Robert, Many thanks for relating your experience. No, I'm up in Seattle, not that far away but.... For remounting, I'm thinking about the approach used by the guy who did the seven-part miniseries on YouTube. Given your experience (i.e. since you've seen the tube "naked"), do you think it would be plausible to use a double-sided adhesive around the edges, outside the visible area when the tube is mounted? We have a PDP-12 (with a clean screen) and it looks to be the same size as the 9845's screen, so your observations should be relevant. Thanks again! -- Ian ________________________________________ From: Robert Garner [robgarn at mac.com] Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2011 11:55 PM To: cctech at classiccmp.org Cc: Ian King; Al Kossow; Robert Garner; Lyle Bickley; Rod Smallwood; ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk; Chuck Guzis Subject: Re: HP screen screen rot As an alternative to the hot wire approach, I placed my moldy PDP-12 CRT+faceplate into a tub of PROSOCO Dicone NC9 "silicone sealand & adhesive remover." After about a week, the silicone seal had separated and was easily removed. I'm not sure how best to remount the CRT with the glass faceplate and metal surrounding rim without reapplying a RTV/PVA layer and re-bonding it all with silicone again. - Robert p.s. If you're in the Bay Area: there's a gallon jug of leftover Dicone NC9 for the asking. On Oct 20, 2011, at 7:34 AM, cctech-request at classiccmp.org<mailto:cctech-request at classiccmp.org> wrote: Message: 25 Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 08:28:56 +0100 From: "Rod Smallwood" <rodsmallwood at btconnect.com<mailto:rodsmallwood at btconnect.com>> To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic Posts Only'" <cctech at classiccmp.org<mailto:cctech at classiccmp.org>> Subject: RE: HP screen screen rot Message-ID: <AA472F3C2B81454EAD4B734855D4D4EE at dorsetsweets.local<mailto:AA472F3C2B81454EAD4B734855D4D4EE at dorsetsweets.local>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have fixed a few Rainbow monitors suffering from screen mould. It may be crude but I just removed the outer glass by breaking it into parts and then peeled off the offending plastic layer. The tube then goes back into the case and you end up with a narrow gap between the bezel and the tube. If you are not used to working with glass and CRT's then this way is not for you Regards Rod Smallwood --- On Mon, 10/17/11, Al Kossow <aek at bitsavers.org<mailto:aek at bitsavers.org>> wrote: From: Al Kossow <aek at bitsavers.org<mailto:aek at bitsavers.org>> Subject: Re: HP screen screen rot To: cctalk at classiccmp.org<mailto:cctalk at classiccmp.org> Date: Monday, October 17, 2011, 8:33 PM On 10/17/11 5:06 PM, Ian King wrote: Hello all, Does anyone have specific experience with addressing this problem on this machine? The procedure is removal of the RTV between the safety glass and CRT separating the two by cutting through the RTV with a hot wire, then reattachment at the corners. There are some examples on the web.

I was referring to holding the faceplate on the CRT, not supporting the CRT= . I plan to replace the metal band, padding with e.g. strapping tape if ne= cessary. Does that make more sense? - Ian

It wworries me, I can tell you that. That metal band is fixed ot the glass, it's also deliverately very tight. Somehow it supports the screen glass during an implosion, protectggn the viewer. It's not just a mouting band for the CRT.

I was referring to holding the faceplate on the CRT, not supporting the CRT. I plan to replace the metal band, padding with e.g. strapping tape if necessary. Does that make more sense?