8 Apr
2005
8 Apr
'05
2:29 p.m.
I need to replace the battery in an item I have. It's the quartersized/style
one. The way it is attached to the board, is via a clip arrangement that
you'd swear makes the battery removable. However, it is in fact soldered or
spot welded into the clip somehow. As a result, I'd rather not just cut the
clip arms to replace the battery as I'd have trouble getting the new one in.
The only possibility I see is unsoldering the clip from the battery, but it
strikes me as a rather bad idea to put a soldering iron to a battery.
Suggestions?
Jay West
8 Apr
8 Apr
2:47 p.m.
On Fri, 2005-04-08 13:29:45 -0500, Jay West <jwest at classiccmp.org>
wrote in message <00aa01c53c68$f06d7de0$6400a8c0 at HPLAPTOP>:
The only possibility I see is unsoldering the clip
from the battery, but it
strikes me as a rather bad idea to put a soldering iron to a battery.
Suggestions?
It got there that way, so it goes away this way...
MfG, JBG
--
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3 p.m.
On Fri, 8 Apr 2005, Jay West wrote:
The only possibility I see is unsoldering the clip
from the battery, but it
strikes me as a rather bad idea to put a soldering iron to a battery.
Suggestions?
I had a synthesizer with a battery like that. I desoldered the battery
clip itself from the board, and replaced it with a plastic battery holder
that was designed for replaceable batteries. Should be dirt chip at any
electronic parts shop.
Mike Loewen mloewen at cpumagic.scol.pa.us
The Dixie Lion Jazz Band http://ripsaw.cac.psu.edu/dixie.html
The B9 Robot Builders Club B9-0014 http://ripsaw.cac.psu.edu/~mloewen/B9/
Old Technology http://ripsaw.cac.psu.edu/~mloewen/Oldtech/
3:08 p.m.
Jay,
these things are usually spot welded :(
However, if you take the whole assembly out, you can usually prize the clip
of the battery without damaging either (you could use a burr in one of those
Dremel type tools and grind the welds out.
As for replacing, you can solder them on, but it is difficult due to the
plating on the clip and the battery, a good flux is required, and often, you
need to remove the plating with emery paper before you can solder to the
parts.
Jim.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay West" <jwest at classiccmp.org>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 7:29 PM
Subject: battery desoldering advice
I need to replace the battery in an item I have.
It's the
quartersized/style
one. The way it is attached to the board, is via a
clip arrangement that
you'd swear makes the battery removable. However, it is in fact soldered
or
spot welded into the clip somehow. As a result,
I'd rather not just cut
the
clip arms to replace the battery as I'd have
trouble getting the new one
in.
The only possibility I see is unsoldering the clip from the battery, but
it
strikes me as a rather bad idea to put a soldering
iron to a battery.
Suggestions?
Jay West
6:52 p.m.
I need to replace the battery in an item I have. It's the quartersized/style
one. The way it is attached to the board, is via a clip arrangement that
you'd swear makes the battery removable. However, it is in fact soldered or
spot welded into the clip somehow. As a result, I'd rather not just cut the
clip arms to replace the battery as I'd have trouble getting the new one in.
This sounds like a PCB-mounted lithium cell. You buy the replacement with
the 'clip' spot-welded onto it (last one I got, I got from Farnell, I
guess there are Stateside syppliers too). You desolder the whole thing
from the PCB, then solder in the replacement.
The only possibility I see is unsoldering the clip from the battery, but it
strikes me as a rather bad idea to put a soldering iron to a battery.
I would not want to solder to a lithium cell. There is a very real risk
of it exploding.
-tony
9:13 p.m.
Jay,
Unsolder it. There shouldn't be any problems. Take the battery to a
battery rebuilder and they're make new tabs from strap stock or they will
pull the ones off the old battery cell and spot weld them to a new one.
Solder the new battery back onto the board and you're back in business.
I've done or had done a couple of dozen of them and never had a problem.
Three things will make all the differnece in the world (1) use a decent
temperature controlled solder iron (I use an inexpensive Weller) and (2)
use GOOD fresh solder. Throw away ANY from Radio Shack or any that is dull
looking (oxidized) (3) clean all the surfaces to be soldered till they are
clean and bright. I use 2% silver solder made by Kester and it works GREAT!
It also melts at about 500 degrees so you can turn your iron temperature
down and that helps prevent damaging circuit boards and components. If you
have trouble finding any let me know and I'll send you some.
Joe
At 01:29 PM 4/8/05 -0500, you wrote:
I need to replace the battery in an item I have.
It's the quartersized/style
one. The way it is attached to the board, is via a clip arrangement that
you'd swear makes the battery removable. However, it is in fact soldered or
spot welded into the clip somehow. As a result, I'd rather not just cut the
clip arms to replace the battery as I'd have trouble getting the new one in.
The only possibility I see is unsoldering the clip from the battery, but it
strikes me as a rather bad idea to put a soldering iron to a battery.
Suggestions?
Jay West
9 Apr
9 Apr
1:05 a.m.
Jay,
If your quick about it, soldering shouldn't hurt a battery. I've kept a
wet cloth handy while doing it, so I can keep the battery cool. We've
actually been talking about replacing nvram batteries in another
thread.... those all get soldered.
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA
Jay West wrote:
I need to replace the battery in an item I have.
It's the
quartersized/style one. The way it is attached to the board, is via a
clip arrangement that you'd swear makes the battery removable. However,
it is in fact soldered or spot welded into the clip somehow. As a
result, I'd rather not just cut the clip arms to replace the battery as
I'd have trouble getting the new one in.
