8 Oct
2004
8 Oct
'04
7:03 a.m.
In rummaging through classic computer stuff I haven't seen in a while, I
saw several things that are definitely a problem. What other things need
to be added to the list for collectors to watch out for?
* Leaky nicad batteries that will "eat" the circuit board traces
The early computers that come quickly to mind are the TRS-100, Lobo
Drives Max 80, NEC 8201A, 286 and later motherboards, and S-100
CompuWatch Clock/Calendar boards. Any others that should be added to
this list?
* Subterranean termites (eating manuals and other cardboard/paper
products)
Fortunately, they had only mostly started on the cardboard boxes, and
only damaged some of the manuals. I'm thinking that keeping the manuals
in ziplock bags might be a good idea for any manuals that need to be
packed away. This would also protect them from moisture if the boxes got
wet.
* Leaky storage areas leading to equipment and documentation being
ruined.
I've had quite a few books and manuals that had to be thrown away
(nothing really rare, hard to come by, or valuable) due to a leaky roof
where they were being stored.
7 Oct
7 Oct
11:34 p.m.
On Fri, 8 Oct 2004, Marvin Johnston wrote:
In rummaging through classic computer stuff I
haven't seen in a while, I
saw several things that are definitely a problem. What other things need
to be added to the list for collectors to watch out for?
* Leaky nicad batteries that will "eat" the circuit board traces
The early computers that come quickly to mind are the TRS-100, Lobo
Drives Max 80, NEC 8201A, 286 and later motherboards, and S-100
CompuWatch Clock/Calendar boards. Any others that should be added to
this list?
The Lisa is very susceptible to this issue.
* Subterranean termites (eating manuals and other
cardboard/paper
products)
Fortunately, they had only mostly started on the cardboard boxes, and
only damaged some of the manuals. I'm thinking that keeping the manuals
in ziplock bags might be a good idea for any manuals that need to be
packed away. This would also protect them from moisture if the boxes got
wet.
I had this same problem last year. They ate through some of my magazines,
including some early issues of Kilobaud Computing, which hurt :( I
hopefully had the problem fixed (I hope they got them all), but I have a
stack of boxes of magazines 12 wide and three deep and haven't had the
time to go snooping to make sure nothing is going on at the bottom layer.
Pests of any kind should be watched for, including rodents that will pee
all over your circuit boards like little bastard teenage vandals!
* Leaky storage areas leading to equipment and
documentation being
ruined.
I've had quite a few books and manuals that had to be thrown away
(nothing really rare, hard to come by, or valuable) due to a leaky roof
where they were being stored.
Also to worry about:
* Paper rot (paper documents that are crumbling due to acid in the paper)
* Bit rot (EPROMS or magnetic media that are nearing their theoretical
lifespan)
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
8 Oct
8 Oct
7:04 a.m.
Marvin Johnston wrote:
In rummaging through classic computer stuff I
haven't seen in a while, I
saw several things that are definitely a problem. What other things need
to be added to the list for collectors to watch out for?
How about no backups of floppy disks, they can be bad still in a unopened
box of software. I found this with a few old games I bought.
Also no backup of 'tape backup software'.
9 a.m.
On Fri, 8 Oct 2004, ben franchuk wrote:
How about no backups of floppy disks, they can be bad
still in a unopened
box of software. I found this with a few old games I bought.
if (/.*back.*up.*/) {
print "We should stop saying \"backing up\" and say
\"restoring\".\n";
print "Floppies and tapes might as well be Signetics WOMs after ";
print "a year or two or ten.\n";
print "Its not what we store today, but what we can read in 2050.\n";
}
Also no backup of 'tape backup software'.
D'OH!
See?
17 Oct
17 Oct
1:33 p.m.
ben franchuk wrote:
How about no backups of floppy disks, they can be bad
still in a unopened
box of software. I found this with a few old games I bought.
Were they high-density or low-density? I've *never* had a 5.25" DSDD disk go
bad on me, but several high-density disks have "faded"... I attribute this to
the much denser packing on HD disks.
I bought Flight Simulator for PC (1982) and it still works in my Model 5150...
--
Jim Leonard (trixter(a)oldskool.org) http://www.oldskool.org/
Want to help an ambitious games project? http://www.mobygames.com/
Or check out some trippy MindCandy at http://www.mindcandydvd.com/
8 Oct
8 Oct
7:14 a.m.
