stream of juice. Computers run best on clean
power, and a car's power is anything but. Hence, the deal of being grossly
inefficient in changing 12V-->120V-->12/5V is true, but if you're using an
inverter + UPS or some such, you get the benefit of the cleaning up of that
power supply.
Now, granted, with all my electronics around my apartment (25-30 computers
+ audio + phone), no doubt my power is less than clean, not to say anything
about transmission rates for my ethernet or the cancer I'm getting from the
EMF radiation. :)
Tarsi
210
4:54 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
Tarsi wrote:
The worst problem about running power directly from
the car's supply is
that it's not a clean, steady stream of juice. Computers run best on clean
power, and a car's power is anything but. Hence, the deal of being grossly
inefficient in changing 12V-->120V-->12/5V is true, but if you're using an
inverter + UPS or some such, you get the benefit of the cleaning up of that
power supply.
That's an understatement; voltage can fluctuate
between 8 and 15V as different subsystems in the car
are turned on; then there are spikes in excess of 100V
induced by different systems; and then, if your battery
contacts are less than perfect you can have 30VAC, rectified
(or not, if the rectifiers fail in a particularly nasty
mode!) from the alternator.
I have some experience using electronics in cars, having
worked in control systems for engines, as well as active suspension
systems and active four-wheel steering, not to mention my HEV
experience. Working with a 20KW, 380VAC alternator in a vehicle
is interesting. And it is weird when you see
that the throttle that you're adjusting by hand is linearly
related to the ~400VAC readings from the alternator :-) .
--
Carlos Murillo-Sanchez email: cem14(a)cornell.edu
428 Phillips Hall, Electrical Engineering Department
Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853
5:27 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
The worst
problem about running power directly from the car's supply is
that it's not a clean, steady stream of juice. Computers run best on clean
power, and a car's power is anything but. Hence, the deal of being grossly
That's an understatement; voltage can fluctuate
between 8 and 15V as different subsystems in the car
are turned on; then there are spikes in excess of 100V
induced by different systems; and then, if your battery
contacts are less than perfect you can have 30VAC, rectified
(or not, if the rectifiers fail in a particularly nasty
mode!) from the alternator.
6:16 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
"Fred Cisin (XenoSoft)" wrote:
No, my point is that the 12V system in a car is already nasty
stuff and that there are failure modes in parts of the car's
electrical system, such as the battery terminals or alternator
rectifiers, that can lead to _much_ nastier behavior.
That's an
understatement; voltage can fluctuate
between 8 and 15V as different subsystems in the car
are turned on; then there are spikes in excess of 100V
induced by different systems; and then, if your battery
contacts are less than perfect you can have 30VAC, rectified
(or not, if the rectifiers fail in a particularly nasty
mode!) from the alternator.
Yes, but that AC (sometimes quite a bit higher than 30V (220v?)) is THREE
PHASE! What kind of computer were you planning to run? Adding major mass of batteries can sink much of the
variation.
Again, until the terminals corrode.
Power CAN be cleaned up.
Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin(a)xenosoft.com
Exactly. In a car, it _HAS_ to be cleaned up if you want
to power electronic devices.
--
Carlos Murillo-Sanchez email: cem14(a)cornell.edu
428 Phillips Hall, Electrical Engineering Department
Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853
6:21 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
On Thu, 12 Oct 2000, Fred Cisin (XenoSoft) wrote:
[running comptuers from an automobile]
Adding major mass of batteries can sink much of the
variation.
Power CAN be cleaned up.
It seems that the obvious solution is being overlooked. Modify the
radiator so that it has about a 2" to 3" hole in the middle (which
will require some welding so that the core doesn't leak. Add an
additional transmision-oil cooler, and a few other cooling accessories
to compensate for the slightly diminished cooling capacity of the
radiator. Now, if necessary, remove a similar sized area from the
grill, etc. Having done that, you can add an extension to the
crankshaft (you'll probably need a new, custom, harmonic balancer as
well) that can be attached to a heavy-duty generator... just duct-tape
it to the roof when not in use. There, now you can power anything
from a C64 to a large minicomputer from your car... of
course, if you
want to use it while driving, you'll need to weld the generator
to the
front end of the car (so you'd better have a heavy, solid, frame) and
duct-tape the computer to the roof. I recon one could easily run a 6'
rack of PDP-11 equipment this way during long highway drives. You
might want to put reflectors on the generator if you do this and plan
to drive at night.
