4 Nov
2004
4 Nov
'04
12:02 a.m.
I asked about cleaning up the Flexowriters and a friend of mine
reminded me that the old typewriter shops had vats of solvent that they
would dunk the entire assembly into (taking off electrical and rubber parts
before-hand). These are pretty nasty so I thought that sounding like a
good idea. I was thinking of using minerals spirits. Anybody have any
experience with using that on electromechanical stuff? Any sugggestions? I
thought I'd remove the platen and belt on the RH side and any other rubber
parts that I could see. Does anyone know if there are any parts inside the
Flexowriters that should be removed first?
Joe
4 Nov
4 Nov
12:26 a.m.
On Thu, 2004-11-04 at 09:02 -0500, Joe R. wrote:
Anybody have any experience with using that on
electromechanical stuff?
Any sugggestions?
No, but let me know how you get on. We've got a Flexowriter what we want
to hook up to our Marconi at some point (as it had one way back when).
The only viable one we have is complete and OK cosmetically, but in need
of a complete strip down and rebuild.
I
thought I'd remove the platen and belt on the RH side and any other rubber
parts that I could see. Does anyone know if there are any parts inside the
Flexowriters that should be removed first?
I've heard before that the belts are prone to failure - if you find
anywhere that can do spares then shout :)
Actually I might bring our Flexowriter home and start going over it...
no doubt I'll unearth some horrors along the way :)
cheers
Jules
--
"We thought you was a toad!"
12:35 a.m.
At 02:26 PM 11/4/04 +0000, you wrote:
On Thu, 2004-11-04 at 09:02 -0500, Joe R. wrote:
At least one of these still has the belt on it. But I know that it's
probably shot so I'm planning on taking it off and taking it to a
industrial belting place and see if they can matrch it up with something
more modern. I was able to find belts there for the HP-85 so they seem to
have a good selection.
Anybody have any experience with using that on
electromechanical stuff?
Any sugggestions?
No, but let me know how you get on. We've got a Flexowriter what we want
to hook up to our Marconi at some point (as it had one way back when).
The only viable one we have is complete and OK cosmetically, but in need
of a complete strip down and rebuild.
I
thought I'd remove the platen and belt on the RH side and any other rubber
parts that I could see. Does anyone know if there are any parts inside the
Flexowriters that should be removed first?
I've heard before that the belts are prone to failure - if you find
anywhere that can do spares then shout :)
Actually I might bring our Flexowriter home and start going over it...
no doubt I'll unearth some horrors along the way :)
Do it. Misery loves company. We can swap horror stories :-)
Joe
cheers
Jules
--
"We thought you was a toad!"
2:39 a.m.
I'm making good progress on cleaning up the first Flexowriter. Can
anyone tell me how to get the carriage out? Or should I even try? It looks
like I'm missing the bottom cover off of this one. Anybody have a spare? A
few of the keycaps are smashed so I'm looking for those if anyone has any
extras. Pictures and more details later.
I've been told that Ammonia is good for cleaning rubber and won't damage
it. Can anyone verify this?
Joe
3:11 a.m.
I've been told that Ammonia is good for cleaning
rubber and
won't damage it. Can anyone verify this?
I use windex (mostly ammonia) for cleaning everything at first,
usually in a momentary contact sort of way, IE, not soaking for
days. I have no, 0, incidents to report. Been doing it for years.
Heard a rumor once that it shouldn't be gotten on car body
paint, but that's just a rumor and OT here.
John A.
4:10 a.m.
OK more questions. The keys on these are covered with white mildew.
What's the best stuff to clean them with and should I put anything on them
after they're clean to preserve them. I ran into a problem. Something
heavy had been dropped on the keyboard of this one and several of the metal
levers that the keycaps mount on are bent or broken. How hard is it to take
this section apart so that I can repair the levers? Also where is the IO
connector on this beast? I found terminal strip on the back inside but
there's only about 6 wires on it and it doesn't look like it's made for
external IO. BTW I found that this is a model FL and the name plate says
that it's a "Recorder/Reproducer".
Joe
At 12:11 PM 11/4/04 -0500, you wrote:
I've been
told that Ammonia is good for cleaning rubber and
won't damage it. Can anyone verify this?
I use windex (mostly ammonia) for cleaning everything at first,
usually in a momentary contact sort of way, IE, not soaking for
days. I have no, 0, incidents to report. Been doing it for years.