Canon object.stations 41's. Varta NiCd batteries start leaking.
James
Marvin Johnston wrote:
In rummaging through classic computer stuff I
haven't seen in a while, I
saw several things that are definitely a problem. What other things need
to be added to the list for collectors to watch out for?
* Leaky nicad batteries that will "eat" the circuit board traces
The early computers that come quickly to mind are the TRS-100, Lobo
Drives Max 80, NEC 8201A, 286 and later motherboards, and S-100
CompuWatch Clock/Calendar boards. Any others that should be added to
this list?
--
www.blackcube.org The Texas State Home for Wayward and Orphaned Computers
7:19 a.m.
Marvin Johnston wrote:
* Leaky nicad batteries that will "eat" the
circuit board traces
The early computers that come quickly to mind are the TRS-100, Lobo
Drives Max 80, NEC 8201A, 286 and later motherboards, and S-100
CompuWatch Clock/Calendar boards. Any others that should be added to
this list?
A lot of the elderly synthesizers I work on suffer from this. For some
reason, Polysixes seem to suffer from this particularly badly - maybe it
was that particular make of battery?
Gordon
7:39 a.m.
On Fri, 2004-10-08 at 12:03 -0700, Marvin Johnston wrote:
In rummaging through classic computer stuff I
haven't seen in a while, I
saw several things that are definitely a problem. What other things need
to be added to the list for collectors to watch out for?
Sunlight's a real killer for certain types of plastic and causes it to
change colour - if you must leave equipment in the sun for long periods,
at least make sure it gets the sun evenly :-)
Some plastics react badly with each other when left for extended periods
of time too and can stick together. Unfortunately there seems to be no
way of knowing which types (power cables and polystyrene don't seem to
do very well; we've also had an Amstrad PDA at the museum that had
welded itself into its protective wallet...)
Oh, watch out for rodents too. There's a TRS-80 at the museum which has
had half its keys eaten...
Be careful with laser-printed documentation in ring binders too; the
text has a habit of sticking to the underside of the binder's cover for
some reason - stick a blank sheet of paper in there to protect it.
* Leaky nicad batteries that will "eat" the
circuit board traces
The early computers that come quickly to mind are the TRS-100, Lobo
Drives Max 80, NEC 8201A, 286 and later motherboards, and S-100
CompuWatch Clock/Calendar boards. Any others that should be added to
this list?
Won't *any* batteries cause corrosion over time? E.g. anything in pocket
calculators etc.
8:03 a.m.
>>>> Won't *any* batteries cause
corrosion over time? E.g. anything in pocket
calculators etc.
I agree. Recently I went to use my Palm III, and it wouldn't turn on. So I
opened the battery cover to change them, and to my surprise, the dual AAAs were
badly melted.
Speaking of which... LOL, can someone suggest a way to CLEAN battery acid? Is
my PDA salvageable?
--- Jules Richardson <julesrichardsonuk(a)yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
On Fri, 2004-10-08 at 12:03 -0700, Marvin Johnston
wrote:
=====
Tell your friends about the Computer Collector E-mail Newsletter!
-- It's free and we'll never send spam or share your email address
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-- Mainframes to videogames, hardware and software, we cover it all
Visit the museums directory and read about past events
at our web site: http://news.computercollector.com
Contact us at news(a)computercollector.com
570 readers and counting!
In rummaging through classic computer stuff I
haven't seen in a while, I
saw several things that are definitely a problem. What other things need
to be added to the list for collectors to watch out for?
Sunlight's a real killer for certain types of plastic and causes it to
change colour - if you must leave equipment in the sun for long periods,
at least make sure it gets the sun evenly :-)
Some plastics react badly with each other when left for extended periods
of time too and can stick together. Unfortunately there seems to be no
way of knowing which types (power cables and polystyrene don't seem to
do very well; we've also had an Amstrad PDA at the museum that had
welded itself into its protective wallet...)
Oh, watch out for rodents too. There's a TRS-80 at the museum which has
had half its keys eaten...
Be careful with laser-printed documentation in ring binders too; the
text has a habit of sticking to the underside of the binder's cover for
some reason - stick a blank sheet of paper in there to protect it.
