2 Dec
2003
2 Dec
'03
4:11 a.m.
From: "Vintage Computer Festival"
<vcf(a)siconic.com>
On Tue, 2 Dec 2003, Joe wrote:
Hi Sellam
I suspect that it is the same thing. It may use some other
acid but for the cleaning part it should work OK. I've used
phosphoric acid treatment on a boat trailer that I had to protect
The BEST thing for leaky batteries is a
product called "Lime-Away".
It's sold in grocery stores and is used to remove stains caused by hard
water. Get the liquid stuff, not the gell. Put it on full strength a
wait a few minutes then wash/brush it off. It won't harm plastics. The
main ingediant is phosphoric acid and it will leave a phosphate coating
on some metals. The phosphate coating is similar to parkerizing and will
help prevent future corrosion. It's by far the best thing I've found for
corroded batteries.
I'm assuming that CLR ("Calcium, Lime, Rust") is also good? Or is the
"Calcium-Rust" component of the formula not good for plastics?
from the dunkings I did in salt water. So far, the
paint
has been on for about 10 years and there is no flaking of
the paint caused by rust under the paint. The are some small
rust stain lines where the paint is cracked. If it had been
any other undercoating method, I'm sure these cracks would
have allowed the rust to spread under the paint and peeled
the paint off. It is interesting that I never knew what the
process was called ( Parkerizing ). I do know it works but
often when I talk to other boat people, they don't know what
I'm talking about. Maybe I just didn't use the right name.
Dwight
2 Dec
2 Dec
4:55 a.m.
At 10:11 AM 12/2/03 -0800, you wrote:
"Parkerize" is actually a trade name that belongs to the Parker Chemical
company so other companies MUST call their products/treatments by another
name but there are many companies that offer the same or similar
treatments. However the term Parkerizing has been in use since at least WW
II and is almost always used genericly for these types of treatments.
"Parkerizing" is the name of the treatment that was used on both the M1
Garand Rifle (1936) and M1 Carbine (19410 in place of blueing. I don't know
if the manufacturers actually used the Parker process but all of the
manuals for those guns always refer to the finish as "Parkerizing".
BTW if you've ever used Navel Jelly it leaves the same kind of finish.
The main ingrediant in Navel Jelly is phosphoric acid. I've tried using it
on electronics but it's difficult to remove since it's a gell. I had the
same problem with the gelled Lime-Away.
Joe
From:
"Vintage Computer Festival" <vcf(a)siconic.com>
On Tue, 2 Dec 2003, Joe wrote:
Hi Sellam
I suspect that it is the same thing. It may use some other
acid but for the cleaning part it should work OK. I've used
phosphoric acid treatment on a boat trailer that I had to protect
from the dunkings I did in salt water. So far, the paint
has been on for about 10 years and there is no flaking of
the paint caused by rust under the paint. The are some small
rust stain lines where the paint is cracked. If it had been
any other undercoating method, I'm sure these cracks would
have allowed the rust to spread under the paint and peeled
the paint off. It is interesting that I never knew what the
process was called ( Parkerizing ). I do know it works but
often when I talk to other boat people, they don't know what
I'm talking about. Maybe I just didn't use the right name. The BEST thing for leaky batteries is a
product called "Lime-Away".
It's sold in grocery stores and is used to remove stains caused by hard
water. Get the liquid stuff, not the gell. Put it on full strength a
wait a few minutes then wash/brush it off. It won't harm plastics. The
main ingediant is phosphoric acid and it will leave a phosphate coating
on some metals. The phosphate coating is similar to parkerizing and will
help prevent future corrosion. It's by far the best thing I've found for
corroded batteries.
I'm assuming that CLR ("Calcium, Lime, Rust") is also good? Or is the
"Calcium-Rust" component of the formula not good for plastics?
9:49 a.m.
On Tue, 2 Dec 2003, Joe wrote:
<snip>
BTW if you've ever used Navel Jelly it leaves
the same kind of finish.
The main ingrediant in Navel Jelly is phosphoric acid. I've tried using it
on electronics but it's difficult to remove since it's a gell. I had the
same problem with the gelled Lime-Away.
Joe, unless you scraped it out of your belly-button it is NAVAL
Jelly 8-^}
- don
5:33 a.m.
New subject: seized screws rust or whatever was: leaky batteries!
While everybody else is talking about cleaning up the leakers,
Is this chemical is good use to dissolve rust on steel screw is
rust seized in the potmetal or aluminum distributor?
I have similar situation a steel screw rusted tight in distributor's
body, other screw I successfully removed. This two screws does have
a job to hold on black plastic splash shield because the distributor
is on front side of engine, shield deflects water spray away.
Shield is missing and installing with it found from junkyard. The
philips head isn't chewed up yet.
This distributor in question is in the 1987 2.2L plymouth caravan.
Oh does have primitive computer mostly to control three vacuum
soleoids and advance/retard spark timing instead of mechanical means.
Distributor has hall effect sensor btw. So it's almost on topic.
