A few classic computer photos

Zane H. Healy wrote: You unfortunately don't get the same option with Jessops, but there's absolutely nothing stopping you generating an ICC profile using a Spyder3Print calibrator/colorimeter -- there are two TIFF files in Program Files\Spyder3Print that contain the profile targets. Print these at 12x8 or so (larger prints = easier to scan) then feed them through the S3 software. The Fuji machines have a colorimeter bolted onto the top, and do an automatic colour calibration ("Paper Condition Check") on startup, when the paper magazine is refilled, and 10 days after the paper was last checked. This generally means that the ICC profiles are valid until major work is done on the printer -- a new laser or something along those lines. There's another step above this, too -- external monitoring. Fuji UK offer a service whereby a lab can send a "Control Strip" off for analysis, then get a report back showing the condition of the process chemistry, and any recommendations (e.g. "P1 activity low, add 10ml concentrate to P1 tank"). It's usually done on a fortnightly or monthly cycle depending on the specific location. Yeah, that's always fun. On the older Frontiers (350 and 370 series), XP2 is a pain to print. On the newer machines (570 and later) you just select "Image Source", then "B&W Negative". Very little -- I've spent most of my time working with the Fuji Frontier machines (a 350, a 370 and a 570). I doubt it. Usually the scans are done through fixed-width 35mm masks. Basically, the scanner consists of a lightbox in the base (Cold Cathode fluorescent in the 300 series, LED in the 570 series), a scanner assembly (auto-feeder or manual feeder) and a CCD scanner plus optics in the top. The negative sits inside a black metal mask -- this prevents light from spreading outside the 24x36mm frame... which prevents you from scanning anything other than (at best) the full frame. What you can (sort of) do is get some medium-thick card (about 200gsm), make up a secondary mask for the film (think "cardboard slide mount"), then use a 120 (medium format) feeder and mask to scan it. The problem is, most high-street labs won't have the 120-size masks on account of cost.. last time I checked, the 120 manual-feed mask was about ?900. Another question from right in the middle of my area of expertise! We've got a regular customer at work who has a Stereo Realist. Basically, he has the individual frames (i.e. the 'left' and 'right' frames) printed separately as 6x4s. Obviously the images are "4x4" square ratio, but when printed on 6x4 paper they're the right size for his 3D viewer. As I recall, he cut down the "frame plus border left and right" images, then glued each pair (left/right) together to fit the viewer. If you wanted them printing as 4x4in, it is possible to do that on a Frontier (and should be possible on a Noritsu QSS or Agfa d-Lab). Basically, you have to set up a custom paper size in the Setup menu -- the catch is you need the Admin password to do this. It doesn't take long to calculate the figures needed, but there are limitations. Most notably, one dimension needs to equal a paper size the lab has. So if you want (say) 4"x9", the lab needs to have either 4" or 9" paper in the print finish you want. For reference, our standard paper "selection" is: 102mm (4"), glossy only 127mm (5"), glossy, lustre and premium (pearl-effect, I've been told it's a bit like "Cibachrome" or "Ilfochrome") 152mm (6"), glossy, lustre and premium (pearl-effect, I've been told it's a bit like "Cibachrome" or "Ilfochrome") 254mm (10"), glossy and lustre 305mm (12"), glossy and lustre The 102mm (4") paper is generally only used for APS (Advanced Photo System) printing. One useful print size the printers can do with the factory configuration is 7.5x5" -- a bit larger than a 7x5 print, but at the same aspect ratio as a 35mm frame, so no cropping on the sides. I tried to fix my Minolta 5400 film scanner before I sent it in -- stripped it to bits, cleaned all the detection sensors, reflex mirror (which was caked in dust) and CCD, then ended up replacing a few of the motor drive chips on the PCB (some of the stepper motors weren't moving properly). No dice, still wouldn't work... I got it back last week -- the repair note just says "Replaced main PCB, checked, cleaned and tested." I figure one of the AVISION controller chips probably packed in... But anyway, it's behaving itself now. I've just bought some Ilford film, ID-11 developer and other darkroom kit -- I'm planning to start doing a bit of B&W work again. XP2 (Ilford colour-process B&W film) is fine for what it is, but sometimes it's more fun to play with older technology. I'm sure most of you can appreciate that :) -- Phil. classiccmp at philpem.me.uk http://www.philpem.me.uk/