--
Copyright (C) 2000 R. D. Davis "The best way to gain a true understanding of
All Rights Reserved Wile E. Coyote on the Roadrunner cartoons is to
rdd(a)perqlogic.com 410-744-4900 fly, head-first, off a horse into something like
http://www.perqlogic.com/rdd a fence or a tree; trust me, this works." --RDD
6:22 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
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11:33 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
On Thu, 12 Oct 2000, Tony Duell wrote:
> On Thu, 12 Oct 2000, Fred Cisin (XenoSoft)
wrote:
> [running comptuers from an automobile]
> > Adding major mass of batteries can sink much of the variation.
> > Power CAN be cleaned up.
THAT part was mine. But the discussion of modifying the front end to
bring out a drive shaft was from Mr. Davis:
> It seems that the obvious solution is being
overlooked. Modify the
> radiator so that it has about a 2" to 3" hole in the middle (which
Then, both Tony and I pointed out the obvious solution of using the PTO:
Real vehicles [1] have assorted ways to drive
mechanical accesories, like
a power take off option that fits into the transfer gearbox. Now, add
that, add a sensibly-sized generator, and have a proper in-car computer.
[1] do I have to say 'Land Rover' :-)
REAL vehicle/Land Rover is redundant. Surely there can't be anyone who
doesn't already know that. But most of us drive the automotive equivalent
of a Windoze box. I wrote the book on Honda car repair [literally], but
I'm currently driving a 4WD Toyota van. I sometimes miss my old Jeep
FC170 (Forward Control, front is like a van), that had a real PTO, a real
transfer case, a real overdrive; but not the right shift linkage, so
there were 4 levers to move when shifting (16 forward speeds, 4 reverse).
More seriously (but only slightly more seriously), why
not add a second
alternator next to the standard one (there's probably enoug room to
kludge something in and run an extra drive belt to a pulley piggy-backed
onto the existing one). Use that to charge a second battery (which
needn't be that large). Yes, you've still got the spikes from the
alternator to worry about, but at least you don't have the electical
spikes put there by the ignition system, assorted motors, etc.
Allison makes a good point:
if you tap the power both before AND after the diodes, then you have three
phase AC, AND DC.
Also, change out the decades old spark plugs and plug wires - those can
create a lot of RF? noise.
--
Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin(a)xenosoft.com
13 Oct
13 Oct
5:32 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
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14 Oct
14 Oct
3:12 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
Perhaps a nice FX-4D?
On Fri, 13 Oct 2000, Tony Duell wrote:
M. K. Peirce
Rhode Island Computer Museum, Inc.
215 Shady Lea Road,
North Kingstown, RI 02852
"Casta est qui nemo rogavit."
- Ovid
Also, change
out the decades old spark plugs and plug wires - those can
create a lot of RF? noise.
Or get a compression-ignition (Diesel) engine. Those things (particularly
the older ones with a mechanical injection pump) are electrically very
'quiet' .
-tony
12 Oct
12 Oct
11:56 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
On Thu, 12 Oct 2000, Tony Duell wrote:
Real vehicles [1] have assorted ways to drive
mechanical accesories, like
a power take off option that fits into the transfer gearbox. Now, add
that, add a sensibly-sized generator, and have a proper in-car computer.
[1] do I have to say 'Land Rover' :-)
More seriously (but only slightly more seriously), why not add a second
alternator next to the standard one (there's probably enoug room to
kludge something in and run an extra drive belt to a pulley piggy-backed
onto the existing one). Use that to charge a second battery (which
needn't be that large). Yes, you've still got the spikes from the
alternator to worry about, but at least you don't have the electical
spikes put there by the ignition system, assorted motors, etc.
I think I'd prefer a nice little diesel. FC's have more room in the back
for rack mounting, though. did they come uuith 2.5's or V-8's?
And, are PDP-11's positively earthed?
12:10 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
On Thu, 12 Oct 2000, Merle K. Peirce wrote:
I think I'd prefer a nice little diesel. FC's
have more room in the back
for rack mounting, though. did they come uuith 2.5's or V-8's?
My '59 Jeep FC170 had a small flathead 6. A lot of people swapped other
engines into them. It had a 9ft box, but was overall shorter than
shortbed pickups. The Dana 44? rear axle was very sturdy, but the
suspension and brakes weren't real happy with more than a ton of load.
And a ton to the rear of the rear axle would take the weight off of the
front.
--
Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin(a)xenosoft.com
12:15 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
On Thu, 12 Oct 2000, Fred Cisin (XenoSoft) wrote:
I as actually thinking of an LR FC...
