24 Aug
2001
24 Aug
'01
3:55 a.m.
At 09:50 pm 23/08/2001 +0100, Tony Duell wrote:
I think that's somewhere around where mine is. Also, it cannot be accused
of having a small tip...
Good grief. Mind you, it's easy enough to spoof an unconditional branch,
except that it takes an extra instruction.
Cheers!
Ade.
--
B-Racing: B where it's at :-)
http://www.b-racing.co.uk
Well... It's not that I *can't* solder, it's just that I don't seem to
be
very good at it for some reason. It may be that I've got a dodgy iron (I do
need to get one with a much smaller tip if I'm going to start desoldering
ICs), but a) The tip simply won't tin properly, b) It seems to take ages to
warm anything up enough to get the solder flowing. For example, I must have
Many beginners are so worried about overheating components that they use
an iron that is far too small (low power element). With the result that
it takes a long time to get the joint up to the right temperature. And
everything else gets hot as well. The result is a lot more damage that if
the right soldering iron was used.
I consider 25W to be a _minimum_ for a non-temperature-controlled iron. I
personally use a 50W temperature-controlled one, and have never had any
problems solding PCBs with it (no lifted tracks or burnt components).
I shall have to look at spending some proper money on a temp-controlled iron.
If you can't tin the tip then something is wrong.
Either the tip is not
clean (you do wipe it on a damp sponge, I take it) or the solder you are
using is the wrong stuff. You are using resin-core (flux) electronic
solder, aren't you? And not the stuff sold for water pipes.
Yes, and yes. However, it refused to take solder from new; there's no rust
or anything like that on it - it's just got a built-in solder resist :(
So don't worry too much if you have problems soldering normal DIN plugs.
We all do :-)
Phew! :)
I've been known to take a bit of scrap wood (OK,
you don't have that
either, right),
:) I could drill holes in the desk... I *am* short of scrap wood, but
there's plenty around for the taking. I've just never needed it before.
drill a few holes in it to take the pins and
'plug' the
plug into the wood. It keeps the pins in roughly the right places and
prevents me chasing the plug around the table....
I used a thick piece of cardboard, which worked, but I had to keep moving
the plug, since after a bit of wobbling the holes had enlarged sufficiently
to reduce the grip.
Still, a vice is something you'll need. Actually,
you'll end up needing a
small vice (about 3" across the jaws) on the electronics bench and a
larger one for mechanical work.
I've got several at my Liverpool base - but I'm rarely there these days.
According to
the datasheet (from Farnell) I was reading, the original
didn't have a BRA instruction? That seems somewhat unlikely to me, but is
it true?
Yes, it's true. The original 6502 had only conditional branches and
unconditional jumps...