1 Aug
2015
1 Aug
'15
3:26 p.m.
-----Original Message-----
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Paul Koning
Sent: 01 August 2015 22:39
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: This Hobby Is Actually Useful!
I did consider using leaded solder. I used lead-free because it is a more modern piece of
equipment probably made with lead-free solder, but that was probably misguided. I made the
repair anyway, but next time I will try using leaded.
Thanks
Rob
On Aug 1, 2015, at 5:24 PM, Robert Jarratt
<robert.jarratt at ntlworld.com>
wrote:
PS A related question. I struggled somewhat with the Weller Magnastat
No. 8 tip, when trying to solder leads to the ground plane, I could
not get the solder to stay molten very long. I was using lead-free
solder, its melting point is much lower than the temperature which a
No. 8 tip reaches. The iron is 50W. Clearly the ground plane was
taking heat away, but is it a problem with the tip not being hot
enough, the iron not powerful enough, or perhaps some operator error?
Politically correct solder is harder to use and has a higher melting point. I
asked one of the professionals at the office about it; her answer was to avoid it
unless it was required for the job. In other words, for hobby use and for
anything else that isn?t sold, stay away from it. Modern components are
perfectly happy being soldered with real solder, even though they are made
lead-free.
I followed that advice and was very happy with the outcome.
Meanwhile, 50 watts isn?t all that much when you have a major heat sink. A
ground plane may be enough to give you trouble, but I suspect it?s the use of
lead free solder that?s the real issue.