I was under
the impression that the US mains was in fact 220V (or 230V,
234V, depending on which reference you believe), centre-tapped. The
centre-tap is the 'neutral' wire and is connected to earth ground at one
point. The outside 2 ieres are this 110V with respect to neutral, but as
they're in antipahse there's 220V between them.
Yes, I think that's the basic setup, but as Chuck noted the voltage of one
half is around 120V, not 110V (I got 122.8V on a nearby outlet just now)
I think the voltage will depend on various things. I've heard it quoted
as 117V/234V [1] but that was some time ago, so it may well have changed...
[1] Anyone else remember valves like the 117Z which was (IIRC) a double
diode recrtifier with a 117V (!) filament. I think there wsa a half-wave
rectifer/ooutput pentode with a 117V filament too, used in cheap record
players.
Most devices are 110V and
run between one live/phase wire and neutral, high-power stuff (cooking
ovens, tumble driers, etc) run their heating elements between the 2
outside wires so as to reduce the current they draw.
As mentioned though, our elderly dryer just runs the elements and the timer
from one 'hot' wire and the motor from the other - perhaps that's
unconventional, though. It does have an interesting effect in that our dryer's
hooked to a load-control setup, but when the power company send a signal to
shut the power to load-controlled devices off (which they do during periods of
peak demand) the dryer stops producing heat and the timer stops advancing, but
Probably better than if (by chance) the load-control had removed the
other live wire (heater carries on, but motor stops).
Our washing machine has an option shown on wiring diagram to connect it
for multiple phase (I can't remember if it uses 2 or 3 phases) mains.
Basically add a contactor (big relay) to control the water heating
elements. Motor/timer/pump runs off one phase, heaters run off other
phases. Of course it doesn't require a particular angle between the
phases, unlike a 3 phase motor would.
[1] In the
cases of blocks of flats, student halls of residence, etc,
it's not unheard-of for each floor to be wired to wired to a different
phase. This has led to studend running extension leads to the rooms above
and below theres so as to get a 3 phase supply...
ISTR people doing that in student halls because each room had its own breaker
with a ridiculously-low capacity, so running extensions from other rooms -
sometimes on different floors - was not unheard of.
Yes, but gettign 3 phase to run an 11/780 was somewhat unconventional
(no, I was not involved in this...)
No, if we ant 110V, we have to provide our own
step-down transfoemr
Y'know, I think I remember seeing shaver sockets in UK bathrooms with 120V
outputs (possibly in conjunction with 240V ones; long time since I've seen on
at all). Presumably those had a small step-down inside.
The UKL regulations prohibit any socket outlets in bathrooms (defined as
a 'room containing a fixed bath or shower') apart from shaver sockets run
from an isolating transformer. Most of thse sockets
have a tapped
secondary winding on the transofemr, and do, indeed, provide 110V as
well.
The trnasofemrs are typically about 20VA, and have many other uses. I
rememebr when a local 'pound shop/ had a load of such sockets, presumbly
bankrupt stock from sowewhere. Yes, I bought quite a few for the
isolating transformers.
-tony