Heard a rumor once that it shouldn't be gotten on car body
paint, but that's just a rumor and OT here.
John A.
8:30 a.m.
OK more questions. The keys on these are covered with white mildew.
What's the best stuff to clean them with and should I put anything on them
after they're clean to preserve them. I ran into a problem. Something
heavy had been dropped on the keyboard of this one and several of the metal
levers that the keycaps mount on are bent or broken. How hard is it to take
this section apart so that I can repair the levers? Also where is the IO
Not too hard (I managed it). You have to take the main chassis out (see
my previous message), then at the bottom you loosen off the screws
holding the clamp strips. slide out the axle rods and take out the snail
cam assemblies one at a time (they unclip from the linkages to the type
bars). Note that there are some 'odd' snail cams, so keep them in order.
Then you remove the key pressure adjustment screws and the springs. I
can't rememebr if you have to take out the type bars (if so, loosen the
screws, remove the semi-circular axles, take them out, keep them in
sequence). Slide out the key bar axle and remove the keys.
connector on this beast? I found terminal strip on the
back inside but
there's only about 6 wires on it and it doesn't look like it's made for
external IO. BTW I found that this is a model FL and the name plate says
that it's a "Recorder/Reproducer".
Mine has a large circualr mil-spec like connector on the back with a
loopback plug in it. It's possible yours has no I/O at all -- it may have
been made solely for punching and printing paper tapes.
-tony
4:40 a.m.
New subject: Parts for Allergan Humphrey (vision field analzyer)
Model 605 by Allergan Humphrey, Instruments/a SmithKline Company
Field Analzyer
That thing landed at our TV shop with insufficient vertical
complaint. (I see it this way as rolling and grabage video).
Computer inside is very on topic and old! Intel 8088, 256K, 6845
video with pair of RCA 6264 ram for video etc, small handful of PALs
and load of TTL ICs.
I used to service TTL stuff like Z19 terminals XTs stuff back in
very early 90's at university. So I rubbed my hands in glee because
this is my area!
Figured out the CPU is "dead" because of no clock feeding it. Hence
the grabage rolling vertically and insufficent vertical scan on the
monochrome CRT. I noticed that unit has ROM for CPU is missing but
that doesn't explain no activity on the CPU even without ROM.
I need to be double certain so need older data sheets.
Googled for 8088 pin out and I was disappointed. Need to get info.
I'll post both photos of that unif and list of IC I need data on
them tomorrow night.
Cheers,
Wizard
5:44 a.m.
Two more notes on cleaning this stuff:
I used the same trick on my 1920's? Model 102 strip printer,
but that required partial disassembly of the sliding print bar
decoder, it's basically a tight stack of bars and needed mild
abrasive cleaning (crocus cloth or something).
Both it and the first model 28 have seen 50 - 100 hours of use
since cleaning.
The other is, the rubber rollers in my Flexo (paper platen, and the
weird timing mechanism underneath) are stiff as granite, but it seems
to work fine; print quality somewhat wsuffers but not enough to
spend a fortune rebuilding.
THe timing roller has cracks in the rubber, even, and works,
though we'll see how long it lasts in use. I suppose I shoudl
carefully record dimensions for later recoating.
5:40 a.m.
On Thu, 4 Nov 2004, Joe R. wrote:
I asked about cleaning up the Flexowriters and a
friend of mine
reminded me that the old typewriter shops had vats of solvent that they
would dunk the entire assembly into (taking off electrical and rubber parts
before-hand). These are pretty nasty so I thought that sounding like a
good idea. I was thinking of using minerals spirits. Anybody have any
experience with using that on electromechanical stuff? Any sugggestions? I
thought I'd remove the platen and belt on the RH side and any other rubber
parts that I could see. Does anyone know if there are any parts inside the
Flexowriters that should be removed first?
This sounds barbaric, and it has it's dangers, but my method
is simple. I've used this on two Teletype Model 28s. One had
been out in a field in S. Arizona, under a tarp, for 10+ years,
and the other in a dusty garage and was filled with dust and
cat hair adhered to ancient, gelled lubricant.
Took the entire mechanism, rubber, electrics and all, placed
on a concrete walkway.
Sprayed with garden hose and nozzle to remove bulk crap.
Used automotive "purple cleaner" and a paint brush to remove
all the congealed lube and dirt.
Sprayed with garden hose THOROUGHLY to remove degreaser and
crud and most of the paintbrush hairs.
Rotate and tilt to remove most water.
