Jay, Thanks for the info. I tried to call you yesterday. The 2114 was one of the things that I wanted to talk to you about. I have a couple of other questions. How hard is it to find media for the 7900? (BTW I do have a PT reader and the 7900 PSU is there and it's all in an original HP cabinet.) How do I get the 7900 open? Aren't you supposed to apply power get them open? What is the capacity of the 7900 drive? Where do the IO cables come out of the 2114? There were NO cables connected to this one. I pulled the entire chassis out of the rack. There are Buffered TTY boards and such in the chassis. I suspect that the IO cables plug into those kind of cards and are supposed to run directly out the back. If so then it's missing the cables. BTW here's list of the cards that are in it. Note that the ,s in this list are as shown on the cards. I'll use ; to separate the items. A1,2; A1,2; A3,4; A5; A6; A6,7; A8-11; A8-11; A8-11; A8-11; A8-11; A12; A13; A14; A15; Bus IO; Bffr'd TTY Reg; Dual D/a Conv; Relay Out Reg; Gnd True I/O; Bffr'd TTY Reg; Multiplex I/O; Time Base Gen. On the I/O Config Chart it shows "HP Data 70", "TTY 70" and "Multiplex IO". There are only three cards in the IO Expander. They are; A112, A112 and Univ Intrf. Joe At 10:59 PM 1/13/04 -0600, you wrote:

Damm! How'd that happen? At least I know somebody's reading my messages :-/ I checked my outbox and it looks like this started yesterday morning. Joe At 01:11 PM 1/14/04 +0000, you wrote: (-39.1 C) ft) http://penguincentral.com/penguincentral.html

