19 Jan
2009
19 Jan
'09
11:07 a.m.
On 19 Jan, 2009, at 05:10, cctalk-request at classiccmp.org wrote:
I always through they were rubber covered, but from the picture it
looks like I'm wrong. My 836 (like an 026) came without its drum and I
was told that all leased machines had their drums removed and the
customer got to dispose of the rest. Maybe it was rubbish. A couple of
them have come up on eBay in the last five years and both went for
silly money which to me means there are more keypunches than drums.
Roger Holmes.
The steel
parts are fine, but the rest has a white material over
most
of it. I'm not sure what sort of metal it is, looks a bit dark for
aluminum but the white material looks similar to aluminum oxidation.
What's a good approach to cleaning it up?
I seem to recall that the drums on 02x keypunches were brownish
(probably an anodized coating) and silver-metallic if you scratched
them or they wore through. I suspect that the drum is a magnesium-
aluminum die casting.
19 Jan
19 Jan
11:52 a.m.
On 19 Jan 2009 at 19:07, Roger Holmes wrote:
I always through they were rubber covered, but from
the picture it
looks like I'm wrong. My 836 (like an 026) came without its drum and I
was told that all leased machines had their drums removed and the
customer got to dispose of the rest. Maybe it was rubbish. A couple of
them have come up on eBay in the last five years and both went for
silly money which to me means there are more keypunches than drums.
Definitely not rubber covered, but with some sort of chemical or
electrolytic (i.e. not paint) finish. Whether it was simple
anodizing with a pigment, alodine, or something else, I don't know.
It would seem that whatever was used needs to be conductive, so
perhaps the brown color was intrinsic to the process.
Cheers,
Chuck
12:29 p.m.
On Mon, 19 Jan 2009, Chuck Guzis wrote:
Definitely not rubber covered, but with some sort of
chemical or
electrolytic (i.e. not paint) finish. Whether it was simple
anodizing with a pigment, alodine, or something else, I don't know.
It would seem that whatever was used needs to be conductive, so
perhaps the brown color was intrinsic to the process.
From what I see in the FE manuals, the starwheel sensing arms are used
to mechanically close contacts and not to complete a circuit through the
program drum itself. I always thought it was the latter, until I started
digging into the manuals.
I do have some aluminum oxidation remover which contains a small
concentration of phosporic acid which I might try (on an interior section
at first). A stainless steel brush might be a starting point to remove
the surface layer. I'll continue to collect suggestions for a bit.
Mike Loewen mloewen at cpumagic.scol.pa.us
Old Technology http://sturgeon.css.psu.edu/~mloewen/Oldtech/
1:38 p.m.
Mike Loewen wrote:
I do have some aluminum oxidation remover which
contains a small
concentration of phosporic acid which I might try (on an interior section
at first). A stainless steel brush might be a starting point to remove
the surface layer. I'll continue to collect suggestions for a bit.
If chemical treatment or polishing is inadequate, Scotchbrite pads with water
might be a next step. They can be surprisingly abrasive on soft metals (they
can remove thin plating or anodising), so one wants to be gentle at first, but
they are less aggressive than steel wool or wire-brushing. I haven't heard of
any issues with them leaving embedded particles, as has been mentioned as a
problem with steel wool.
They work well for objects with odd contours or crevices. (Also good when
building chassis for a final finish treatment on edges and some surfaces.)
20 Jan
20 Jan
5:53 a.m.
Brent Hilpert ????????:
If chemical treatment or polishing is inadequate, Scotchbrite pads with water
might be a next step. They can be surprisingly abrasive on soft metals (they
can remove thin plating or anodising), so one wants to be gentle at first, but
they are less aggressive than steel wool or wire-brushing. I haven't heard of
any issues with them leaving embedded particles, as has been mentioned as a
problem with steel wool.
There are several different grades of Scotch Brite. The baby blue
grade, which is the gentlest, might be preferable to the green, red,
gray or other grades. That's all I remember of the grades but if you
find a box of the stuff, the grades should be described on it. Perhaps
the info is also on the 3M website somewhere?
==
jd
When the weight of the paperwork equals the weight of the plane, the
plane will fly.
-- Donald Douglas
--
jd
21 Apr
21 Apr
2:35 a.m.
Brent Hilpert ????????:
If chemical treatment or polishing is inadequate, Scotchbrite pads with water
might be a next step. They can be surprisingly abrasive on soft metals (they
can remove thin plating or anodising), so one wants to be gentle at first, but
they are less aggressive than steel wool or wire-brushing. I haven't heard of
any issues with them leaving embedded particles, as has been mentioned as a
problem with steel wool.
There are several different grades of Scotch Brite. The baby blue
grade, which is the gentlest, might be preferable to the green, red,
gray or other grades. That's all I remember of the grades but if you
find a box of the stuff, the grades should be described on it. Perhaps
the info is also on the 3M website somewhere?
==
jd
When the weight of the paperwork equals the weight of the plane, the
plane will fly.
-- Donald Douglas
--
jd
10:21 a.m.
Peter Coghlan wrote:
Brent Hilpert ?*?????*?????**?**?*??*?:
( ? .. that thread was from months ago)
Yes, green is what I generally work with, gray is too coarse for the task.
I haven't used the red or blue, although it would be nice to try the blue
sometime, being finer.
If chemical treatment or polishing is inadequate, Scotchbrite pads with water
might be a next step. They can be surprisingly abrasive on soft metals (they
can remove thin plating or anodising), so one wants to be gentle at first, but
they are less aggressive than steel wool or wire-brushing. I haven't heard of
any issues with them leaving embedded particles, as has been mentioned as a
problem with steel wool.
There are several different grades of Scotch Brite. The baby blue
grade, which is the gentlest, might be preferable to the green, red,
gray or other grades. That's all I remember of the grades but if you
find a box of the stuff, the grades should be described on it. Perhaps
the info is also on the 3M website somewhere?
5491
days inactive
5583
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6 comments
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participants (6)
-
cclist＠sydex.com -
hilpert＠cs.ubc.ca -
mloewen＠cpumagic.scol.pa.us -
onymouse＠garlic.com -
Peter.Coghlan＠EUROKOM.IE -
roger.holmes＠microspot.co.uk