* Leaky nicad batteries that will "eat"
the circuit board traces
The early computers that come quickly to mind are the TRS-100, Lobo
Drives Max 80, NEC 8201A, 286 and later motherboards, and S-100
CompuWatch Clock/Calendar boards. Any others that should be added to
this list?
Won't *any* batteries cause corrosion over time? E.g. anything in pocket
calculators etc.
9:26 a.m.
On Fri, 8 Oct 2004, Computer Collector E-Mail Newsletter wrote:
Speaking of which... LOL, can someone suggest a way to
CLEAN battery acid? Is
my PDA salvageable?
When I used to operate DG Nova's, Linctapes and Silent 700's
on the decks of boats (25' work boats up to 400' mud boats)
things would occasionally get salt misted, mainly the Silent
700's (the DG+tape lived in a sealable fiberglas cabinet), I'd
disassemble the thing, put it in a big sink and scrub it with
soapy water and a very soft bristle brush, then compressed-air
dry, then let it dry overnight. Worked every time.
Assuming there are no power sources nearly all electronics is
water safe. LCDs I don't know about though, and things like
membrane switches, while their components are probanbly safe,
will trap water unless disassembled.
(Most electronic assembly processes use water-soluable fluxes and
such and often get a water bath. Other things to watch for are
trimpots. But if the device is dead, what have you got to lose?)
8:14 a.m.
Snip
Assuming there are no power sources nearly all
electronics is
water safe. LCDs I don't know about though, and things like
membrane switches, while their components are probanbly safe,
will trap water unless disassembled.
(Most electronic assembly processes use water-soluable fluxes and
such and often get a water bath. Other things to watch for are
trimpots. But if the device is dead, what have you got to lose?)
Is this what it is? Duller looking solder joints, dull dry circuit
boards with few rare water marks?
Well, what it is, this resoldering job is a bitch because of
no protective flux remaining or oxidizing during water soluable flux
removal made the plated brass gromments, component leads that stuck
out of the soldered joints unsolderable without razor scraping or
rubbing with scratchy eraser. I want old fashioned flux back on
those TV boards and left alone. This quality of solders better and
made resoldering MUCH easier down the road.
Grrrr, TV tech.
Cheers,
Wizard
12:27 p.m.
On Fri, 8 Oct 2004 jpero(a)sympatico.ca wrote:
I doubt it. You don't say what device you're talking about,
but a lot could have happened to it since it was new. The new
processes work just fine and don't cause the problems you're
talking about. Sounds like it was in a corrosive environment,
or maybe it was bad when new. Who knows!
(Most
electronic assembly processes use water-soluable fluxes and
such and often get a water bath. Other things to watch for are
trimpots. But if the device is dead, what have you got to lose?)
Is this what it is? Duller looking solder joints, dull dry circuit
boards with few rare water marks? 
9:53 a.m.
>>>> "Tom" == Tom Jennings
<tomj(a)wps.com> writes:
Tom> Assuming there are no power sources nearly all electronics is
Tom> water safe. LCDs I don't know about though, and things like
Tom> membrane switches, while their components are probanbly safe,
Tom> will trap water unless disassembled.
Indeed they will. LK201s will be utterly destroyed if you get them
wet, and I have found no way to disassemble them.
paul
10:57 a.m.
Indeed they will. LK201s will be utterly destroyed if
you get them
wet, and I have found no way to disassemble them.
Oh, LK201s are easy to take apart (Unclip all the keycaps, then cut off
the heat-stakes on the back and take it all apart). It's getting them
back together that's 'interesting' (there's not enough plastic left to
re-do the heat staking).
-tony
12:09 p.m.
On Oct 8, 2004, at 3:57 PM, Tony Duell wrote:
Could you break off what remains of the stake and replace it with a long
screw, 2 washers and a nut? (is there room underneath?)
Indeed they
will. LK201s will be utterly destroyed if you get them
wet, and I have found no way to disassemble them.
Oh, LK201s are easy to take apart (Unclip all the keycaps, then cut off
the heat-stakes on the back and take it all apart). It's getting them
back together that's 'interesting' (there's not enough plastic left to
re-do the heat staking).
-tony
12:32 p.m.
On Fri, 8 Oct 2004, Ron Hudson wrote:
> Oh, LK201s are easy to take apart (Unclip all the
keycaps, then cut off
> the heat-stakes on the back and take it all apart). It's getting them
> back together that's 'interesting' (there's not enough plastic left
to
> re-do the heat staking).
