19 Dec
2015
19 Dec
'15
3:41 p.m.
Folks,
I own an EAI TR-10 analog computer which sadly came without any patch cables
and accessories. Normally this wouldn't be a problem, BUT the TR-10 comes
with special resistive plugs which go at the ends of the patch leads. These
have a 4mm plug and socket with a 10k or 100k resistor in between. I can't
figure out a way to easily fabricate replacements. I can easily obtain 4mm
plugs and sockets, and solder a resistor between them, but when I try and
mount them on a short rigid tube all my efforts fail. The plug and socket
need to be twisted in opposite directions and any soldered joint just fails.
Any usggestions?
Does any one have some of these and if so how are they constructed?
Dave Wade
G4UGM
19 Dec
19 Dec
7:05 p.m.
On 19/12/2015 20:41, Dave Wade wrote:
I can easily obtain 4mm plugs and sockets, and solder
a resistor
between them, but when I try and mount them on a short rigid tube all
my efforts fail. The plug and socket need to be twisted in opposite
directions and any soldered joint just fails.
Any usggestions?
Are you trying to screw them into a tube? Could you instead push them
in and then fill the tube with epoxy or potting compound through a hole
in the side?
Could you make the tube in two short lengths, with a left-hand thread
between them; screw the plug into one part and then screw the socket
into the other while also screwing the two parts of the tube together?
Could you use a split (lengthways) tube, solder the resistor to the plug
and socket, and fit the tube on with epoxy?
Or if it doesn't need to be absolutely rigid, mould some Sugru round the
parts instead of using the tube?
--
Pete
7:34 p.m.
On Sat, Dec 19, 2015 at 7:05 PM, Pete Turnbull <pete at dunnington.plus.com>
wrote:
On 19/12/2015 20:41, Dave Wade wrote:
Bottom of this page?
http://www.analogmuseum.org/english/collection/eai/tr10/
I may not follow your meaning here. Can't you just leave patch connections
loose as long as the ends of connection is secure? My Donner 3500 for
example has required improvisation.
http://vintagecomputer.net/donner/Donner-3500_voltage-test-plugs.JPG
--
Bill
I can easily obtain 4mm plugs and sockets, and
solder a resistor
between them, but when I try and mount them on a short rigid tube all
my efforts fail. The plug and socket need to be twisted in opposite
directions and any soldered joint just fails.
Any usggestions?
Are you trying to screw them into a tube? Could you instead push them in
and then fill the tube with epoxy or potting compound through a hole in the
side?
Could you make the tube in two short lengths, with a left-hand thread
between them; screw the plug into one part and then screw the socket into
the other while also screwing the two parts of the tube together?
Could you use a split (lengthways) tube, solder the resistor to the plug
and socket, and fit the tube on with epoxy?
Or if it doesn't need to be absolutely rigid, mould some Sugru round the
parts instead of using the tube?
--
Pete
7:58 p.m.
-----Original Message-----
From: cctech [mailto:cctech-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of william
degnan
Sent: 20 December 2015 00:34
To: General Discussion: On-Topic Posts <cctech at classiccmp.org>
Subject: Re: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
On Sat, Dec 19, 2015 at 7:05 PM, Pete Turnbull <pete at dunnington.plus.com>
wrote:
> On 19/12/2015 20:41, Dave Wade wrote:
>
>> I can easily obtain 4mm plugs and sockets, and solder a resistor
>> between them, but when I try and mount them on a short rigid tube all
>> my efforts fail. The plug and socket need to be twisted in opposite
>> directions and any soldered joint just fails.
>>
>> Any usggestions?
>>
>
> Are you trying to screw them into a tube? Could you instead push them
> in and then fill the tube with epoxy or potting compound through a
> hole in the side?
I think this type of solution is the way its going but its not very neat compared with the
ones in the link below.
I was actually trying to use the sleeve that came with the plug and then push the socket
in the end.
>
> Could you make the tube in two short lengths, with a left-hand thread
> between them; screw the plug into one part and then screw the socket
> into the other while also screwing the two parts of the tube together?
>
I think I might manage using a longer tube and flexible hook up wire.
> Could you use a split (lengthways) tube, solder
the resistor to the
> plug and socket, and fit the tube on with epoxy?
