28 Jan
1999
28 Jan
'99
4:22 p.m.
At 05:27 AM 1/29/99 +0000, Tony Duell wrote:
Okay... you got me on that one! B^}
True enough... On prints I'm usually lucky enough to get the lab to
balance it fairly well, (if I don't want to go digging thru the filter
drawer) and on slides I usually correct it in the scanner...
-jim
---
jimw(a)agora.rdrop.com
The Computer Garage - http://www.rdrop.com/~jimw
Computer Garage Fax - (503) 646-0174
Well... from
my perspective:
(Pun intended? Perspective is one of the most difficult things to get
right when photographing 'box-like' objects in close-up) > Medium speed film if you have the light, altho
I'll admit that I use ASA400
> a lot when I'm shooting equipment so I have more latitude on depth of
field.
There is nothing wrong with a 30 second exposure - well, other than the
fact that most point-n-shoot cameras can't do them, and the 'Bulb'
setting seems to have vanished recently. Fix the camera, fix the
computer, and use the slowest film you can find.
A large, heavy, wide base Bogen tripod is your friend! (or at least mine!)
And my (many year) old Minolta 35mm remembers quite well the 'B'ulb
setting. B^}
A couple of
halogen work lights are adaquate for lighting most sessions,
unless you have something like a NeXT cube. (all black!)
If you are taking slides, you probably need to correct the colour
temperature. Tungsten-halogen bulbs are closer to daylight than most
electric lamps, but they're still a bit cooler (redder). If you are
taking prints you can correct the colour to some extent when you print
the negatives.