On 6 Mar 2010 at 18:37, Tony Duell wrote:
How fo yuo udno it again if you need to replace either
part?
Just slide a knife in the joint; it scrapes off quite easily. Unlike
most film-bonding glues (such as methacrylate glues), the strength
comes from the polyurethane itself and its gap-filling properties
(with wood, it's stainable). Think of it as very dense urethane
foam. You must have used the low-density aerosol version to
weatherize your home.
There are glues I use with success. The plastic
solvent-welding tpye
of adhesives are good (provided you use them on a plastic they will
disolve).
I don't consider those (e.g. methyl chloride) to be adhesives, so
much as solvents. I've done lots of repairs with those and they're
quite valuable and lead to a joint that's indistinguishable from the
material itself.
I've also been known to repair missing plastic pieces with automotive
body filler (e.g. Bondo). A coat of paint and you can't tell that
it's there.
I use the well-known trick of strengthing the repair on the
back with some cotton fabric.
I use the fiberglass tape that's used for sheetrock joints or
laminating up resin structures. Much stronger than cotton. The
driver's side kick panel on my Volvo brick has a long crack repaired
with that and heavy-body ABS cement. It'll probably still be holding
long after the rest of the car falls to pieces.
Epoxy adhesives are useful too for all sorts of
repairs. I've never
had much success with isocyano acrylic hydro-copolymerising adhesives,
though. And contact adhesive is what I sue for sticking on nameplates,
bits of trim, and that sort of thing.
I keep a couple of aerosol cans of Scotch Super 77 around for just
that situation, in addition to being downright handy for gluing
mailing labels onto boxes.
Cheers,
Chuck