Left in sun all day, tilted for drainage. Let dry inside for
2? 4? days.
The only damage was to the keyboard contacts inside the little
tin box, I had to open and clean it out.
I lube everything with synthetic grease and 0-weight synthetic
motor oil.
Water is a great solvent. It's non-toxic, and while it promotes
electrochemical corrosion if it lingers too long (ie. rust)
it's easily removed.
I did #1 6 years ago and there has been no detectable problems
since then (eg. incremental corrosion caused by trapped or
residue degreaser).
7:41 a.m.
At 11:40 AM 11/4/04 -0800, you wrote:
On Thu, 4 Nov 2004, Joe R. wrote:
I opened up the Flexowriter today and decided against bathing it in
anything. There are too many open switches, electromagnets and other things
that don't look like they'd be happy in water or mineral spirits. I cleaned
it bit by bit with a toothbrush and a vaccuum cleaner to get the crud out.
I sprayed WD-40 in places where it wouldn't hurt and then wiped it up with
paper towels. That picked up a lot of the dust and dirt that was sticking
to everything. It took all day but I finally got it reasonable clean. A lot
of the mechanical stuff was frozen due to solidified grease. Even the motor
was frozen. I had to take it out and turn by hand for a few minutes to get
it lossened up enough to run.
I finally got the first Flexowriter running. Sort of. The motor runs
but the belt slips most of the time. The gear train in the thing is TIGHT.
I don't know for sure why but among other things the clutch for the belt
that drives the carriage seems to be frozen on. The carriage runs to the
right and it's still trying to drive it. I can push it back to the left
(with power off) but it hard to move. Before I applied power I was able to
move it left and right easily. I don't know why it's so hard to move now.
Normally the black buttons on the left and right of the carriage release it
and let you move it back to the left easily but after the motor moves it to
the right they have no affect. I'd still like to find a way to take the
entire carriage off so that I can clean everything in the center under it.
I REALLY need a manual that explains how this thing works!
Joe
I asked about cleaning up the Flexowriters
and a friend of mine
reminded me that the old typewriter shops had vats of solvent that they
would dunk the entire assembly into (taking off electrical and rubber parts
before-hand). These are pretty nasty so I thought that sounding like a
good idea. I was thinking of using minerals spirits. Anybody have any
experience with using that on electromechanical stuff? Any sugggestions? I
thought I'd remove the platen and belt on the RH side and any other rubber
parts that I could see. Does anyone know if there are any parts inside the
Flexowriters that should be removed first?
This sounds barbaric, and it has it's dangers, but my method
is simple. I've used this on two Teletype Model 28s. One had
been out in a field in S. Arizona, under a tarp, for 10+ years,
and the other in a dusty garage and was filled with dust and
cat hair adhered to ancient, gelled lubricant.
Took the entire mechanism, rubber, electrics and all, placed
on a concrete walkway.
Sprayed with garden hose and nozzle to remove bulk crap.
Used automotive "purple cleaner" and a paint brush to remove
all the congealed lube and dirt.
Sprayed with garden hose THOROUGHLY to remove degreaser and
crud and most of the paintbrush hairs.
Rotate and tilt to remove most water.
Left in sun all day, tilted for drainage. Let dry inside for
2? 4? days.
The only damage was to the keyboard contacts inside the little
tin box, I had to open and clean it out.
I lube everything with synthetic grease and 0-weight synthetic
motor oil.
Water is a great solvent. It's non-toxic, and while it promotes
electrochemical corrosion if it lingers too long (ie. rust)
it's easily removed.
I did #1 6 years ago and there has been no detectable problems
since then (eg. incremental corrosion caused by trapped or
residue degreaser).
8:38 a.m.
I finally got the first Flexowriter running. Sort
of. The motor runs
but the belt slips most of the time. The gear train in the thing is TIGHT.
It shoudln't be. With the machine idling (i.e. no snails kicked against
the drive roller), it should be very free. Remove the punch and reader
first, of course (trivial to do) to eliminate those.
In case you've not figured it out, pressing a key releases a snail cam
against the drive roller. The roller then flips the cam round, forcing
the bracket that holds the cam away from the roller. This operates the
type bar. It's a standard mechanism for electric typewrtiers.
The transmit output comes from the contacts at the RHS near the
carriage return clutch. The rials in the encoder frame connect to the
snail brackets, when the brackets are forced away from the roller, the
encoder rail moves, lifting the switch actuator bails, operating the
contacts.
