On Sat, 13 Jul 2013, David Griffith wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jul 2013, Tothwolf wrote:
I find isopropyl alcohol (2-propanol) plus a lot
of scrubbing with a
rag to work better for dissolving stubborn dried tape and sticker
adhesive on plastic and some painted surfaces, but 'Goo Gone' (or
WD-40) work well when the adhesive is still sticky and active. You
still have to remove any residue from either Goo Gone or WD-40 with
something like isopropyl alcohol too.
If the paint on a PDP-8 is soluble with isopropyl, my normal technique
for dried adhesive removal wouldn't be well advised at all though.
I'd be wary of using any sort of alcohol on acrylic/plexiglas/perspex --
it rapidly causes cracks and brittleness. See this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E
Toothpaste and peanut butter might be helpful. The abrasives in
toothpaste are mild, but can frost glossy-smooth surfaces. Peanut
butter shouldn't do that. It might actually polish surfaces. In any
case, peanut butter is a handy way of applying oil and making it stay
put.
Yikes. The youtube video bothers me in that the acrylic sheet was already
under tremendous stress from the bungee cord before anything was done to
it though. Acrylic (unlike polycarbonate) is very brittle. Curved the way
it was in the video, it was likely already growing microfractures in the
surface, and probably would have eventually broken even just sitting there
with the bungee cord on it.
While they look similar, there is a chemical difference between
polycarbonate (lexan) and acrylic [or more appropriately, poly(methyl
methacrylate), aka PMMA] (lucite, perspex, plexiglas, etc). I've had no
issues cleaning polycarbonate with isopropyl, and manufacturers
specifically recommend alcohols such as isopropyl, ethanol, etc for
cleaning. On the other hand, ammonia based cleaners (such as Windex)
/will/ damage polycarbonate (and PC-ABS plastic blends), often causing
stress fractures later.
This /does/ help explain some of the cracked and crazed modular connectors
[
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modular_connector] I've seen over the years
that had been cleaned with alcohols though. While the standards call for
polycarbonate, those plugs must have been molded with less expensive
acrylic instead of polycarbonate. This is something to keep in mind for
later too since companies keep trying to phase out polycarbonate due to
the fears over the Bisphenol A content. For that fact, I should see about
taking microphotographs of some of those plugs that are still in my scrap
bin...
I guess this is yet another reason for me to avoid acrylic and stick with
time-tested polycarbonate and also always check chemical compatibility.