From: ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk
The method
generally used on TV tubes of the period (and I don't see why
monitor tubes would be any different) was something like :
1) Over-run the heater. Typically a 6.3V heater would be run at 8V or 10V
2) Apply a fairly high (200V-ish) +ve voltage the control grid (wrt the
cathode), all other electrodes floating (no EHT applied either).
Hi
I've had better luck with 0 volts. If the tube has not been used
for a long time, it will be a little gassy. This tends to boil
Interesting... I've never seen this suggested anywhere, but most of the
designs for boosters assume you'll be trying to improve a CRT that's been
in use quite recently (e.g. a TV you've been watching), so presumably the
gas problem is no so serious.
off the cathode along with the other stuff. When
you have the voltage,
the electrons will hit the gass atoms and ionize them. These are
then slammed back into the cathode. One article I read stated
that the first stage should be done with 0 volts and then switch
to a + volts on the grid(s)+anode for the last part.
I've not tried this myself but the method makes sense. In the
first part, the getter has time to catch the outgassing. The
last part helps to freshen the surface.
I know that there are many articles that state to put the voltage
on from the beginning. I've also read in a only a couple of
articles that the outgassing from the initial stages can poison
the cathode enough to make the process useless. I recover
many old vacuum tubes for my old battery radios. I've had
good enough experience with the 0 volts and enough bad
experience with the voltage on the grid/plate that I use
the 0 volt.
Those valves are likely to be directly heated, right? I wonder if that
would make a difference.
Hi Tony
Yes, most of the tubes I look at are directly heated.
This might be different on how they act. There were several
diffent materials use for directly heated filaments and
some don't ever recover. I still try anyway. What have
I got to lose.
Dwight
AFAIK all TV and monitor CRTs are indirectly
heated (well, I think there was a Japanese colour CRT
that was directly
heated, but I doubt you'll find one of those. Yes it did have 6 heater pins).
-tony