>
That would work...
> Or if it doesn't need to be absolutely rigid,
mould some Sugru round
> the parts instead of using the tube?
>
Rigid is best as you need to fit a plug in the end and then plug it into the patch
panel..
--
Pete
Bottom of this page?
http://www.analogmuseum.org/english/collection/eai/tr10/
I may not follow your meaning here. Can't you just leave patch connections
loose as long as the ends of connection is secure? My Donner 3500 for
example has required improvisation.
http://vintagecomputer.net/donner/Donner-3500_voltage-test-plugs.JPG
--
The TR-10 has no input resistors in its OP Amps. You need to put them in the ends of the
cables as needed.
It?s a cludge but it makes converting an op amp to an integrator simpler...
Bill
Dave
9:09 p.m.
---------------------------- Original Message ----------------------------
Subject: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, December 20, 2015 6:41 am
To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic Posts'" <cctech at
classiccmp.org>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Folks,
I own an EAI TR-10 analog computer which sadly came without any patch cables
and accessories. Normally this wouldn't be a problem, BUT the TR-10 comes
with special resistive plugs which go at the ends of the patch leads. These
have a 4mm plug and socket with a 10k or 100k resistor in between. I can't
figure out a way to easily fabricate replacements. I can easily obtain 4mm
plugs and sockets, and solder a resistor between them, but when I try and
mount them on a short rigid tube all my efforts fail. The plug and socket
need to be twisted in opposite directions and any soldered joint just fails.
Any usggestions?
Does any one have some of these and if so how are they constructed?
Dave Wade
G4UGM
Would you be able to put up some photos of what you have, an original, and
with a ruler included for scale?
Steve.
20 Dec
20 Dec
12:46 p.m.
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
steven at malikoff.com
Sent: 20 December 2015 02:10
To: General Discussion: On-Topic Posts <cctech at classiccmp.org>
Subject: Re: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
---------------------------- Original Message ----------------------------
Subject: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, December 20, 2015 6:41 am
To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic Posts'" <cctech at
classiccmp.org>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I don't have anything! The last picture on this page shows the items:-
http://www.analogmuseum.org/english/collection/eai/tr10/
and the plugs on these are standard "4mm" wander plugs, so the part containing
the resistor must be about 1" to 1.5" long. There is a 4mm socket in the end and
either a 1k or 10k resistor.
Dave
Folks,
I own an EAI TR-10 analog computer which sadly came without any patch
cables and accessories. Normally this wouldn't be a problem, BUT the
TR-10 comes with special resistive plugs which go at the ends of the
patch leads. These have a 4mm plug and socket with a 10k or 100k
resistor in between. I can't figure out a way to easily fabricate
replacements. I can easily obtain 4mm plugs and sockets, and solder a
resistor between them, but when I try and mount them on a short rigid
tube all my efforts fail. The plug and socket need to be twisted in opposite
directions and any soldered joint just fails.
Any usggestions?
Does any one have some of these and if so how are they constructed?
Dave Wade
G4UGM
Would you be able to put up some photos of what you have, an original, and
with a ruler included for scale?
Steve.
5:23 p.m.
---------------------------- Original Message ----------------------------
Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
Date: Mon, December 21, 2015 3:46 am
To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts'" <cctalk
at classiccmp.org>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ah, ok, now I get it. Could you use two of the banana jack barrels, cut in half (machine
them would be better)
so that they can be contrarotated, then superglue or solvent glue the seam when tightened
against eachother?
Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
steven at malikoff.com
Sent: 20 December 2015 02:10
To: General Discussion: On-Topic Posts <cctech at classiccmp.org>
Subject: Re: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
---------------------------- Original Message ----------------------------
Subject: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, December 20, 2015 6:41 am
To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic Posts'" <cctech at
classiccmp.org>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I don't have anything! The last picture on this page shows the items:-
http://www.analogmuseum.org/english/collection/eai/tr10/
and the plugs on these are standard "4mm" wander plugs, so the part containing
the resistor must be about 1" to 1.5" long. There is a 4mm socket in the end and
either a 1k or 10k resistor.
