Ah, see, I don't. I want the damn thing to work,
and reliably. If I=20
can make it easy to fix when it goes wrong, even better. That's why I=20
always replace the steel hydraulic pipes with kunifer, and use stainless=20
Well, my Father's Citroen BX (touch wood...) has hard very few hydraulic
problems. I've had to replace just one high pressure pipe (to the back
brakes), which was damaged by an idiot garage mechanic when he refitted
the rear subframe after an accident repair.
Easy enough. You just need the funny pipe tool. You do know that you
do the brake and suspension pipe nuts not much more than finger tight?
I have the official 3-volume workshop manual... (and for that matter the
manuals for the DS19, ID19 and GS) There are actually torque settings
given for the hydraulic unions (3 sizes, of course). And IIRC you are
supposed to try tightening them a little more if they leak after fitting.
But in my experience, if a union starts to leak in service, there's
little point in trying to tighten it. Replace the sleeve seal....
And get the Facom spanners designed for working on such unions. At least
if you ever have to fit one in a restricted space...
Too much and you deform the rubber seal, and it leaks.
Of course, this
means that those not in the know horse the nuts up even tighter to seal
it...
of 7mm and
11mm bolts).
11mm is relatively common. It's 12mm that I find somewhat obscure, and
which Citroen seem to use to excess...
Hm, not run across many, with the notable exception of the hydraulic
bleeder on the regulator. They do, however, love their Torx screws for
I've found them elsewhere too.
interior fittings, on the newer ones.
All over the place, actually. When I rebuilt the steering rack, the
operating culinder was held at one end by a special Torx-headed bolt.
When I replaced the clutch, I was supprised that the pressure plate
assembly was held to the flywheel with Torx-headed bolts, And so on. You
_need_ a set of torx drivers for working on such cars.
-tony