On Oct 8, 2004, at 3:57 PM, Tony Duell wrote:
Could you break off what remains of the stake and
replace it with a long
screw, 2 washers and a nut? (is there room underneath?)
You could try: put the PC board back over the tops of the stakes,
drill a hole where the post used to stick up, and use a tiny
sheet metal screw instead. I use a pin vise for things like this.
10 Oct
10 Oct
7:16 a.m.
Tom Jennings wrote:
On Fri, 8 Oct 2004, Ron Hudson wrote:
This works with some plastics, with differing levels of success:
Take a piece of plastic (like off the parts tree of a plastic model), and
stick it in a drill chuck. Spin it at a decent rate (trial and error), and
press it against the plastic. Friction will melt them together.
>Oh, LK201s are easy to take apart (Unclip all
the keycaps, then cut off
>the heat-stakes on the back and take it all apart). It's getting them
>back together that's 'interesting' (there's not enough plastic left
to
>re-do the heat staking).
>
>
On Oct 8, 2004, at 3:57 PM, Tony Duell wrote:
Could you break off what remains of the stake and
replace it with a long
screw, 2 washers and a nut? (is there room underneath?)
You could try: put the PC board back over the tops of the stakes,
drill a hole where the post used to stick up, and use a tiny
sheet metal screw instead. I use a pin vise for things like this.
8 Oct
8 Oct
1:49 p.m.
On Oct 8, 2004, at 3:57 PM, Tony Duell wrote:
Could you break off what remains of the stake and replace it with a long
screw, 2 washers and a nut? (is there room underneath?)
Not easily. The top part of the keyboard consists of a set of U-shaped
plastic chabeeles, the open face of which go agains the membrane
sandwich, the top face of which carry the keycaps. The heat-stake pins
are moulded as part of the sides of the channels. There isn't enough
thickness there to drill holes and fit screws.
-tony
Indeed
they will. LK201s will be utterly destroyed if you get them
wet, and I have found no way to disassemble them.
Oh, LK201s are easy to take apart (Unclip all the keycaps, then cut off
the heat-stakes on the back and take it all apart). It's getting them
back together that's 'interesting' (there's not enough plastic left to
re-do the heat staking).
-tony
10:54 a.m.
Speaking of which... LOL, can someone suggest a way to
CLEAN battery acid? Is
my PDA salvageable?
If these were 'alkaline' batteries, like Duracell, then the electrolyte,
not suprisingly, is alkaline, and you need an acid to clean it up and
neutralise it. Try a dilute solution of citric acid.
Of course, if PCB traces are corroded/open, you'll then have to fix those.
Another machine that suffeers -- baddly -- from battery corrosion is the
Whitechapel MG1. There are 5 AA NiCds on the power distribution PCB, if
they leak, they will corrode the connector between that PCB and the
mainboard, if not the mainboard itself.
-tony
2:31 p.m.
New subject: Black Death
Tony Duell wrote:
Another machine that suffeers -- baddly -- from
battery corrosion is the
Whitechapel MG1. There are 5 AA NiCds on the power distribution PCB, if
they leak, they will corrode the connector between that PCB and the
mainboard, if not the mainboard itself.
Has anyone ever come across the copper in the negative lead from a nicad
pack turning black and crumbly? It seems to happen from the battery
outwards, and progresses up the inside of the insulation. I've seen
this happen with radios, camera battery packs, "sun gun" battery packs
(portable movie lights) and RC models.
On a similar note, there are two nicad batteries in the instrument
cluster of certain older BMWs (3- and 5-series spring to mind). After
10-15 years, the batteries start to fail, and don't hold a charge. This
makes the service light start to come on all the time, although if you
reset it with the plug under the bonnet it goes out until the next time
you turn the ignition off. If it's not caught in time it will drop
corrosive (and conductive) gunk all over the circuit board with the
warning lights, giving rise to all manner of weird warning light
indications. BMW will relieve you of nearly 300 quid for a new
instrument cluster, or you can replace the nicads for next to nothing.
Gordon.
17 Oct
17 Oct
1:35 p.m.
Computer Collector E-Mail Newsletter wrote:
Speaking of which... LOL, can someone suggest a way to
CLEAN battery acid? Is
my PDA salvageable?