Dave Folks,
I own an EAI TR-10 analog computer which sadly came without any patch
cables and accessories. Normally this wouldn't be a problem, BUT the
TR-10 comes with special resistive plugs which go at the ends of the
patch leads. These have a 4mm plug and socket with a 10k or 100k
resistor in between. I can't figure out a way to easily fabricate
replacements. I can easily obtain 4mm plugs and sockets, and solder a
resistor between them, but when I try and mount them on a short rigid
tube all my efforts fail. The plug and socket need to be twisted in opposite
directions and any soldered joint just fails.
Any usggestions?
Does any one have some of these and if so how are they constructed?
Dave Wade
G4UGM
Would you be able to put up some photos of what you have, an original, and
with a ruler included for scale?
5:43 p.m.
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
steven at malikoff.com
Sent: 20 December 2015 22:23
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
---------------------------- Original Message ----------------------------
Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
Date: Mon, December 21, 2015 3:46 am
To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts'"
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
containing the resistor must be about 1" to 1.5" long. There is a 4mm socket
in the end and either a 1k or 10k resistor.
If I cut them with a saw I end up with a gap. SuperGlue does not gap fill. I am kind of
leaning towards casting resin....
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
steven at malikoff.com
Sent: 20 December 2015 02:10
To: General Discussion: On-Topic Posts <cctech at classiccmp.org>
Subject: Re: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
---------------------------- Original Message
----------------------------
Subject: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, December 20, 2015 6:41 am
To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic Posts'" <cctech at
classiccmp.org>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
I don't have anything! The last picture on this page shows the items:-
http://www.analogmuseum.org/english/collection/eai/tr10/
and the plugs on these are standard "4mm" wander plugs, so the part Folks,
I own an EAI TR-10 analog computer which sadly came without any
patch cables and accessories. Normally this wouldn't be a problem,
BUT the
TR-10 comes with special resistive plugs which go at the ends of
the patch leads. These have a 4mm plug and socket with a 10k or
100k resistor in between. I can't figure out a way to easily
fabricate replacements. I can easily obtain 4mm plugs and sockets,
and solder a resistor between them, but when I try and mount them
on a short rigid tube all my efforts fail. The plug and socket need
to be twisted in opposite
directions and any soldered joint just fails.
Any usggestions?
Does any one have some of these and if so how are they constructed?
Dave Wade
G4UGM
Would you be able to put up some photos of what you have, an
original, and with a ruler included for scale?
Dave
Ah, ok, now I get it. Could you use two of the banana jack barrels, cut in half
(machine them would be better) so that they can be contrarotated, then
superglue or solvent glue the seam when tightened against eachother?
Steve.
5:55 p.m.
On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 2:43 PM, Dave Wade <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com> wrote:
that the
top on the second one is the correct length to glue onto the first.
-- Charles
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
steven at malikoff.com
Sent: 20 December 2015 22:23
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
If I cut them with a saw I end up with a gap. SuperGlue does not gap fill.
I am kind of leaning towards casting resin....
Sacrifice one: Cut the first one, and then cut a second one lower down so
6:20 p.m.
On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 2:55 PM, Charles Anthony <charles.unix.pro at gmail.com
wrote:
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 2:43 PM, Dave Wade <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
>> > steven at malikoff.com
>> > Sent: 20 December 2015 22:23
>> > To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
>> > <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>> > Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>>
>> If I cut them with a saw I end up with a gap. SuperGlue does not gap
>> fill. I am kind of leaning towards casting resin....
>>
>> Sacrifice one: Cut the first one, and then cut a second one lower down so
> that the top on the second one is the correct length to glue onto the first.
>
>
Or, rather then cutting it, remove the inside threads on the shell, and
glue it back on to the plug, rather than screwing it on.
-- Charles
7:10 p.m.
On 12/20/2015 03:20 PM, Charles Anthony wrote:
Or, rather then cutting it, remove the inside threads
on the shell,
and glue it back on to the plug, rather than screwing it on.
I don't have any to show you, but I do remember that some of these
banana plugs used an un-threaded barrel, employing a small (head-less)
screw on the side that threaded into the top of the plug fixture. In
the long run, probably better, as they could not be unscrewed by
twisting on the barrel.
--Chuck
10:21 p.m.
