22 Oct
2011
22 Oct
'11
10:13 a.m.
On 22 Oct 2011 at 11:53, Jules Richardson wrote:
For the HP 250 I used some resistance wire connected
to a 12V PSU to
cut through the bonding and remove the faceplate. As that was just a
static exhibit machine I just reattached the faceplate by sealing
around the edges though - I'm not sure what best practice is to
'properly' re-seal the entire plate (I'd be particularly worried about
getting air bubbles trapped in there!)
If one wanted real implosion protection, it might be worth
investigating some of the mylar window films made for the purpose of
containing fragments:
http://windowfilmdepot.com/protection.htm
You could then place the old plastic mask over the mylar film without
any sort of adhesive in the middle--or not--and still be protected.
--Chuck