I have cleaned of numerous boards over the years with a torch.
If I have several boards to do I work on them in rotation to allow
them to cool between heatings.
I work in small zones, grasping it firmly away from the heat.
I first heat the board and hitting it on the table parts side up.
This causes most of the solder in the holes and on the
topside of the board to "flow" through the board and onto the
cardboard leaving fairly clean holes and pins if I do it right.
A second pass of heat followed by a sharp rap on the
table, parts side down, will make a nice little pile of parts
to pick up once they are cool.
The trick is to get it hot enough for the solder to flow and let inertia
carry the solder out of the holes, when the board makes a sudden
stop against the edge of the bench. To remove the parts that did not
fly off in the previous impact, an inspection a pin straighten if required
and a second quick heating followed by a sharp deceleration component
side down will liberate all but the most stubborn of chips.
The board will continue to hold heat far longer than the parts, so let it cool
before working on other zones. This works best if you are going for
selected parts on a number of boards and don't care about the other
junk on the card.
While doing this I have a good solder sucker and some solder-wick
on hand for the stubborn ones. A small collection of hand tools come in
handy for bent over pins and forceful removal of disobedient parts.
I have a favorite screwdriver that has been bent into a mini prybar that
gets under chips and pops the last hold of stuck pins quite nicely.
Hope this helps, If I remember, I will take a few pictures next time I do it and
put them on the website somewhere. It is more of an art than a science.
It takes a bit of practice to get the correct heat and edge banging
necessary to achieve the desired results. Without injury or undesirable damage.
Don't forget to use a cardboard target to wrap the edge of the board on !
It provides a small amount of shock absorbing and quickly becomes covered
with solder spray. For those of you lucky enough to still have good vision,
find some glasses and keep it. I have a set of old computer glasses that I use
because they have a nice focal point so I can see the solder flow for heat control.
My reading glasses put my face way too close for comfort !
Unless you are a welder or get of on stinging little burns this in not a t-shirt
activity.
I de-soldered 3,000+ 4116 dram chips from some large Storage cards
in the early 80's tested and sold them in sets as 16k upgrades for
apple/pet/trs80/ect... at an early computer show in the Chicago Area.
That brings back some old memories, hours of de-soldering testing and
cleaning chips, took them to the show sold them cheep and sold out in 4 hours.
Turned the booth over to a friend sell some of his junk for the second day and
never looked back. Any of the old timer around here know what happened to
Terry of Midwest Micro Lombard fame ? I am willing to bet he still has his Apple 1 :)
I only had one set, slip through testing, I sent the guy a replacement and a spare,
and counted one more happy camper :)
Last thought, Radio shack has a nice butane torch that works well for one chip at a
time.
For larger areas a self lighting propane torch with a stand is best. Cut up a heavy
cardboard box as a bench cover it does make a mess.
l8tr
Bob Bradlee
On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 20:31:31 -0600, compoobah at
valleyimplants.com wrote:
I've seen several references to using torches to
remove DIPs from PCBs. Are there any specific things to keep in mind to avoid heat damage
&cet? Are you talking propane plumber's
blowtorches?