The receive input goes to solenoids in the decoder box under the
keyboard. The operate more rails, which allow a key actuator to drop in
place, pulling down the apropraite key lever.
I don't know for sure why but among other things
the clutch for the belt
that drives the carriage seems to be frozen on. The carriage runs to the
right and it's still trying to drive it. I can push it back to the left
Now, I am tryint to rememebr things... That clutch has a bistable
linkage. It's set (i.e. the clutch is engaged) by one of the snails,
connected to the return key. I can't remember what resets it, probably
the carriage getting to the home position (is this adjustable?) That
should give you some idea as to what to look for.
-tony
9:29 a.m.
On Thu, 4 Nov 2004, Tony Duell wrote:
It is a bistable device, and not timed etc, but re-set upon
carriage reaching column 0. It's on the right side under a cover
or something. I don't recall the mechanism either, I didn't
decode it since I realized the problem with mine was simply
the rails/journals were very dry and it otherwise worked fine.
I don't
know for sure why but among other things the clutch for the belt
that drives the carriage seems to be frozen on. The carriage runs to the
right and it's still trying to drive it. I can push it back to the left
Now, I am tryint to rememebr things... That clutch has a bistable
linkage. It's set (i.e. the clutch is engaged) by one of the snails,
connected to the return key. I can't remember what resets it, probably
the carriage getting to the home position (is this adjustable?) That
should give you some idea as to what to look for.
9:18 a.m.
On Thu, 4 Nov 2004, Joe R. wrote:
I opened up the Flexowriter today and decided
against bathing it in
anything. There are too many open switches, electromagnets and other things
that don't look like they'd be happy in water or mineral spirits. I cleaned
it bit by bit with a toothbrush and a vaccuum cleaner to get the crud out.
I sprayed WD-40 in places where it wouldn't hurt and then wiped it up with
paper towels. That picked up a lot of the dust and dirt that was sticking
to everything. It took all day but I finally got it reasonable clean. A lot
of the mechanical stuff was frozen due to solidified grease. Even the motor
was frozen. I had to take it out and turn by hand for a few minutes to get
it lossened up enough to run.
That's a fine approach. Go buy a hypodermic type oil can (model
railroad places?) and use a nice light synth oil. Hit every
single pivot and rotating part!
The carriage on mine took extra work. THe carriage rides on a
pair of rails that have flat sliders, and therefore stickiness
really, well, sticks. I mixed a little oil with synth grease
and applied with a popcicle stick to the rails then slid the
carrige to the other side and did the same, etc. Took a lot of
lube to get it to slide freely.
The motor bearings probably want oil too. I slithered some in
there but I suppose I should take the motor out and do it right.
4:37 p.m.
A word of warning here.... Castrol Super Clean (the original purple
degreaser) can degloss paint and fade some plastics. If an alternative
can't be found, I'd dilute it with water before contact with the machine.
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA
Tom Jennings wrote:
Used automotive "purple cleaner" and a paint
brush to remove
all the congealed lube and dirt.
5 Nov
5 Nov
5:51 a.m.
On Fri, 5 Nov 2004, Chad Fernandez wrote:
A word of warning here.... Castrol Super Clean (the
original purple degreaser)
can degloss paint and fade some plastics. If an alternative can't be found,
I'd dilute it with water before contact with the machine.
A good point; this stuff is HARSH. It's a degreaser, and
contains a lot of lye, amongst other things, it eats skin
(literally makign you bleed if you leave it on your skin). I
didn't say, but it seems obvious, rapidly effective chemistry
isn't selective, and cover your ass and other parts liberally
with latex gloves (no remarks please). I use two layers with
this stuff.
And I don't use it on cosmetic items, as I wouldn't use most
reactive solvents, though for deeply crapped up stuff, it might
be a good last resort.
I use "windex" type cleaners on key caps and the like, and
Dr. Bronners liquid castille soaps and water on cabinets,
or just hand dishwashing liquid and water.
Rarely do I need to use petroleum solvents. I'm not totally
opposed to them, I keep mineral spirits and even a pint of
lacquer thinner around, but that stuff does stink up the world,
costs a lot more, is flammable, etc. My wild days of MEK plus
toluol in an ultrasonic tank without gloves are looong gone
behind me. I hope.
Tom Jennings wrote:
Used automotive "purple cleaner" and a
paint brush to remove
all the congealed lube and dirt.
6:15 a.m.
