You're right. Somehow when I reassembled the power supply when I wasn't
testing it (just put it back together to move it out of the way)I put the
H745 in the WRONG SIDE. Therefore, I have it now hooked up to the battery
backup plug.
Duh, duh, and, more duh. :p
Needless to say I'm going to be starting all over when I get home.
Thanks for all your help in my chasing shadows.
Julian
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk-bounces at
classiccmp.org
[mailto:cctalk-bounces at
classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Tony Duell
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 6:34 PM
To: cctalk at
classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: BA11-K low AC output levels
Tony, responses to your statements are below, but as a general
question to those who are helping me with this, is the H745 light
supposed to come on if it's just connected to the power
distribution
board? i.e. am I supposed to se a light on with
no load
like the H7441s do?
Yes, you are. The lamp is simply connected across the output
of the regulator -- that is between the output line and
ground. It'll light up if the regulator is working.
Now, you
should see 20-30V _between the 2 wires going to a
particular regulator_. Not between either wire and earth.
This could explain my reading. I was only measuring one
wire at a time.
That might well explain it.
Try measuring the AC voltage between the 2 wires at each
regulator labelled '20-30V AC'. That is, connect one lead of
your voltmeter to one of the wires, the other lead to the other wire.
Not that it matters, but the thing that got me
started on
this path is
that the H745 has two pins, who each say
"20-30VAC"
Yes, it's somewhat confusing. It means you need to connect
20-30V AC between those 2 pins. The printset should show how
the transformer is connected (note that there are no
connections to the secondary windings other than to these
regulator bricks, there are no grounds, no taps connected to
ground, etc). And the prints of the regulator should justify
_why_ you connect it like that. From what I remember, those
to pins go to the AC terminals of a bridge rectifier, the
output of which goes to a large smoothing capacitor. And at
least for the +5V brick, one side of that capacitor is then grounded.
contactor
and its control supply. Is it possible that you have a
230V unit plugged into a 115V mains socket?
I highly doubt this as the AC input box is clearly marked 120V.
OK. Converting one to the other is possible, in that the
metal frame is the same apart from the markings on it. But
there are several internal wiring changes, I think the little
intenral transformer and the contactor are replaced, etc. I
don't think it's likely this has happened.
You could try looking at the wiring to the socket where the
transformer primary is connected (IIRC this is a 4 pin
connector on the front side of the input box). Does it look
as though the windings are in parallel (wires from the
contactor each go to 2 pins on that connector), or in series
(wires from the contactor go to 1 pin each, the remaing 2
pins are linked but not connected to anything else)? The
former is 115V, the later 230V.
Wow, OK, so what is it then? This really has me
stumped.
Is it still possible I have an input box problem?
See above. I don't think there's anything wrong with the PSU
at all. Just that you're not measuring the voltage you think
you're measuring.
-tony