On 12/20/2015 04:10 PM, Chuck Guzis wrote:
I don't have any to show you, but I do remember
that some of these
banana plugs used an un-threaded barrel, employing a small
(head-less) screw on the side that threaded into the top of the plug
fixture. In the long run, probably better, as they could not be
unscrewed by twisting on the barrel.
Here's an example from Tenna:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1656887.pdf
--Chuck
10:49 p.m.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Guzis" <cclist at sydex.com>
To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk at
classiccmp.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2015 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
On 12/20/2015 04:10 PM, Chuck Guzis wrote:
And then epoxy something like this into the other end (after connecting the resistor of
course ;-):
http://www.showmecables.com/product/banana-jack-panel-mount-plastic-red.aspx
Use a piece of tubing if it's not a good fit or too short.
Make sure they're the right size; lots to choose from on eBay and elsewhere.
m
I don't have any to show you, but I do
remember that some of these
banana plugs used an un-threaded barrel, employing a small
(head-less) screw on the side that threaded into the top of the plug
fixture. In the long run, probably better, as they could not be
unscrewed by twisting on the barrel.
Here's an example from Tenna:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1656887.pdf
--Chuck
11:25 p.m.
On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 4:10 PM, Chuck Guzis <cclist at sydex.com> wrote:
On 12/20/2015 03:20 PM, Charles Anthony wrote:
Or, rather then cutting it, remove the inside threads on the shell,
It also occurs to me that for a patch cable: a measured length of some kind
of resistive wire between two plugs rather than a resistor?
-- Charles
and glue it back on to the plug, rather than
screwing it on.
I don't have any to show you, but I do remember that some of these banana
plugs used an un-threaded barrel, employing a small (head-less) screw on
the side that threaded into the top of the plug fixture. In the long run,
probably better, as they could not be unscrewed by twisting on the barrel.
11:46 p.m.
On 12/20/2015 08:25 PM, Charles Anthony wrote:
It also occurs to me that for a patch cable: a
measured length of
some kind of resistive wire between two plugs rather than a
resistor?
I don't think so. Vacuum tubes (or valves if you will) are
high-impedance devices. Those resistors are likely in the tens and
hundreds of kilohms.
--Chuck
8 p.m.
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Charles
Anthony
Sent: 20 December 2015 23:20
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Subject: Re: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 2:55 PM, Charles Anthony
<charles.unix.pro at gmail.com
that the top on the second one is the correct length to glue onto the
first.
Or, rather then cutting it, remove the inside threads on the shell, and glue it
back on to the plug, rather than screwing it on.
That?s about the best method, but there is not much room for extra lead to push back into
the plug...
I really wonder how these were made originally they look so neat...
wrote:
On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 2:43 PM, Dave Wade <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
wrote:
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
steven at malikoff.com
Sent: 20 December 2015 22:23
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
If I cut them with a saw I end up with a gap. SuperGlue does not gap
fill. I am kind of leaning towards casting resin....
Sacrifice one: Cut the first one, and then cut a second one lower
down so
-- Charles
21 Dec
21 Dec
12:16 a.m.
On Mon, 21 Dec 2015, Dave G4UGM wrote:
On Sun, 20 Dec 2015, Charles Anthony wrote:
One of the plugs in the photo looks like it might have a small roll pin or
setscrew holding it together. The photographer didn't have it directly
facing the camera and may have intentionally not photographed that side of
the plugs for aesthetic reasons.
Or, rather then cutting it, remove the inside
threads on the shell, and
glue it back on to the plug, rather than screwing it on.
That?s about the best method, but there is not much room for extra lead
to push back into the plug...
I really wonder how these were made originally they look so neat... 
22 Dec
22 Dec
4:34 p.m.
On 2015-12-20 23:43, Dave Wade wrote:
Actually, super glue does gap fill. Use the thick stuff and sprinkle
baking soda on the glue after applying. It will set rock hard instantly.
The plastic model crowd use this for gap filling instead of putty sometimes.
Jonas
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
steven at malikoff.com
Sent: 20 December 2015 22:23
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
---------------------------- Original Message ----------------------------
Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
Date: Mon, December 21, 2015 3:46 am
To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts'"
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
containing the resistor must be about 1" to 1.5" long. There is a 4mm socket
in the end and either a 1k or 10k resistor.
