11 Apr
2001
11 Apr
'01
6:23 a.m.
I'd recommend that you not only replace the keypad with something more durable,
but that you buffer and parallel the LED display such that you can use some
significantly larger displays. That will provide you with flexibility in
packaging that the use of the existing display won't allow. It's lotsa work,
but that's what the hobby is about, isn't it?
The way to handle this might be to buy a scrap of aluminum sheet stock that's
about large enough to build a box that will hold the KIM-1, perhaps together
with a PSU, and, if you've any desire to do that, together with whatever
expansion hardware you want. Make sure it's sturdy enough for your purposes.
Obtain a hacksaw, shear, files, etc, and whatever else you think you'll need to
butcher the metal. Radio Shack once sold a really decent nibbler, that's the
easiest tool to afford for making oddly-shaped square-cornered holes for
keypads, displays, connectors, etc. It was a good tool so it's likely no longer
available. I bought two just to be safe.
Purchase or fabricate a keypad, ABSOLUTELY NOT a membrane or otherwise prebuilt
matrix keypad, but rather, one with keyboard-type switches and removable keytops
to which you can see yourself applying some sort of decent-looking legends.
That way you have a maintenance path. It's not hard to hand-wire a set of
switches onto a piece of perf-board in a solid way that can be attached to the
underside of your aluminum top. I've done this sort of thing many times and if
you want "spiritual guidance" with respect to this, I doubt I'm the only one
in
this forum who's got advice for you.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Archer" <dogbert(a)mindless.com>
To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 1:31 AM
Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Erlacher <edick(a)idcomm.com>
To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
It's pretty hard to tell whether it's the
keypad or the circuit that's
malfunctioning. How did you determine it's the keypad itself?
Funny you should ask. I studied the circuit in detail
about two years back, and verified that closing the
right pair of application connector pins caused the
"broken" keys to register. I got busy, put the KIM
away in a box and forgot about it until recently.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Merchberger" <zmerch(a)30below.com>
To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 7:12 PM
Subject: Kim / Commie keypads
> Rumor has it that Sellam Ismail may have mentioned these words:
> >On Mon, 9 Apr 2001, Ross Archer wrote:
>
> [[[ Editor's Note - original poster not identified ]]]
>
> >> > > So this discussion isn't totally off-topic, does anyone have
> >> > > any suggestions on how to fix my dead KIM-1 keyboard?
>
> [ snip ]
>
> >I'll bet that the KIM-1 keypad was the same type that was used in one
of
> >Commodore's pocket calculators. But
even THOSE are pretty rare.
> >
> >I guess you're SOL. Is it possible to unsolder the keypad and
disassemble
> >it to clean the contacts?
>
> I hope he's not [1]... I happen to have a Commie pocket calculator in my
> basement - dunno if it's what you're looking for (it's *duuuuuusty!* and
I
don't
think it works well) but I can put digital pix on the 'net in the
next couple days if that'd help...
Shipping or small trade would be all I ask...
[1] I'm hoping that the original poster isn't SOL, that is...
HTH,
Roger "Merch" Merchberger
--
Roger "Merch" Merchberger --- sysadmin, Iceberg Computers
Recycling is good, right??? Ok, so I'll recycle an old .sig.
If at first you don't succeed, nuclear warhead
disarmament should *not* be your first career choice.