Normally I'd tell you to start getting out the vinegar and clean the crusty
battery acid off, but Palm III's are $40, new, on ebay. My Palm IIIxe ($300,
new) just died last week and I replaced it with a Sony Clie for $40, used.
--
Jim Leonard (trixter(a)oldskool.org) http://www.oldskool.org/
Want to help an ambitious games project? http://www.mobygames.com/
Or check out some trippy MindCandy at http://www.mindcandydvd.com/
8 Oct
8 Oct
9:21 a.m.
On Fri, 8 Oct 2004, Jules Richardson wrote:
Never store printed matter in horizontal stacks, store it
vertically. The crap on the bottom always seems to suffer
from something, I think even the most microscopic
channels
for air let moisture equalize, even if it takes years, it's
better than compressed. Besides you can't really see anything,
so piling and re-piling damages things.
Never never store anything on the floor! Raise it up at least
an inch. Concrete floors are POROUS, and usually have dirt under
them, and anywhere outside of desert regions will have moisture
below the concrete, which will wick it up, guarenteed. A cheap
solution is to lay 2x4's (or EU equiv) on the floor, and put boards
across them, leaving gaps for air circulation.
Leave space around things for air circulation. Moisture content
of the air changes seasonally everywhere, clay paper is a bit
hygroscopic, you want it to be able to dry out, albeit slowly.
I've not had a problem with rodentia here, yet anyways, but
there are a lot of pill bugs (so-called, little gray centipedes)
that seem to like dark moisture, they scurry at night. I think
they'd love to lve under a magazine laying on the concrete. They
don't climb.
Temperature extremes aren't good, but mainly they accellerate
the workings of moisture-related processes.
I'm not an expert, but I've got some stuff, and have
pawed through a lot of stuff untouched for decades, and the
bottom-of-the-pile is either utterly choice or a complete ruin,
depending on the environment. And much of the bottom-is-good
stuff I've seen is due to surplus hounds and kids not getting
access to ruin it.
My lab is an unheated converted garage, concrete floor, in Los
Angeles, though it's insulated, proper ventilation. Books are
stored on shelves, upright, and the lowest shelves (about 4"
from the floor) get low-value stuff only.
All electronic goodies are on metal shelves.
The LGP-21 is in the house.
Won't *any* batteries cause corrosion over time?
E.g. anything in pocket
calculators etc.
Batteries simply cannot be left in devices in storage, period,
nor of course removable media in drives.
The few things I own with internal batteries, that aren't
temporal PC hardware, I've moved the battery packs off the
PC boards and onto the chassis. I generally solder a stack of
NiCds together, wrap in fish paper, cable tie it to the chassis
somewhere inocuous, and run two-conductor ribbon cord to the
original location. I often get to then use AA instead of AAA
size, etc.
9 Oct
9 Oct
4:36 a.m.
On Fri, 8 Oct 2004, Jules Richardson wrote:
Be careful with laser-printed documentation in ring
binders too; the
text has a habit of sticking to the underside of the binder's cover for
some reason - stick a blank sheet of paper in there to protect it.
I'm sure by now this has been discussed extensively but it seems to me any
photocopied or laser printed page tends to stick to what is adjacent to
it, which is why manuals of this type should always be stored vertically.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
4:58 a.m.
On Sat, 9 Oct 2004, Vintage Computer Festival wrote:
But there is also a chemical reaction (from outgassing of plasticizer?)
that makes the toner stick to the cover of PVC binders much more than
to most other substances.
Be careful
with laser-printed documentation in ring binders too; the
text has a habit of sticking to the underside of the binder's cover for
some reason - stick a blank sheet of paper in there to protect it.
I'm sure by now this has been discussed extensively but it seems to me any
photocopied or laser printed page tends to stick to what is adjacent to
it, which is why manuals of this type should always be stored vertically.
6:52 a.m.
On Sat, 9 Oct 2004, Fred Cisin wrote:
On Sat, 9 Oct 2004, Vintage Computer Festival wrote:
But there is also a chemical reaction (from outgassing of plasticizer?)
that makes the toner stick to the cover of PVC binders much more than
to most other substances.
I've had pages stick to other pages, but perhaps this was the print on
each page sticking to the print on the other?