On Thu, 12 Oct 2000, Merle K. Peirce wrote:
M. K. Peirce
Rhode Island Computer Museum, Inc.
215 Shady Lea Road,
North Kingstown, RI 02852
"Casta est qui nemo rogavit."
- Ovid
I think I'd prefer a nice little diesel.
FC's have more room in the back
for rack mounting, though. did they come uuith 2.5's or V-8's?
My '59 Jeep FC170 had a small flathead 6. A lot of people swapped other
engines into them. It had a 9ft box, but was overall shorter than
shortbed pickups. The Dana 44? rear axle was very sturdy, but the
suspension and brakes weren't real happy with more than a ton of load.
And a ton to the rear of the rear axle would take the weight off of the
front.
--
Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin(a)xenosoft.com
13 Oct
13 Oct
5:35 a.m.
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12 Oct
12 Oct
8:56 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
CLOSE. But, ... Remove the diodes completely from an alternator. Select
pulleys for correct ratio, and simply maintain a steady engine speed to
provide 3600 RPM at the alternator shaft. Now you have 60Hz 3 phase
power. Adjust the voltage, and run minis and mainframes.
You'll need to drive where there is little traffic to maintain that
constant engine speed.
English hobbyists may need to adjust for machines that don't like 60Hz.
And running a mini in a mini might be a bit cramped, and not allow enough
room for a proper raised floor.
BTW, use of "Dual terminal" batteries helps a little; when the terminals
that connect the "engine" to the battery corrode, your "accessory"
device
is then connected to the battery only, as opposed to being connected to
the "engine" only.
It is also possible (and has been done!) to isolate the auxiliary
batter(ies), and switch between multiple batteries, so that your
"accessory" device is never connected to any part of the vehicle other
than an isolated battery, while another battery is being
charged. Although I would expect that the switch over,
when the current battery is low, would certainly be noisy.
On Thu, 12 Oct 2000, R. D. Davis wrote:
It seems that the obvious solution is being
overlooked. Modify the
radiator so that it has about a 2" to 3" hole in the middle (which
will require some welding so that the core doesn't leak. Add an
additional transmision-oil cooler, and a few other cooling accessories
to compensate for the slightly diminished cooling capacity of the
radiator. Now, if necessary, remove a similar sized area from the
grill, etc. Having done that, you can add an extension to the
crankshaft (you'll probably need a new, custom, harmonic balancer as
well) that can be attached to a heavy-duty generator... just duct-tape
it to the roof when not in use.
Well, a REAL classic already HAS that access for use with the starting
crank.
Or, if you have a classic 4x4, consider just running it all o
There, now you can power anything
from a C64 to a large minicomputer from your car... of
course, if you
want to use it while driving, you'll need to weld the generator to the
front end of the car (so you'd better have a heavy, solid, frame) and
duct-tape the computer to the roof. I recon one could easily run a 6'
rack of PDP-11 equipment this way during long highway drives. You
might want to put reflectors on the generator if you do this and plan
to drive at night.
For the sake of visibility, you might want to place all rack mount
equipment BEHIND, not in front of, the driver.
--
Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin(a)xenosoft.com
9:32 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
-> > > The worst problem about running power directly from the
-> car's supply is
-> > > that it's not a clean, steady stream of juice.
-> Computers run best on clean
-> > > power, and a car's power is anything but. Hence, the
-> deal of being grossly
-> > That's an understatement; voltage can fluctuate
-> > between 8 and 15V as different subsystems in the car
-> > are turned on; then there are spikes in excess of 100V
-> > induced by different systems; and then, if your battery
-> > contacts are less than perfect you can have 30VAC, rectified
-> > (or not, if the rectifiers fail in a particularly nasty
-> > mode!) from the alternator.
Reminds me of the time I took a 50 mile trip to my brothers in the Rover
88. When I arrived, it was dark, but all the lights on the Rover seemed
brighter than usual. Opening the hood, I noticed that the battery was
somewhat swollen. For some now forgotten stupid reason, I decided to
lift the positive terminal while the Rover was still running. Every
bulb on the Rover immediately exploded, although no other electrical
damage was done. Seems the alternator rectifiers went bad, which
damaged the regulator contacts. It was putting out well over 100 volts.
The battery was merely acting as a load, and when I removed the positive
terminal, POW!
Bill
9:45 a.m.
