13 Feb
2014
13 Feb
'14
12:22 p.m.
Hi Tony,
Essentially that's what us keyboard geeks call the bolt-mod. Which is a
bit of a misnomer since I haven't actually seen anyone use bolts yet...
OK, you've not _seen_ me :-) But seriously, that's how I repaired my Tpye M.
I do a screw mod, which is basically the same except I use flat headed
screws coming in from the steel plate side, and no nuts.
I am nto very happy about threading scres into palstic. The less said
about self-tapping screws the better (one of my mad friends calls them
'self stripping screws' for good reason), and I doubt most machine screw
threads would hold that will in this plastic. Putting the bolt right
torugh and htne fitting a nut seems ot be the stringest way.
I like the spring trick you mentioned, but the only issue I take with
that is the potential to distort the spring if not done carefully. I use
I have never had an problems with distortion. Just lightlyu pull the top
end of the spring and catch the edge of the housingbetween the coils near
the top end.
scotch tape to remove all the spring/hammer assemblies
row by row, which
also makes re-installing them very simple.
I am not sure quite ehat you do. You can't put sticky tape on the bottom
side, snicne you'd not get it out when you refit the membranes. And I
don't think sticking it to the top end of the springs will do much good.
My problem (before I figured out you could hook the springs over to hld
everything in place) was that I'd assemble all the flaps, put the
membrane and metal base plate on ,adnb then find at least one flap was
out of position so it all ahd to come apart again. Hence me actually
fixing the darn thigns in place with the springs.
-tony