You wrote... Sorry, work has been such a royal PITA I turned my cellphone off yesterday and when it's on I've recently taken to not answering calls from numbers I don't recognize. My apologies! :\ Fairly difficult. I may have one or two spare we can talk trade, if you can find them in a real shop that deals in media, expect $140 each. Very nice! You have to apply power to get the front door to open so you can remove the media, that is safe to do. What I was referring to about don't power it up until cleaning and inspection is really dont hit the LOAD switch. You also have to be VERY carefull about removing the media in an unknown condition drive. If the heads did come out (the carriage extended during moving), when you open the front door it tilts the media up. You grab the media and pull it out. If the heads loaded, this action will bend the head arms and scrape the heads across the media and then you're pretty screwed!!! Here is what I would suggest: 1) extend the drive out of the rack on it's rails all the way. Make sure the anti-tip legs are out, if the cabinet has them. Be carefull about tipover. 1a) make really sure the drive is unplugged from any power source 2) Take the top cover off the drive, it's about 4 or 6 screws on top 3) Visually inspect that the carriage is all the way back. It's ok to move it forward (if they are all the way back) maybe 1 inch, you'll feel the detent. Of course, watch that you don't move the carriage so far forward that the heads go out on the media - you can see if they do pretty clearly. Then push the carriage back - you should again feel the detent and you'll see the heads get spread apart slightly on the plastic block thingy between the head arms. 4) Now that you're sure the heads are back, you can apply power, and in about 3 seconds the "door unlocked" light should come on. Ok to open the door and pull the media out then, and power off. While it's on and "door unlocked" you probably want to look and see if the "drive fault" light comes on or not. 5) As you'll tell from the detent pressure when you move the carriage, it doesn't take much of a jolt for the carriage to come out, so be carefull moving this drive. 6) If you can't move the carriage by hand at all, look around the carriage assembly to see if there is a metal bracket screwed in that obviously prevents the carriage from moving. Remove it - well, once you're ready to work on the drive. 7) Be cognizant of the detent - your detent may be tighter than mine. Just be aware as you try to move the carriage forward that once it does pass the detent it will move very easily, and you dont want to yank it suddenly forward so the heads go over (on) the media. 8) While the drive is extended, open the bottom of the drive, again, should be about 4 or 6 screws. With the bottom cover removed you should be able to see the power regulator board. On this board are some nicad batteries, I think about 3 or 4. Take these out and go buy new ones. They are not a particularly hard to find battery, batteries plus should have them. These batteries are what retracts the carriage if power is lost while the heads are loaded. You want to be very sure you have a good set, or if you trip a breaker or hit the power switch before the unload switch you'll be very sorry :) 9) As a result of the new nicad batteries, once they are installed, turn on the drive and let it sit for a few hours (do not load the heads [do not hit the load switch]) so that the batteries get charged up well. 10) I can't stress enough how clean the inside of the drive must be. Clean everything you see very very thoroughly. Be carefull of the head wires on the right, they are quite thin and fragile. Just one spec of dust is all you need to destroy your heads and platter. HP suggests masking tape around your fingers sticky side out and touching everything to get dust & particles - also 91 iso and kimwipes. 11) Under the drive take out the filter, and the big orange blower tube. Clean the filter best as you can, and run a big brush through the tube several times, get it all out. Clean the squirrel cage blower very thoroughly. I usually take the squirrel cage out and use a toothbrush with solvent, the dust on the squirrel cage fan is usually compacted and hard. Pay attention to the chamber where the squirrel cage fan is too. When you take out the filter, the bottom (fixed) platter will be exposed. Be VERY carefull not to knock any dust up there, or drag a wire or tool across it. I normally tape a cut to fit file folder card over the opening while I'm cleaning the rest. 11a) clean the upper and lower heads on both the fixed and removable platters with a qtip and 91% ISO. Be very gentle! 11b) it's best to clean the fixed platter. I seem to recall there is an opening in the casing to do this. I'll check where it is when I get home. 12) Disassemble your media cartridge, and clean it thoroughly. Get EVERY spec of dust out. Put a padded towel on a table, put a few kimwipes down, and put the bare platter on it. Clean both sides thoroughly with ISO 91 and kimwipes. Good idea to buff it too. Do NOT use anything other than kimwipes. Reassemble the cartridge. 13) It's ok to run the drive with covers off for short periods. Leave the top cover off and put in the media and power up. Hit the load switch. The heads will load in 25 seconds. Count till about 23 seconds, or, when the heads start to extend, and hit the unload switch immediately. Repeat this process several times. What you're trying to do is, when you hit the load switch the blowers come on, thus expelling any particles from the fixed drive chamber and the media cartridge. Doing this a few times gives a good blowout before you actually try to let the heads fly. 14) Now, hit the load switch, and pray. Watch carefully after 30 seconds and see the heads load. Listen very carefully for any sounds of HDI and soon as the heads are over the surface, hit unload. Do this a few times (getting the heads off soon as they start flying). Then, hit load and let the heads come out and sit. Listen very carefully for HDI. If you hear any wisps or clinks or drags, hit unload and find out why. 15) If the heads load and fly for 30 seconds after the load switch is hit, look at the front of the drive. If you see "drive fault" hit unload and power the drive off. You'll need some help troubleshooting from there. If instead of drive fault, after 30 seconds you get the "drive ready" light, you're all cool. Of course, you MAY have a burned out "ready" light, be aware of that. Those are the big points I can think of. It was a long time ago that I refurbed my 7900A, some of the specifics above may refer to a 7906 which is more recent in my head, but the main gist should all be correct. 5mb. 2.5mb on the removable platter, and 2.5 on the fixed platter underneath. Unless you have a 7901A, which doesn't have a fixed platter in which case it's 2.5mb. I'm not up on the 2114. It's the same as the 2100 and 21MX, only slightly different :) There should be one section of the card cage for the memory subsystem, and another section of the card cage for I/O cards, and another section for the cpu cards. The disc drive should hook up to a "13210" disc controller (two card set) in the I/O section, same place roughly where you see the buffered tty board. and Again, I'm not up on the 2114, totally different series than the 2100 and 21MX series. But, as I said, if there's no cables running from the drive to the cpu, then check the back of the drive. On the back right of the drive, there should be two slots. One slot should have a terminator card plugged in, usually with little extraction handles. In front of this, 1/2 inch closer to the back of the drive, should be an edge card connector sticking straight up, this is what your drive to cpu cable would connect to. This cable may be connected to the drive but the other end may be just loose in the bottom of the rack. Or the cable may be in the bottom of the rack not connected to anything. The cable, on both ends, should say "7900" or "13210" on the hoods, but this frequently wears off. If you don't have a cable set, I can get you the pinouts for the cable, but it's not easy to find the end connectors. I may or may not have a spare 7900 cable, they aren't common at all. A14; Hummm... those are most likely the cpu cards. Are you sure you read these off the card extractor handles, and not off the chassis? They sound like slot designations. No, wait... Ax should be cpu cards. But I'm very suprised there is so many cpu cards in a 2114. Maybe they combined the cpu and memory sections on the 2114. Memory boards should be pretty obvious visually. I know the 2100 and 21MX but not the 2114. Should be similar, but my knowledge may be a bit off for the 2114. Bus I/O - pretty sure this would be the board that connects to the expansion chassis buffrd tty - this is a 12531 board, for a system console. Depending on the exact part number, could be 20ma current loop, could be rs232, could be both, I forget the max baud rate, I think 2400. Depending on the exact part number, you probably have to solder jumpers to change settings. Dual D/A conv, relay out reg, gnd tru I/O - these are all data acquisition stuff, perhaps one for the paper tape reader multiplex I/O - good question, can you get part numbers for this? My first blush guess would be multiple serial ports? TBG - provides system interrupt via programmable delay - a clock of sorts. Used by most everything. This is odd - there should be a 13210 two board set for the 7900. The paper tape reader should be using an 8-bit duplex register, forget the part number, something like 12566. However, I have heard really old HP's hooked the paper tape up to a different kind of board than I'm used to using, maybe the multiplex I/O. What I need are the part numbers off the I/O boards. This were normally written on the extractor handles. If not, take out the card and look for a number like the following format "13210-60002". The first number is the board type, the second number means many different things - options, field replacement vs. factory install, etc. "Multiplex Doesn't ring any bells to me. Maybe RTE device addresses. That's just odd to me. I/O cards are not called Axxx, I/O card are called things like 13210, 13181, 13183, 13215, etc. Look on the cards themselves. Hope this helps! Jay --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