If I cut them
with a saw I end up with a gap. SuperGlue does not gap fill. I am kind of leaning towards
casting resin....
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
steven at malikoff.com
Sent: 20 December 2015 02:10
To: General Discussion: On-Topic Posts <cctech at classiccmp.org>
Subject: Re: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
---------------------------- Original Message
----------------------------
Subject: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, December 20, 2015 6:41 am
To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic Posts'" <cctech at
classiccmp.org>
---------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
> Folks,
>
> I own an EAI TR-10 analog computer which sadly came without any
> patch cables and accessories. Normally this wouldn't be a problem,
> BUT the
> TR-10 comes with special resistive plugs which go at the ends of
> the patch leads. These have a 4mm plug and socket with a 10k or
> 100k resistor in between. I can't figure out a way to easily
> fabricate replacements. I can easily obtain 4mm plugs and sockets,
> and solder a resistor between them, but when I try and mount them
> on a short rigid tube all my efforts fail. The plug and socket need
> to be twisted in opposite
directions and any soldered joint just fails.
> Any usggestions?
>
> Does any one have some of these and if so how are they constructed?
>
> Dave Wade
> G4UGM
>
Would you be able to put up some photos of what you have, an
original, and with a ruler included for scale?
I don't have anything! The last picture on this page shows the items:-
http://www.analogmuseum.org/english/collection/eai/tr10/
and the plugs on these are standard "4mm" wander plugs, so the part Dave
Ah, ok, now I get it. Could you use
two of the banana jack barrels, cut in half
(machine them would be better) so that they can be contrarotated, then
superglue or solvent glue the seam when tightened against eachother? Steve.
4:44 p.m.
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Jonas
Otter
Sent: 22 December 2015 21:35
To: cctalk at classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
On 2015-12-20 23:43, Dave Wade wrote:
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
>> steven at malikoff.com
>> Sent: 20 December 2015 22:23
>> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
>> <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>> Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>>
>> ---------------------------- Original Message
>> ----------------------------
>> Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>> From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
>> Date: Mon, December 21, 2015 3:46 am
>> To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts'"
>> <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>> -----
>>
>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
>>>> steven at malikoff.com
>>>> Sent: 20 December 2015 02:10
>>>> To: General Discussion: On-Topic Posts <cctech at classiccmp.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ---------------------------- Original Message
>>>> ----------------------------
>>>> Subject: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>>>> From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
>>>> Date: Sun, December 20, 2015 6:41 am
>>>> To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic Posts'"
<cctech at classiccmp.org>
>>>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> --
>>> -----
>>>
>>>> Folks,
>>>>
>>>> I own an EAI TR-10 analog computer which sadly came without any
>>>> patch cables and accessories. Normally this wouldn't be a problem,
>>>> BUT the
>>>> TR-10 comes with special resistive plugs which go at the ends of
>>>> the patch leads. These have a 4mm plug and socket with a 10k or
>>>> 100k resistor in between. I can't figure out a way to easily
>>>> fabricate replacements. I can easily obtain 4mm plugs and sockets,
>>>> and solder a resistor between them, but when I try and mount them
>>>> on a short rigid tube all my efforts fail. The plug and socket
>>>> need to be twisted in opposite
>>> directions and any soldered joint just fails.
>>>> Any usggestions?
>>>>
>>>> Does any one have some of these and if so how are they
constructed?
>>>>
>>>> Dave Wade
>>>> G4UGM
>>>>
>>> Would you be able to put up some photos of what you have, an
>>> original, and with a ruler included for scale?
>>>
>> I don't have anything! The last picture on this page shows the
>> items:-
>>
>> http://www.analogmuseum.org/english/collection/eai/tr10/
>>
>> and the plugs on these are standard "4mm" wander plugs, so the part
> containing the resistor must be about 1" to 1.5" long. There is a 4mm
> socket in the end and either a 1k or 10k resistor.
>> Dave
> Ah, ok, now I get it. Could you use two of the banana jack barrels,
> cut in half (machine them would be better) so that they can be
> contrarotated, then superglue or solvent glue the seam when tightened
against
eachother?
> If I cut them with a saw I end up with a gap. SuperGlue does not gap am kind of leaning towards casting resin....
