28 Nov
2012
28 Nov
'12
9:20 a.m.
On Nov 28, 2012, at 11:37 AM, Chuck Guzis wrote:
On 11/28/2012 12:09 AM, Tothwolf wrote:
I've used methylene chloride to clean Sharpie off homemade PCBs
before, but I used the last of it a long time ago (my father
used to be a chemist and had an old bottle of it). Nice stuff,
but keep it off your hands unless you want to look like a
reptile for a while (and probably worse things).
In any case, it seems Tenax 7R is discontinued, which is a
shame since I have some Mac case parts which broke recently.
www.modeltrainstuff.com seems to have a few bottles left,
though; I just ordered two, so they should have six left if
anyone's looking to get some. Otherwise, you'll probably need
to get it in bulk from a chemical supply place.
- Dave
Neither. Epoxies won't stick well to plastic
and cyanoacrylate type
"glues" (superglue, crazyglue, etc) will make an extremely brittle joint
and will make future repairs nearly impossible. If it is ABS plastic,
use dichloromethane (methylene chloride) to solvent weld it back
together. Align the parts and allow the solvent to get into the joint
via capillary action. Be careful not to push the parts together hard
enough to squeeze plastic out of the joint because that will make the
joint brittle too.
Agreed on that one. Two days ago, I repaired the broken-off "tang" on a bezel
to a 3.5" drive. No more than about 3mm wide and 2mm thick, solvent cement did a
perfect job in restoring the part. I used a hobby-variety brand called "Tenax
7.R'. Dichloromethane is also referred to as "methyl chloride". Done well,
the repair is invisible and will not show discoloration with age.