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
Be
careful with laser-printed documentation in ring binders too; the
text has a habit of sticking to the underside of the binder's cover for
some reason - stick a blank sheet of paper in there to protect it.
I'm sure by now this has been discussed extensively but it seems to me any
photocopied or laser printed page tends to stick to what is adjacent to
it, which is why manuals of this type should always be stored vertically.
7:06 a.m.
On Sat, 9 Oct 2004, Vintage Computer Festival wrote:
THey will stick to each other, but nowhere near as much as they stick to
the plastic binder. Look at the inside front cover of some of those beige
easel binders that you got from me.
But there is
also a chemical reaction (from outgassing of plasticizer?)
that makes the toner stick to the cover of PVC binders much more than
to most other substances.
I've had pages stick to other pages, but perhaps
this was the print on
each page sticking to the print on the other?
4:33 p.m.
On Sat, 9 Oct 2004, Fred Cisin wrote:
On Sat, 9 Oct 2004, Vintage Computer Festival wrote:
THey will stick to each other, but nowhere near as much as they stick to
the plastic binder. Look at the inside front cover of some of those beige
easel binders that you got from me.
Oh, I know this. I've got plenty of manuals that are a-stickin' to their
binder covers since they haven't been stored properly (currently being
remedied with the latest block of shelving going up). I just wanted to
let everyone know that pages also can stick to each other, and so
therefore you should want to store your manuals vertically.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage Computers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
But there
is also a chemical reaction (from outgassing of plasticizer?)
that makes the toner stick to the cover of PVC binders much more than
to most other substances.
I've had pages stick to other pages, but perhaps
this was the print on
each page sticking to the print on the other? 
4:49 p.m.
some Xeroxed stuff really can stick when stored in the Arizona summer in a
storage shed...
we got a gift of some recently.... ughghhh!
Thanks Ed Sharpe archivist for SMECC
Please check our web site at
http://www.smecc.org
to see other engineering fields, communications and computation stuff we
buy, and by all means when in Arizona drop in and see us.
address:
coury house / smecc
5802 w palmaire ave
glendale az 85301
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts"
<cctalk(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2004 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: Storage Hazards
On Sat, 9 Oct 2004, Fred Cisin wrote:
On Sat, 9 Oct 2004, Vintage Computer Festival
wrote:
THey will stick to each other, but nowhere near as much as they stick to
the plastic binder. Look at the inside front cover of some of those
beige
easel binders that you got from me.
Oh, I know this. I've got plenty of manuals that are a-stickin' to their
binder covers since they haven't been stored properly (currently being
remedied with the latest block of shelving going up). I just wanted to
let everyone know that pages also can stick to each other, and so
therefore you should want to store your manuals vertically.
--
Sellam Ismail Vintage Computer
Festival
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
International Man of Intrigue and Danger
http://www.vintage.org
[ Old computing resources for business || Buy/Sell/Trade Vintage
mputers ]
[ and academia at www.VintageTech.com || at
http://marketplace.vintage.org ]
But there
is also a chemical reaction (from outgassing of
plasticizer?)
that makes the toner stick to the cover of PVC binders much more than
to most other substances.
I've had pages stick to other pages, but perhaps
this was the print on
each page sticking to the print on the other? 
4:45 a.m.
At 02:39 PM 10/8/2004, Jules Richardson wrote:
Be careful with laser-printed documentation in ring
binders too; the
text has a habit of sticking to the underside of the binder's cover for
some reason - stick a blank sheet of paper in there to protect it.
The vinyl continues to out-gas for many years. That "new car" smell
is still there, just at lower levels. I think it melts the toner
plastic. The toner also re-melts under pressure, so a pile of docs
does a different kind of sticking.
- John
7372
days inactive
7381
days old
29 comments
18 participants
participants (18)
-
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
bfranchuk＠jetnet.ab.ca -
cisin＠xenosoft.com -
esharpe＠uswest.net -
gordon＠gjcp.net -
jfoust＠threedee.com -
jpero＠sympatico.ca -
jrice54＠vzavenue.net -
julesrichardsonuk＠yahoo.co.uk -
kth＠srv.net -
marvin＠rain.org -
news＠computercollector.com -
paulpenn＠knology.net -
pkoning＠equallogic.com -
ron.hudson＠sbcglobal.net -
tomj＠wps.com -
trixter＠oldskool.org -
vcf＠siconic.com