Well my little TK70 here has been squeaking and it looks like the
capstans are frozen/bad. They don't move up and down and they don't spin
well.
Fortunately I have a dead TK70 with good capstans so I figured I would
swap them. Unfortunately I don't have a maintenance manual (does anyone
have one?) so I had to figure out alignment myself. Capstan alignment
seems to be critical, if they are off the unit don't work...
Anyway here is my procedure so far to get the unit to load and unload
tapes on the bench. Not perfect, but a start....
Pulling the capstans requires you to remove the two lock nuts on top
first. I recommend you count the turns from all the way tight if
possible as alignment is critical, and the front and rear ones can be at
different relative heights.
Anyway if you didn't do this you need to adjust the rear height to trip
the optical sensors and the front one to handle tape slew.
Note: All the below is done with the unit on a bench, with a PC power
supply.
The first step is to adjust the rear capstan so the leader tape's wide
hole for the end of tape-stop marker allows light from both LEDs/sensors
to pass through. You do this by tightening the bolt down till snug, then
back off 1/2 turn.
Turn on unit, see if it unlatches. It probably will try to turn the tape
4 times then error out. Fine. Power down, back off the bolt 1/4 turn and
try again.
At some point it will open the latch. Note the # of turns of the bolt
then keep going 1/4 turn at a time till it doesn't work again (too
high). The proper value for your unit in turns is halfway between too
low and too high. Reset the bolt and verify it works several times. For
my unit the right height was about 1.5 turns out.
Then you need to adjust the front capstan. The problem is if the front
is higher or lower than the back you have tape slew errors. Start at the
level of the rear one based on the # of turns minus a bit (1/2 turn).
Then load a tape. It will load, but when you try to unload things will
go bad, the tape will just move forward onto the take up reel 4 times,
and the unit will error out. The reason is it has to read the tape as it
turns to know a tape is loaded (as opposed to the leader where it looks
for the end of leader light). If the capstans are not holding the tape
level against the head it can't read.
Each time it moves forward a bit, try bringing the front up 1/8 turn at
a time. Eventually it will speed up, that means it can read the tape on
one of those moves. It should then unload. Now you have the front
basically set. It will unload the tape, cycle it a few times to make
sure it's working.
That's where I am now. Next step is to see if it will read the tape in
the computer. I'll work on that tomorrow.
Note if you ever shine an led flashlight into a running TK50 or 70 all
hell will break loose as the system will see the light on the tape
sensor and think it has hit BOT. Even worse is if both LED sensors
trigger, then it thinks it is at end of leader and it will throw tape
everywhere.
Ask me how I know....
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So.... TK70 is working again, and the solution was not what I thought.
Yesterday I spent the afternoon adjusting the capstan bolts, first one,
then the other to see if the height adjustment worked. I found that the
rear one (also known as the encoder) was the most sensitive to bolt
tension. Then I watched it run and realized something:
When the TK70 starts up without a tape in the unit it moves the leader a
tiny bit. I thought it was looking for the end of leader hole and was
missing it due to alignment, but that's not what happens as there is
only a single LED transceiver watching the tape. Thus it had to be
something else, and the only thing it could be is the velocity sensor.
The velocity sensor is a part of the rear capstan, I took it apart to
see what the heck was going on and figured out the problem: The top
bearing has an imperfection and is not allowing the capstan to spin on
the bearing. Instead it spins under the bolt, which causes it to drag
and read speed improperly. That little jog of the leader during loading
moves the capstan a bit and allows the unit to verify it works. Thus
different tensions on the bolt were allowing it to move (somewhat) but
not well enough for the tape drive to work.
So..... I swapped in the capstan from the broken TK70. Swapping it is a
*job* and while there I took the old one apart and saw that it's pretty
complex inside but if the bolt is not tight enough the sensor disc in
there rubs against the diffraction grating below the LED.
Put in the other capstan, put the drive together, and it works. Adjusted
the bolts so they ride the tape with a minimum of edge touching and it
still works (the head does adjust for the capstan height.
The bad news is the tachometer capstan is in pretty bad shape, the
chrome flaked off the top and the bottom and it's not perfectly smooth.
I may try to sand the flanges with 2,000 grit sandpaper to smooth it out
but unlike the front one it doesn't have to deal with tapes that have
varying heights so as long as it is aligned with the take up reel (which
doesn't go up and down) it might be ok.
Very interesting little project. I guess my last question is this: Is
there a difference between the tachometer capstan of a TK50 and a TK70?
Maybe I can swap one from a broken TK50 I have (I have one good one too)
and get the second 70 running as a spare. Or maybe I should just
troubleshoot the broken TK50 now that I am smarter...
Chris
Since my last post I've gotten pretty good at getting these tape drives
working and I think I see the reasons for a lot of the tape wear: Drag
on the capstans.
The rear one (tach) is probably the biggest problem, but on 3 of the 4
units I have here (2 TK50, 2 TK70) the bearings are not turning and as a
result the capstan is dragging along the bolt at the top, tensioned by
the spring on the axle. The result is a lot of drag at best, which will
require the unit to apply extra tension to keep the tape moving across
the capstan and encoder at a nice 75 inches per second. This translates
into more wear at the head, more shedding, and more crap on the heads
that people clean till the tape goes south.
Also the capstans should "float" on their axles, probably to deal with
slightly misaligned tapes. If you push down on the capstan and it
doesn't move then it is really bound up and needs a serious cleaning.
The solution is to clean out and lubricate the bearings. To do this for
the front you can unbolt and remove the capstan. A hint on unbolting:
Turn the bolt in a tightening direction and count the rotations before
it stops at the bottom of travel. Should be a turn or two. Note this for
each capstan, that way you can put the bolt back on at about the same
height.
Once the capstan is off, you simply wash top and bottom bearings out
with 95% isopropyl to get out the old oil and gunk, let it dry, then use
watch oil and a watch oiler to put about 6 small drops of oil on the
inside bearing face. As the oil seeps into the bearing you will notice
you can actually turn it with your oiler.
The rear one is a bit more complicated: The bottom bearing holds the
encoder wheel on the shaft, so unless you want to take apart the encoder
(moderately difficult, I'll write that another day if anyone's
interested) focus on the top bearing. Remove the bolt, put a few drops
of isopropyl first to loosen up the old oil, let it dry, then put six
drops of new oil from an oiler tip on the bearing. It should now turn a
*lot* easier.
Then assemble, clean off any excess oil, clean the tape head and guide
and give it a try. I usually retract the leader before working on all of
this to get it out of the way, re-hooking it is pretty simple. The
result should be a unit that runs with just enough tension to spin the
encoder (good) without drag on the front capstan (better) and minimal
extra pressure on the tape head (best).
I could probably rebuild these for people if they would want it, what
would be a fair price?
So far I'm happy: I am able to back up my 300gb ESDI disk on a single
tape and the drives are pretty quick all things considered. RT11 backups
are easy at 33mb, and I may just load all of my RL02's on tape images so
I can have them around.
CZ