You wrote... picture I believe the manual states something to the effect of "mechanically equivalent to an IBM 2313", but NOT interchangeable. There is a major thing to watch out for here. The disk cartridges are virtually identical between the 7900, and the 7905/06. However, one is a 50 mil platter and one is a 75 mil platter. I forget which one goes with which drive. I believe the 75 mil is 7900 and 50 mil is 7905/06 but I will verify this for sure. Most media has an HP part number on it that will tell you for sure, but once you get used to looking at them you can tell easily by opening the cartridge access door and looking at the platter (thick or thin). Put one media in the wrong drive and it won't work, put the other media in the wrong drive and you're gauranteed a very expensive and time consuming set of repairs :) To my knowledge, the cartridges used in the 7900/05/06 are not the same as in other common 14" drives I've run into at least. You may also run into problems using other media due to the certification of the density of the platter. I THINK the ones HP used were 2200? and They are a AA form factor nicad battery. Read the specs off the battery and get replacements just like it. I got mine at "batteries plus", it's a chain of battery stores here. YES there is a reason. The two heads for the removable platter and the two heads for the fixed platter are on the same armature. You can NOT run the drive at all without the removable media in place. They are used to retract the voice coil, which holds both sets of heads. They are not independent, so the nicads are for both. Air blows from the vents in front (replace the foam in the access door by the way), through the squirrel cage to the filter. The filter splits the airflow in two. One (through the big orange tube) blows over the power transistors on the regulator board at the bottom. The other air flow goes into the bottom (fixed) platter chamber. A hole in the top of the bottom chamber lets the air blow into the media cartridge casing (when you put the media in place and close the door, a trap door in the bottom of the media opens right over the hole in the top of the fixed chamber). All air is exhausted out the opening where the heads go in and out. have Then it does have a front and back section, back section for memory. In the front, there should be some designation as to what slots are for cpu cards and what slots are for I/O cards. The 2100 for example has blue on the cpu card section and red on the I/O card section (as the slots are different electrically), and a black section for the memory. Sounds like the core memory section on the 2114 is VERY different from the core section on the 2100 (and 2116). Ok, with the card numbers off the circuit boards I could probably tell you more. I'd recommend going to great lengths to find the docs that supposedly came with the system!! Jay --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]