>>>> "Tom" == Tom Jennings
<tomj(a)wps.com> writes:
Tom> On Fri, 5 Nov 2004, Chad Fernandez wrote:
> A word of warning here.... Castrol Super Clean
(the original
> purple degreaser) can degloss paint and fade some plastics. If an
> alternative can't be found, I'd dilute it with water before
> contact with the machine.
Tom> A good point; this stuff is HARSH. It's a degreaser, and
Tom> contains a lot of lye, amongst other things, it eats skin
Tom> (literally makign you bleed if you leave it on your skin). I
Tom> didn't say, but it seems obvious, rapidly effective chemistry
Tom> isn't selective, and cover your ass and other parts liberally
Tom> with latex gloves (no remarks please). I use two layers with
Tom> this stuff.
If you meant "latex" literally, that may be problematic. Latex rubber
dissolves in lots of things. Vinyl may be better. For anything as
nasty as lye, I'd go for nothing less than sturdy neoprene gloves.
paul
4:51 a.m.
>>>> "Tom" == Tom Jennings <tomj(a)wps.com> writes:
Tom> On Fri, 5 Nov 2004, Chad Fernandez wrote:
> A word of warning here.... Castrol Super
Clean (the original
> purple degreaser) can degloss paint and fade some plastics. If an
> alternative can't be found, I'd dilute it with water before
> contact with the machine.
Tom> A good point; this stuff is HARSH. It's a degreaser, and
Tom> contains a lot of lye, amongst other things, it eats skin
Tom> (literally makign you bleed if you leave it on your skin). I
Tom> didn't say, but it seems obvious, rapidly effective chemistry
Tom> isn't selective, and cover your ass and other parts liberally
Tom> with latex gloves (no remarks please). I use two layers with
Tom> this stuff.
If you meant "latex" literally, that may be problematic. Latex rubber
dissolves in lots of things. Vinyl may be better. For anything as
nasty as lye, I'd go for nothing less than sturdy neoprene gloves.
paul
12:25 p.m.
> contains a lot of lye, amongst other things,
> it eats skin (literally makign you bleed
...it is POWERFUL but this will corrode...
etc.
For petroleum based gunk, there's probably nothing
gentler than lighter fluid.
I have tried two different batches of "Goo-gone" and have
never seen it prove its value, IE it seemed very lame.
My basic toolkit:
Windex, Q-Tips, Lighter fluid, paper towels, Ajax, knowledge, time.
John A.
please don't light it.
9:21 a.m.
At 11:51 AM 11/5/04 -0800, you wrote:
Ug. Nasty stuff. Probably about the same as oven cleaners, they're lye
based. I won't try it on a Flexowriter. They have a LOT of aluminium parts.
For the ones that aren't aware of it, lye WILL distroy aluminium. lye +
aluminium + water = hydrogen gas + sodium aluminate.
it eats skin
On Fri, 5 Nov 2004, Chad Fernandez wrote:
> A word of warning here.... Castrol Super Clean (the original purple
degreaser)
> can degloss paint and fade some plastics. If an
alternative can't be
found,
I'd dilute
it with water before contact with the machine.
A good point; this stuff is HARSH. It's a degreaser, and
contains a lot of lye, amongst other things, (literally makign you bleed if you leave it on your
skin). I
didn't say, but it seems obvious, rapidly effective chemistry
isn't selective, and cover your ass and other parts liberally
with latex gloves (no remarks please). I use two layers with
this stuff.
I use "windex" type cleaners on key caps and
the like, and
Dr. Bronners liquid castille soaps and water on cabinets,
or just hand dishwashing liquid and water.
Windex just isn't what it used to be. It used be a great cleaner but any
more it acts like there's nothing in it but water.
Joe
4:21 p.m.
Tom Jennings wrote:
A good point; this stuff is HARSH. It's a
degreaser, and
contains a lot of lye, amongst other things, it eats skin
(literally makign you bleed if you leave it on your skin).
Are you sure about the lye? I've used lye before, and didn't think that
it was like Castol Super Clean at all. I suppose the other ingredients
and fragrances may be the differences, though.
I used to use Castrol SC with my bare hands. I stopped, though. I
figured it probably wasn't good in the long term, and I got tired of my
hands drying out so bad.
Someone else mentioned what it can do to aluminum..... I'd forgotten
about that. It's actually been quite some time since I've used the stuff.
