wild guess - the binder is some sort of expensive
epoxy material.
Perhaps. Some sort binder as found in enamel paints might work as well.
How are you going to apply the rust? With a airbrush?
You'll need some sort of mechanism to insure it gets applied evenly (i.e uniform
thickness), no? You'll also need something similar to apply the *epoxy* - that would
have to go on uniformly also. The distance between the read head and the platter is
measured in microns, no?
The drum is quite low density, and does not have air bearing heads.
The head heights are actually adjustable with a bunch of set screws.
The heads themselves are also pretty big. This is a late 1950s drum,
not a 1970s era hard disk - there is a world of difference. I would
bet the heads ride a few thousands above the surface.
The whole assembly is in a very rigid cast chassis, driven by a
relatively low-frills AC motor, apparently.
My thinking is that the drum could be recoated (this is assuming it is
indeed shot), and using the rigid cast chassis, ground down to a
smooth surface with a custom made tool. This is much like a "poor mans
wheel lathe" used on railroad wheels. As long as the bearings are
still pretty tight, there should be very little wobble between the
drum and chassis. With each head being adjustable for height, much
inaccuracy across the drum becomes fairly unimportant. Inaccuracy
around the drum is more of an issue, but I suspect it will not be too
bad if the correct tool material and magnetic coating is used, and the
drum ground down gently. I will ask my real machinist friends about
the tooling, as I doubt I (or any of us) could make it.
--
Will