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noon
New subject: OT: alternators (was: 48v dc power
On Thu, 12 Oct 2000, Tony Duell wrote:
Getting back to alternators, am I the only person who
fault-finds them to
component level rather than getting an exchange unit. Last time the
alternator failed, I pulled it to bits, replaced the regulator/brushbox
assembly (the real fault was worn-out brushes but nobody would sell me
just the brush) and stuck it back together....
New alternator (no exchange on this model) = \pounds 196 + tax
New regulator/brushes = \pounds 15.00 (and I know the alternator is
assembled properly...)
I used to be able to get (from the local Honda dealer) brushes, bearings,
and diodes!
But he also had a big pile of vrtually new alternators that he sold me for
$5 each that had been changed out in favor of a different one for dealer
installed Civic air-conditioning.
Those worked fine as replacements, as well as being plentiful enough to be
able to play around and experiment. I burned one up trying to power a
circular saw.
--
Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin(a)xenosoft.com
1:40 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
-> > Reminds me of the time I took a 50 mile trip to my brothers in the
Rover
-> > 88. When I arrived, it was dark, but all the lights on the Rover
seemed
-> > brighter than usual. Opening the hood, I noticed that the battery
was
-> > somewhat swollen. For some now forgotten stupid reason, I decided
to
-> > lift the positive terminal while the Rover was still running.
Every
-> > bulb on the Rover immediately exploded, although no other
electrical
-> > damage was done. Seems the alternator rectifiers went bad, which
->
-> Since when has a _real_ Rover 80 (i.e. a P4) had an alternator? The
shop
-> manual (yes, I have it...) shows a DC generator and electromagnetic
-> regulator...
1972 IIRC US Land Rover. It had an alternator. BTW, on several
occasions I did use the hand crank to start it.
Decided to part with it when it put a rod through the block without
warning. Stuffed a rag in the hole to retain the oil and drive it home,
8 miles. Rich man's toy over here. Very expensive to maintain. Also
got tired of replacing those soft axle shafts.
Bill
3:02 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
My 1971 BMWR60/5 motorcycle has a similar system. If the Alternator
warning bulb dies, it disables the charging system AND can't warn you
because the bulb is fried.
Firstly, if the lamp burns out, it's likely that
the alternator won't
start (the residual magnetism is not normally enough to get it going). So
the battery isn't being charged. But as the lamp has burnt out, it
doesn't light to show this.
More seriously, if the field winding or brushes fail,
then there won't be
enough current flowing to turn the bulb on (the first couple of regulator
stages take almost no current). Even though the battery isn't charged.
I'm not sure what this lamp is supposed to show,
but the most common
alternator problem -- worn brushes -- doesn't turn it on. Don't ask how I
found this out...
Not to mention my alternator is very weak by design. Just enough to power
externals, ignition, and charging only to the point of maintainence. A
hard start never really is paid back by the alternator unless the ride is
more than 20 to 100 miles.
Jeff
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
Jeffrey S. Worley
President
Complete Computer Services, Inc.
30 Greenwood Rd.
Asheville, NC 28803
828-277-5959
THETechnoid(a)home.com
-----------------------------------------------------------
15 Oct
15 Oct
4:40 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
FYI,
I think the clock on your OS/2 machine is running slow
by a few days. You might want to check it.
Andy
12 Oct
12 Oct
5:57 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
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15 Oct
15 Oct
12:39 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
In <5.0.0.25.2.20001012104050.024619e0(a)binhost.com>om>, on 10/15/00
at 08:39 PM, Tarsi <tarsi(a)binhost.com> said:
Now, granted, with all my electronics around my
apartment (25-30
computers + audio + phone), no doubt my power is less than clean, not to
say anything about transmission rates for my ethernet or the cancer I'm
getting from the EMF radiation. :)
I heard that! I wonder what my machines are doing to the airwaves. I've
walked around the house with my shortwave receiver looking for freqs from
the khz range up to 30mhz. Not really a problem. Radio Moscow comes in
clear even if I have the whole house 'lit up'.
Does this mean I have clean systems or should I test some more?
Regards,
Jeff
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
Jeffrey S. Worley
President
Complete Computer Services, Inc.
30 Greenwood Rd.
Asheville, NC 28803
828-277-5959
THETechnoid(a)home.com
-----------------------------------------------------------
1:30 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
On Sun, 15 Oct 2000 THETechnoid(a)home.com wrote:
walked around the house with my shortwave receiver
looking for freqs from
the khz range up to 30mhz. Not really a problem. Radio Moscow comes in
clear even if I have the whole house 'lit up'.