Rarely do I need to use petroleum solvents. I'm not totally
opposed to them, I keep mineral spirits and even a pint of
lacquer thinner around, but that stuff does stink up the world,
costs a lot more, is flammable, etc. My wild days of MEK plus
toluol in an ultrasonic tank without gloves are looong gone
behind me. I hope.
I like to keep 3M's adhesive remover around. I buy it at the local body
shop supply store. I don't think I've ever had it harm the surface that
I was working with.
Chad Fernandez
Michigan, USA
7 Nov
7 Nov
4:12 a.m.
On Sat, 6 Nov 2004, Chad Fernandez wrote:
Tom Jennings wrote:
Oh it's harsh stuff, but that's the point, right? It eats
congealed grease, not a delicate job to begin with. Petro
solvents are the same in that, they have Side Effects.
I've gotten the stuff on my hands, and it's very nasty, I'd
never use it un-gloved! YOu can't rinse the stuff off your skin
hardly -- it grips all the oils and organics tightly. It's made
me BLEED when I got a pinholed glove, etc.
A good point; this stuff is HARSH. It's a
degreaser, and
contains a lot of lye, amongst other things, it eats skin
(literally makign you bleed if you leave it on your skin).
Are you sure about the lye? I've used lye before, and didn't think that it
was like Castol Super Clean at all. I suppose the other ingredients and
fragrances may be the differences, though.
I used to use Castrol SC with my bare hands. I stopped, though. I figured it
probably wasn't good in the long term, and I got tired of my hands drying out
so bad.
Someone else mentioned what it can do to aluminum..... I'd forgotten about
that. It's actually been quite some time since I've used the stuff.
I like to keep 3M's adhesive remover around. I buy it at the local body shop
supply store. I don't think I've ever had it harm the surface that I was
working with.
AUtomotive chemicals are a good source for restoration; they
have a lot of the same issues we do. Don't hurt paint, plastics,
etc and there's a lot of them.
4 Nov
4 Nov
8:23 a.m.
I asked about cleaning up the Flexowriters and a friend of mine
reminded me that the old typewriter shops had vats of solvent that they
would dunk the entire assembly into (taking off electrical and rubber parts
before-hand). These are pretty nasty so I thought that sounding like a
good idea. I was thinking of using minerals spirits. Anybody have any
experience with using that on electromechanical stuff? Any sugggestions? I
thought I'd remove the platen and belt on the RH side and any other rubber
parts that I could see. Does anyone know if there are any parts inside the
Flexowriters that should be removed first?
When I did mine, I found that the flexowriter can be stripped down into
modules very easily. It's about 10 years since I did it (so I am going to
forget some details), but I can rememebr you take out the platten and all
the external covers, then stand it on its back and undo 2 screws holding
the encoder chassis in place. Swing that out, then uplug the punch and
reader cables, undo the captive screws holding the punch and reader in
place, and take hose out.
Loosen the setscrew on the encoder support rond, slide that out and
remove the encoder. Take out the screws holding the the decoder under the
keyboard, unhook it from the key rails, unplug the cables, take it out.
Take out the drive roller. This is spring-loaded towards the drive gear
side. Force it away from the drive gear with a screwdriver, it'll flip out.
Take put the drvie gear (the spindle stub presses out), the belts,
driveshaft/pulleys, etc.
I remember removing the carriage, and I rememebr it was quite easy, but I
forget the details
You then dismantle the carrirage return clutch at the right hand side,
take out the screws holding the main chassis in position, and take it out.
The individual modules strip down very easily. I cleaned all the parts in
various solvents -- white spirit (I think that's mineral spirits to you),
paraffin (kerosene), petrol (gasoline). The safety nazis can have a field
day over that, and obviously you must do the cleaning outside with no
sources of ignition.
I have never liked the idea of soaking a mechanism in solvent. I know
_all_ clock restores object to the practice, and these mechanisms are of
abotu the same size and precision.
Two more things I remmeber. You need a set of Bristol Spline keys for
some of the setscrews (it is based on an IBM design after all). And the
carriage step escapement has a 4 rows of ball bearings that will go
everywhere when you strip it unless you know to catch them. Stick them
back in place with grease when assembling as usual, of course.
-tony
7350
days inactive
7353
days old
22 comments
8 participants
participants (8)
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allain＠panix.com -
ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
fernande＠internet1.net -
jpero＠sympatico.ca -
julesrichardsonuk＠yahoo.co.uk -
pkoning＠equallogic.com -
rigdonj＠cfl.rr.com -
tomj＠wps.com