:-)
Finding another distributor is not easy because I looked enough to
know that vehicles at junkyard isn't old enough to have this kind
ditto to carb (holley 5220). :-( ) Those 'vans I looked had TBI 4
cyl 2.5L or 3.0L V6 mitsubishi engines.
Oh to quell quips, the 84 to very early 87 distributors and later
2.2/2.5 distributors aren't same. Hall effect vanes is on rotor
iteslf with vanes down on those like mine. Later ones has vanes
mounted to the shaft pointing up with rotor seperate from it.
Have to deal with what I have now.
Cheers,
Wizard
11:18 a.m.
New subject: seized screws rust or whatever was: leaky batteries!
On Tue, 2 Dec 2003 jpero(a)sympatico.ca wrote:
While everybody else is talking about cleaning up the
leakers,
Is this chemical is good use to dissolve rust on steel screw is
rust seized in the potmetal or aluminum distributor?
I don't recall ever working on a computer that had an aluminum
distributor.
The more common problem with steel screws into aluminum parts, such as
drives, particularly if subjected to weather, etc., is for the head of the
screw to rust, but the aluminum hole that it screws into to corrode.
Usually the best approach is to get it out where you can work on it.
A penetrating oil, OR COKE, if permitted to soak into the hole overnight
will sometimes help loosen the grip.
Then use tools that fit TIGHTLY to the head of the fastener (use 6 point
not 12 point for hex), and DON'T use a #1 Phillips for #2 fasteners!
If it is too late, and somebody has already buggered the head, then use
Vis-Grips #5WR.
If the head breaks off, anyway, then you'll need to drill out the broken
fastener. If possible, use LEFT-HANDED drill bits - they will tend to
loosen instead of further tighten the stub.
Easy-Outs will sometimes work once it is drilled, but when the Easy-Out
breaks off, then it REALLY gets fun.
If you can't get the stub to unscrew out, then drill it out almost to the
threads.
Once you get it out, then gently run a tap down the hole to clean up the
thread. Use a "Re-Threading" tap if possible.
If you bugger up the hole, then put in a helicoil. If it is too far gone
for a heli-coil, or needs more strength, use a nutsert.
When you reassemble, get rid of all damaged fasteners, even if they "might
still be good for one or two more times".
Use an "anti-seize" compound on the new fastener when you reassemble, to
reduce the binding for next time.
--
Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin(a)xenosoft.com
1:03 p.m.
New subject: seized screws rust or whatever was: leaky batteries!
At 07:33 PM 12/2/03 +0000, you wrote:
While everybody else is talking about cleaning up the
leakers,
Is this chemical is good use to dissolve rust on steel screw is
rust seized in the potmetal or aluminum distributor?
No, not really. The best thing for that is Break Free or some other kind
of penetrating oil.
I have similar situation a steel screw rusted tight in distributor's
body, other screw I successfully removed. This two screws does have
a job to hold on black plastic splash shield because the distributor
is on front side of engine, shield deflects water spray away.
Shield is missing and installing with it found from junkyard. The
philips head isn't chewed up yet.
For things like this the best thing that I've found is is an impact
screw driver with a GOOD fitting bit. An impact screwdriver is a screw
driver with a heavy metal body with interchangeable bits. After you get the
bit into the screw you hit the end of the screwdriver body with a good size
hammer. The hammer blow drives the bit into the screw slot and helps
prevents it from slipping and stripping the screw slot. The screwdriver
also has a cam in it and when you hit it with a hammer the cam turns the
bit with a lot more force than you could by hand. That will usually break
the screw free. You can buy these at Sears or any decent tool supplier. I
bought mine for about $20 at Sears about 15 years ago.
Joe
1:50 p.m.
New subject: seized screws rust or whatever was: leaky batteries!
On Tue, 2 Dec 2003, Joe wrote:
I use WD40. It's cheap.
Peace... Sridhar
While everybody
else is talking about cleaning up the leakers,
Is this chemical is good use to dissolve rust on steel screw is rust
seized in the potmetal or aluminum distributor?
No, not really. The best thing for that is Break Free or some other
kind of penetrating oil. 
1:57 p.m.
New subject: seized screws rust or whatever was: leaky batteries!
On Tuesday, December 2, 2003, at 09:50 PM, vance(a)neurotica.com wrote:
On Tue, 2 Dec 2003, Joe wrote:
I use WD40. It's cheap.
Peace... Sridhar
Naval (as in Navy) Jelly?
While
everybody else is talking about cleaning up the leakers,
Is this chemical is good use to dissolve rust on steel screw is rust
seized in the potmetal or aluminum distributor?
No, not really. The best thing for that is Break Free or some other
kind of penetrating oil.
7691
days inactive
7691
days old
7 comments
7 participants
participants (7)
-
cisin＠xenosoft.com -
donm＠cts.com -
dwight.elvey＠amd.com -
jpero＠sympatico.ca -
rhudson＠cnonline.net -
rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com -
vance＠neurotica.com