On 08/06/10 19:31, Tony Duell wrote:
There were microprocessor (and even microcontroller)
projects hack then.
At least computers based round the SCMP, 6502 (Junior Computer), 2650 (TV
Games Computer).
Point taken.
But they were the exception rather than the norm.
I rememebr them saying it was better to store
recharageble batteries in
the discharged state (since they then couldn't self-discharge). There my
be a battery technology where that's true, but most of the common ones
are better stored charged.
Store a lithium-ion pack fully discharged and you're asking for trouble
(if it self-discharges below ~3.5V most chargers won't touch it).
Wouldn't be surprised if half the "dead" digicam and phone batteries
were just discharged below the "minimum" mark; a 3.8V PSU with a 10mA
limit will bring them back into the land of the living in a fairly short
span of time. Li-ion and Li-polymer are generally best stored about half
charged.
Not sure about NiMH or Nicad, it's been a while since I read the spec
sheets.
AIUI Pb-acid and Pb-gel are best stored charged with a monthly top-off
charge. Leave them on all the time and they sulphate -- or is that
leaving them discharged? Again, been a while since I skimmed the spec
sheets.
Second little hint : None of my cameras has a hard
disk, or a CD-ROM
drive, or...
Let's see what I've got in my kit box...
Olympus OM10: Two SR44s, 35mm film. Have used it in some pretty rough
conditions.
Olympus OM4 w/ Winder II: Same story, two SR44s, but it eats them MUCH
faster than the OM10. If I actually cared, I'd replace it with an OM4ti
or an OM4 Mk.II (which have a newer, low-power controller board). You
can theoretically use an OM4 with a flat battery, but you're limited to
1/60sec shutter speed and lose the metering.
I still miss the multi-spot metering on the OM4. That was NICE, and if
anyone ever ports CHDK to the EOS 7D, I'm adding it (might have to hack
up live-view mode a bit but who cares!) :)
Canon EOS 33v w/ battery grip: Two CR123 batteries, 35mm film,
all-electronic. TTL metering, motor drive, autofocus (7-spot), and all
the bells and whistles you could want. Doesn't balance well with any of
the "L" series metal-body lenses.
Canon EOS 7D w/ battery grip: Digital. Two lithium batteries in the grip
(or one if you remove the grip), 18 megapixel APS-C sensor. 8 fps
continuous burst for 19 shots on RAW (with a suitably fast memory card).
VERY nice bit of kit, had it since release day (the privileges of
working in a camera shop) and it hasn't let me down yet.
Have previously owned:
Olympus Trip 35. Let my brother borrow this, he rewarded my generosity
by smashing the selenium cell. Now the metering is shot to buggery :(
Canon EOS 400D w/ grip. Sold when I upgraded to a 40D
Canon EOS 40D w/ grip. Sold when I got the 7D. New owner asked if he
could have his money back because he "had a bit of an accident" with
it... he'd dropped it in a duck pond. Idiot.
I'd really
like to learn how to do some more advanced
plastic/metalworking (and get the tools to do it).
It is great fun. The problem is the startup cost. A good lathe is not
cheap, but then again it will last all your life if you look after it.
I'm probably going to start with something like a Proxxon MF70
micro-mill; at the very least it'll be useful for accurately drilling
and cutting holes in front panels. I can knock holes into metal and
plastic panels, but I can never get the edges straight, they always look
a bit bumpy :-/
--
Phil.
classiccmp at philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/