The only possibility I see is unsoldering the clip from the battery, but
it strikes me as a rather bad idea to put a soldering iron to a battery.
Suggestions?
Jay West
1:25 a.m.
From: "C Fernandez" <fernande at internet1.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 12:05 AM
Jay,
If your quick about it, soldering shouldn't hurt a battery. I've kept a
wet cloth handy while doing it, so I can keep the battery cool. We've
actually been talking about replacing nvram batteries in another
thread.... those all get soldered.
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA
Jay West wrote:
> I need to replace the battery in an item I have. It's the
> quartersized/style one. The way it is attached to the board, is via a
> clip arrangement that you'd swear makes the battery removable. However,
> it is in fact soldered or spot welded into the clip somehow. As a result,
> I'd rather not just cut the clip arms to replace the battery as I'd have
> trouble getting the new one in.
>
> The only possibility I see is unsoldering the clip from the battery, but
> it strikes me as a rather bad idea to put a soldering iron to a battery.
> Suggestions?
>
> Jay West
I'm no expert but I've soldered directly onto batteries for years and never
had any problems.
I use a soldering station and run it up to 850 degrees (F).
I start by tinning the battery then using my finger rub spit on it to cool
it, people afraid to be crude can use a damp sponge.
After I've tinned all of the battery ends I then can quickly tack wires onto
them running the soldering station at arount 750 degrees (F).
I run the temperature up high to reduce time spent applying heat to the
battery.
Randy
www.s100-manuals.com
9:39 p.m.
On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 00:25:22 -0500
"Randy McLaughlin" <cctalk at randy482.com> wrote:
From: "C Fernandez" <fernande at
internet1.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 12:05 AM
I used to have some success using special silver solder. It wets much
better to the batteries. It is intended for non-electric use, though,
so the flux is very aggressive and must be cleaned completely off.
But soldering to sealed batteries, especially lithium batteries, isn't
that good an idea. It's better to locate a connector for them. There
are connectors available for most coin-type batteries.
Jay,
If your quick about it, soldering shouldn't hurt a battery. I've
kept a wet cloth handy while doing it, so I can keep the battery
cool. We've actually been talking about replacing nvram batteries
in another thread.... those all get soldered.
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA
Jay West wrote:
I'm no expert but I've soldered directly onto batteries for years and
never had any problems.
I use a soldering station and run it up to 850 degrees (F).
I start by tinning the battery then using my finger rub spit on it to
cool it, people afraid to be crude can use a damp sponge.
After I've tinned all of the battery ends I then can quickly tack
wires onto them running the soldering station at arount 750 degrees
(F).
I run the temperature up high to reduce time spent applying heat to
the battery.
I need to replace the battery in an item I have.
It's the
quartersized/style one. The way it is attached to the board, is via
a > clip
arrangement that you'd swear makes the battery removable.
However, > it is in fact soldered or spot welded into the clip
somehow. As a result, > I'd rather not just cut the clip arms to
replace the battery as I'd have > trouble getting the new one in.
The only possibility I see is unsoldering the clip from the
battery, but > it
strikes me as a rather bad idea to put a soldering
iron to a battery. > Suggestions?
>
> Jay West Randy
www.s100-manuals.com
10:38 p.m.
From: "Scott Stevens" <chenmel at earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 8:39 PM
I've never soldered to a lithium battery just NiCads, alkaline, etc.
For coin cells I agree sockets are better.
Randy
On Sat, 9 Apr 2005 00:25:22 -0500
"Randy McLaughlin" <cctalk at randy482.com> wrote:
<snip>
I'm no
expert but I've soldered directly onto batteries for years and
never had any problems.
I use a soldering station and run it up to 850 degrees (F).
I start by tinning the battery then using my finger rub spit on it to
cool it, people afraid to be crude can use a damp sponge.
After I've tinned all of the battery ends I then can quickly tack
wires onto them running the soldering station at arount 750 degrees
(F).
I run the temperature up high to reduce time spent applying heat to
the battery.
I used to have some success using special silver solder. It wets much
better to the batteries. It is intended for non-electric use, though,
so the flux is very aggressive and must be cleaned completely off.
But soldering to sealed batteries, especially lithium batteries, isn't
that good an idea. It's better to locate a connector for them. There
are connectors available for most coin-type batteries.
> Randy
> www.s100-manuals.com 
11 Apr
11 Apr
9:30 a.m.
>>>> "C" == C Fernandez <C>
writes:
C> Jay, If your quick about it, soldering shouldn't hurt a battery.
C> I've kept a wet cloth handy while doing it, so I can keep the
C> battery cool. We've actually been talking about replacing nvram
C> batteries in another thread.... those all get soldered.
I'm not sure I'd want to solder a battery.
However... a tip for soldering things with a lot of metal in them
(i.e., that suck up heat) when you don't want to overheat stuff.
Somewhat counterintuitively, you should use the *heaviest* iron you
can find. That will heat up the object quickly, giving the least time
for the heat to spread.
For example, my plain old Weller will solder PL-259 connectors, but
something heavier will do it better *and* with less damage to the
coax.
paul
7114
days inactive
7117
days old
10 comments
10 participants
participants (10)
-
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
cctalk＠randy482.com -
chenmel＠earthlink.net -
fernande＠internet1.net -
jbglaw＠lug-owl.de -
jim＠g1jbg.co.uk -
jwest＠classiccmp.org -
mloewen＠cpumagic.scol.pa.us -
pkoning＠equallogic.com -
rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com