Also worthy of mention on some cleaning is Bon-Ami. It gives you a nice
cleaening job without tearing up the finish like cleanser does. I use it a
lot lot polishing compound (I use white compound on occasion as well) but
with less force and more for cleaning than actual polishing.
When I worked for Jabil rebuilding Handspring handheld PDA's this last
January they had a orange based solvent remover made by 3M but on plastics
it would haze the finish. Gave you the smell of tangerines in your sinuses
all day too.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org
[mailto:owner-classiccmp@classiccmp.org]On Behalf Of John Foust
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 9:04 AM
To: classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org
Subject: Re: Citrisolv?
At 09:45 PM 4/10/01 -0700, you wrote:
Speaking of solvents, anybody have experience with
commercial grade
Citrisolv? (D-limene)
Things I plan to clean; a batch of gummy old mac floppy drives, general
dirty computer stuff, and maybe a few spots on the carpet. Any
experienced
people have some tips?
In terms of restoration, it's best to start with the least
nasty or destructive cleaners first, and proceed to the big guns
later if the others don't work.
When cleaning microscopes and optics, I'll start with
compressed air, then a lens cleaning tissue, and depending on
the surface (optical or not) I'll proceed to lens cleaner,
a spray cleaner something like Cinch or 409, to the
Simple Green style of cleaner (diluted or not), to mechanical
abrasion of a 3M ScotchBrite pad, and/or mixed with an
aforementioned solvent, or a little Barkeeper's Friend
(sodium oxalate and mild abrasive), up through Goo-Gone
and $3 a can brake cleaner, which will take away almost
anything greasy.
I'd think you don't want to remove paint labels from the
circuit boards, or harm belts or other rubber bits, no?
- John