It appears that you may have all of the covers on your systems... is
this correct? A while back, I left the cover off of a disk drive
enclosure, and it affected AM radio reception all over the house (the
system was in the basement). Some other systems, with open chasis, have
caused no apparent problems.
Out of curiosity, what's the furtherest distance anyone here has
noticed RFI from their systems (open or closed)?
--
Copyright (C) 2000 R. D. Davis "The best way to gain a true understanding of
All Rights Reserved Wile E. Coyote on the Roadrunner cartoons is to
rdd(a)perqlogic.com 410-744-4900 fly, head-first, off a horse into something like
http://www.perqlogic.com/rdd a fence or a tree; trust me, this works." --RDD
13 Oct
13 Oct
5:29 a.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
At 05:54 PM 10/10/00 -0700, Chuck McManis wrote:
You'd think there'd be lots of 12v > 6v car convertors around from
the time of the change from 6v to 12v automobile systems. Might try
a large wrecker or old car-parts supplier.
I have a couple of Tripp-lite 675W UPS. 4 sockets supply up to 6
amps, one of which I use with my main boxen. They use what
appears to me a car 12v lead-acid battery. One even has the old-
style lead terminal clamps, while the other has the screw into the
posts leads. I had always envisioned using the spare as a 120v.
supply in my (not-yet-acquired-but-soon) retirement camper or van
and simply bypassing the 120v charging cicuit on the UPS. Just
hooking the UPS battery into the vehicle charging system, thus
being able to use it for a computer, lites, TV, etc.
It can power up even when it is disconnected from the main or
during a power failure. And since I have one, it's inexpensive.
From this discussion I'm now concerned, and unable to discern
whether:
A. It isn't feasable for some strange reason.
B. There is a problem with auto power fluctuation or generation.
or
C. It isn't the optimum in-vehicle supply for nit-pickers. (just
ignore)
And of course many people power up their phones and laptops
using a cigarette-lighter socket. Am I missing something here ?
And no I'm not likely to travel with a mini rack.
ciao larry
Reply to:
lgwalker(a)look.ca
Why not buy a "dead" UPS that can over
the wattage of your system and
install a 12V in plug on the back. Most of these use a 12V DC input
and provide acceptable power on the output. Its cheaper than simply
buying a 12V -> 120V inverter @600Watts or so.
At 07:30 PM 10/10/00 -0700,
Shawn T. Rutledge wrote:
Because it's grossly inefficient. Why convert
from 12V to 120V AC
and then back to 12V, 5V, etc... they design some really efficient
DC-DC converters for laptops (to convert battery voltage to 5V) so it
should be possible (cheaply) for desktops also.
Not only have I wondered about the most efficient way to
power a PC inside a car, but other devices... a few months
back I was looking for a 12 volt to 6 volt converter to
power a Sony GV-9 video deck in the car, to no avail.
All the units I found were too low in amps-out. I avoided
the 12v -> 120v -> wall wart solution as too gross and inefficient,
but I guess it would work.
- John
10 Oct
10 Oct
9:15 p.m.
New subject: 48v dc power
On Sat, Sep 16, 2000 at 05:25:23AM -0800, Mike Ford
wrote:
Buy a HUGE old UPS, toss the batteries and use your own 12v source. Very
cheap at most junk emporii.
BTW I will have responses etc. to all on my power supplies mentioned above,
but between my son's homework and working with a PC for the first time, its
slow going. Images are on the PC, but over a MB each. I "know" what to do,
its just slow going.
I have some 48-57 vdc input, otherwise PC normal
output power supplies for
about $5 each. Ask now if anybody wants some, basically I "think" new units
What I could really use is a couple of 12V input supplies. I want to
put a PC in the car and also run a couple of servers from a battery/
solar panel system. I know they are available new for $120ish if memory
serves but they shouldn't have to cost so much.
8601
days inactive
8631
days old
31 comments
16 participants
participants (16)
-
ahm＠spies.com -
ajp166＠bellatlantic.net -
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
at258＠osfn.org -
cem14＠cornell.edu -
cisin＠xenosoft.com -
cmcmanis＠mcmanis.com -
ghldbrd＠ccp.com -
jfoust＠threedee.com -
lgwalker＠look.ca -
mikeford＠socal.rr.com -
rdd＠smart.net -
rutledge＠cx47646-a.phnx1.az.home.com -
tarsi＠binhost.com -
THETechnoid＠home.com -
whdawson＠mlynk.com