2 Dec
1999
2 Dec
'99
4:10 p.m.
At 11:34 PM 12/2/99 +0000, you wrote:
You're right. I meant to add that the solder that I'm using is a very
low temperature solder with silver in it. 500 or 600 degrees would be too
cold for standard solder. I love this silver stuff, it expensive but it
flows beautifully. Most of the stuff that I work on is tiny so a one ounce
roll will last for a couple of years.
Joe
Does this mean I should stock up on spare tips, elements, swtiches, etc
for these irons?
It wouldn't hurt. But I was told they had quit making them a year or so
ago so that may not be right.
one. BTW the number on the back of the tip (7,
8, 9, etc) indicates the
temperature that it regulates at. 7 = 700d F, 8 = 800d F, etc. The local
Yep. The bit of metal that the number is stamped onto is a special alloy with
the curie point at that temperature. That's how the thermostat works -- a
magnet in the shaft of the iron is attracted to the back of the bit,
closing a switch. When the iron gets to temperature, the alloy stops
being magnetic, the magnet is pulled away by a spring, opening the switch
and turning off the element. The iron cools down, the magnet is attracted
again, etc.
In an emergency you can swap these alloy cylinders between bits if you
have the wrong combination of shape and temperature.
surplus place has a large variety of tip styles
and temperatures so I have
plenty of different ones to work with. I like to use a hot one (800d) for
unsoldering so I can heat the joint up and get the iron off of it quickly.
But I use a 500 to 600d one for general use.
Be warned that a relatively cold iron can do _more_ thermal damage than a
hot one. _All_ irons are hot, and if you use a colder one you keep it on
too long to complete the connection and thus overheat the component.
I find a #8 good for almost all work. A #7 is useable, but I don't like
it. #5 or #6 is too cold...
-tony