Actually, super glue does gap fill. Use the thick stuff and sprinkle
baking
soda
Steve.
on the glue after applying. It will set rock hard
instantly.
The plastic model crowd use this for gap filling instead of putty
sometimes.
That the stuff they call Gorilla Glue or is that something else?
Jonas
25 Dec
25 Dec
11:12 a.m.
On 2015-12-22 22:44, Dave G4UGM wrote:
fill. I
Gorilla Glue is polyurethane I
think. I mean the thick viscosity type of
cyanoacrylate glue you can buy for instance in hobby shops, like this
stuff:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7174__HobbyKing_Super_Glue_CA_50…
It doesn't really matter which brand, what you want is cyanoacrylate and
not the runny kind. Any decent shop selling models should have it, or a
Games Workshop store (I think it is the preferred glue for building
Warhammer figures).
Jonas
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Jonas
Otter
Sent: 22 December 2015 21:35
To: cctalk at classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
On 2015-12-20 23:43, Dave Wade wrote:
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
>> steven at malikoff.com
>> Sent: 20 December 2015 22:23
>> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
>> <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>> Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>>
>> ---------------------------- Original Message
>> ----------------------------
>> Subject: RE: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>> From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
>> Date: Mon, December 21, 2015 3:46 am
>> To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts'"
>> <cctalk at classiccmp.org>
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>> -----
>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of
>>>> steven at malikoff.com
>>>> Sent: 20 December 2015 02:10
>>>> To: General Discussion: On-Topic Posts <cctech at classiccmp.org>
>>>> Subject: Re: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ---------------------------- Original Message
>>>> ----------------------------
>>>> Subject: EAI TR-10 Patch Plugs
>>>> From: "Dave Wade" <dave.g4ugm at gmail.com>
>>>> Date: Sun, December 20, 2015 6:41 am
>>>> To: "'General Discussion: On-Topic Posts'"
<cctech at classiccmp.org>
>>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> --
>>> -----
>>>
>>>> Folks,
>>>>
>>>> I own an EAI TR-10 analog computer which sadly came without any
>>>> patch cables and accessories. Normally this wouldn't be a problem,
>>>> BUT the
>>>> TR-10 comes with special resistive plugs which go at the ends of
>>>> the patch leads. These have a 4mm plug and socket with a 10k or
>>>> 100k resistor in between. I can't figure out a way to easily
>>>> fabricate replacements. I can easily obtain 4mm plugs and sockets,
>>>> and solder a resistor between them, but when I try and mount them
>>>> on a short rigid tube all my efforts fail. The plug and socket
>>>> need to be twisted in opposite
>>> directions and any soldered joint just fails.
>>>> Any usggestions?
>>>>
>>>> Does any one have some of these and if so how are they
constructed?
>>>> Dave Wade
>>>> G4UGM
>>>>
>>> Would you be able to put up some photos of what you have, an
>>> original, and with a ruler included for scale?
>>>
>> I don't have anything! The last picture on this page shows the
>> items:-
>>
>> http://www.analogmuseum.org/english/collection/eai/tr10/
>>
>> and the plugs on these are standard "4mm" wander plugs, so the part
> containing the resistor must be about 1" to 1.5" long. There is a 4mm
> socket in the end and either a 1k or 10k resistor.
>> Dave
> Ah, ok, now I get it. Could you use two of the banana jack barrels,
> cut in half (machine them would be better) so that they can be
> contrarotated, then superglue or solvent glue the seam when tightened
against
eachother?
> If I cut them with a saw I end up with a gap. SuperGlue does not gap am kind of leaning towards casting resin....
Actually, super glue does gap fill. Use the thick stuff and sprinkle
baking soda
Steve.
on the glue after applying. It will set rock hard
instantly.
The plastic model crowd use this for gap filling instead of putty
sometimes.
That the stuff they call Gorilla Glue or is that something else?
Jonas
3132
days inactive
3138
days old
19 comments
9 participants
participants (9)
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billdegnan＠gmail.com -
cclist＠sydex.com -
charles.unix.pro＠gmail.com -
dave.g4ugm＠gmail.com -
jonas＠otter.se -
mhs.stein＠gmail.com -
pete＠dunnington.plus.com -
steven＠malikoff.com -
tothwolf＠concentric.net