How do you get of this list? -----Original Message----- From: cctech-bounces(a)classiccmp.org [mailto:cctech-bounces@classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Joe R. Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 12:31 PM To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts Subject: Re: HP 2114A value?? At 01:03 PM 1/14/04 -0600, you wrote: You're darned tooten! Thanks for the advice. Joe

On Wed, 2004-01-14 at 18:09, ronbain wrote: Here's how to unsubscribe: First, ask your Internet Provider to mail you an Unsubscribing Kit. Then follow these directions. The kit will most likely be the standard no-fault type. Depending on requirements, System A and/or System B can be used. When operating System A, depress lever and a plastic dalkron unsubscriber will be dispensed through the slot immediately underneath. When you have fastened the adhesive lip, attach connection marked by the large "X" outlet hose. Twist the silver- coloured ring one inch below the connection point until you feel it lock. The kit is now ready for use. The Cin-Eliminator is activated by the small switch on the lip. When securing, twist the ring back to its initial condition, so that the two orange lines meet. Disconnect. Place the dalkron unsubscriber in the vacuum receptacle to the rear. Activate by pressing the blue button. The controls for System B are located on the opposite side. The red release switch places the Cin-Eliminator into position; it can be adjusted manually up or down by pressing the blue manual release button. The opening is self- adjusting. To secure after use, press the green button, which simultaneously activates the evaporator and returns the Cin-Eliminator to its storage position. You may log off if the green exit light is on over the evaporator. If the red light is illuminated, one of the Cin-Eliminator requirements has not been properly implemented. Press the "List Guy" call button on the right of the evaporator. He will secure all facilities from his control panel. To use the Auto-Unsub, first undress and place all your clothes in the clothes rack. Put on the velcro slippers located in the cabinet immediately below. Enter the shower, taking the entire kit with you. On the control panel to your upper right upon entering you will see a "Shower seal" button. Press to activate. A green light will then be illuminated immediately below. On the intensity knob, select the desired setting. Now depress the Auto-Unsub activation lever. Bathe normally. The Auto-Unsub will automatically go off after three minutes unless you activate the "Manual off" override switch by flipping it up. When you are ready to leave, press the blue "Shower seal" release button. The door will open and you may leave. Please remove the velcro slippers and place them in their container. If you prefer the ultrasonic log-off mode, press the indicated blue button. When the twin panels open, pull forward by rings A & B. The knob to the left, just below the blue light, has three settings, low, medium or high. For normal use, the medium setting is suggested. After these settings have been made, you can activate the device by switching to the "ON" position the clearly marked red switch. If during the unsubscribing operation you wish to change the settings, place the "manual off" override switch in the "OFF" position. You may now make the change and repeat the cycle. When the green exit light goes on, you may log off and have lunch. Please close the door behind you. (Thanks to Keleigh Hardie on the AMClist)

I believe I have the pinouts in a manual. I'll check! Jay ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe R." <rigdonj(a)cfl.rr.com> To: "General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts" <cctalk(a)classiccmp.org> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 4:20 PM Subject: RE: HP 2114A value?? pin

There is definitely a way to do this. I forgot what it is! I seem to recall it's a molex connector you just leave open. I'll have to look at my 7900 later. Jay