6 Apr
2011
6 Apr
'11
3:21 a.m.
Incidentally, I have a 35mm SLR that had a simple
fault (a spring
became
unhooked under the baseplate). Unfortuantely, the previous owner,
noticing tha thte slow shutter speeds didn't work, sprayed WD40 into
evey
part of it. The result is that everything wil lahve to come apart
(even
the exposure meter movement pivots are gummed up). What would ahve
ben a
10 minute repair is goign to take several days.
I also know somebody who sprayed WD40 into a slightly sticking Kurta
(almost on-topic ;-)). The result was a totally sitcking Kurta.
AARRGGHHH! Those people are EVIL!
Could you remove all glass from your SLR and then flood-clean it with
lighter fluid? Might save some dismantling...
It's odd, but apart from some people on this list,
I can't think of
any
source that recomends the use of WD40 on precision mechanisms. Every
book
on clock repair, camera repair, instrument repair, etc that I have
ever
read warns against it.
It comes up sometimes on the classic camera mailing lists I am a member
of. However there is always a flood of responses strongly advising
against it in no uncertain terms. Many precision mechanisms are better
off unlubricated, e.g. shutters.
Something else to watch out for is keeping anything silicone-based away
from a camera. The silicone adsorbs to glass etc at a molecular level
and is absolutely impossible to remove. I expect that doesn't apply to
computers though.
/Jonas
6 Apr
6 Apr
12:10 p.m.
I also know
somebody who sprayed WD40 into a slightly sticking Kurta
(almost on-topic ;-)). The result was a totally sitcking Kurta.
AARRGGHHH! Those people are EVIL!
Could you remove all glass from your SLR and then flood-clean it with
lighter fluid? Might save some dismantling...
Not really. The glass parts wil lcome off (interchangeable prism and
focussing screen), but it's acloth focal plane shutter, shich is not the
best thing to flood with lighter fluid. I'd also have to relubricate all
the bits that need oil anyway.
My expeirence is that flood-cleaning meter movements doesn't work eitehr.
It's odd,
but apart from some people on this list, I can't think of
any
source that recomends the use of WD40 on precision mechanisms. Every
book
on clock repair, camera repair, instrument repair, etc that I have
ever
read warns against it.
It comes up sometimes on the classic camera mailing lists I am a member
of. However there is always a flood of responses strongly advising against it in no uncertain terms. Many precision
mechanisms are better
off unlubricated, e.g. shutters.
It's perhaps worth mentioningthat a lot of small gear trains, in
particualr clocks and watches, but also chutter times, etc, are supposed
to run with the teeth _dry_, no oil. Yes, you put a drop on each pivot,
but nowhre else.
Leaf shutter (and diaphragm) blades must be oil-free or they will stick
like crazy. But often the timing and control mechanisms do need _careful_
lubrication (by which I mean 1 drop of watch oil in the right place).
Something else to watch out for is keeping anything silicone-based away
from a camera. The silicone adsorbs to glass etc at a molecular level
and is absolutely impossible to remove. I expect that doesn't apply to
Now that I didn't realise (not that I normally use silicone lubricants),
thanks!
-tony
1:17 p.m.
On 06/04/2011 20:10, Tony Duell wrote:
Leaf shutter (and diaphragm) blades must be oil-free
or they will stick
like crazy.
I was taught (by a optical technician) that some iris diaphragm and
shutter blades do get lubricated -- but only with a tiny, tiny amount of
fine graphite powder. About as much as you can pick up with a pin :-)
And only after you're sure they're clean (no oil).
--
Pete Peter Turnbull
Network Manager
University of York
12 Apr
12 Apr
11:26 a.m.
On 06/04/2011 20:10, Tony Duell wrote:
I did say 'oil-free' not 'lubricant free' :-)
More seriously, a tiny amount of graphite is probably a good idea, but I
will assure you that they will run a lot better with no lubricant than
they will if oily.
-tony
Leaf shutter (and diaphragm) blades must be
oil-free or they will stick
like crazy.
I was taught (by a optical technician) that some iris diaphragm and
shutter blades do get lubricated -- but only with a tiny, tiny amount of 
6 Apr
6 Apr
1:56 p.m.
> Something else to watch out for is keeping
anything silicone-based away
> from a camera. The silicone adsorbs to glass etc at a molecular level
> and is absolutely impossible to remove. I expect that doesn't apply to
On Wed, 6 Apr 2011, Tony Duell wrote:
Now that I didn't realise (not that I normally use
silicone lubricants),
thanks!
. . . and my Nikonos came with a small tube of silicone lubricant to put
on the O-ring that keeps the lens mount watertight.
4954
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4960
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ard＠p850ug1.demon.co.uk -
cisin＠xenosoft.com -
jonas＠otter.se -
pete＠dunnington.plus.com