Yes, those odd-ball high-cost or many-years-obsolete devices certainly are
different from the popcorn $4, new 4 for $1, used serial boards. Of course, a
"real" serial board, with, say, a TCM 78808 instead of the garden variety uart
on it, well, that's not so easy to fix. I remember the DEC guy telling me that
it's cheaper to toss one of their 16-port boards than to have it fixed.
I never liked DEC ...
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Duell" <ard(a)p850ug1.demon.co.uk>
To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: Ebay horror ...
> > > minutes it takes to swap them, and it
costs 100x that much to fix the
serial
> > > board, at a minimum, it seems to make
sense to swap the board. That
does
> fix
> >
> > Are you seriously telling me it takes you 1000 minutes (or over 16 hours)
> > to fix a serial board? The only time it could take me that long is if the
> > 'serial board' was something like a DEC DMR11, and it had a nasty
logic
> > fault in the microcoded processor.
> >
> I'd never spend more than that 10 minutes I mentioned before on a serial
port
Nor would I spend any longer than that, because it wouldn't take me any
longer than that...
> board, because they only cost 50 cents or a dollar at the thrift store. If
you
You also have to consider the time taken to go to the thrift store, buy
the item, and come home. In my case here that would be around 1 hour, I
think. Hmm....
> have a complicated serial board, i.e. one that doesn't talk the
"normal"
> asynchronous protocol, and that runs at a higher rate, e.g. 4.762 Gbps, and
is
The DMR11 is not particularly fast (in fact it's slow by modern
standards), but it does have a 'processor' on it (a lot of TTL parts and
microcode PROMs). It's not the sort of thing you can replace with bits
from the local PC shop, charity shops, etc. Oh, and it's a Unibus card
for a PDP11
[Before the DEC enthusiasts here leap on me, yes I know it's physically 2
PCBs. I have enough of them, the printset, etc.]
[...]
ones with socketed components seldom break.
It's only going to break if the
part is soldered down.
Isn't that the truth :-(
[...]
> > > True, but not if you don't fiddle with the cables. Moreover, even the
few
> >
> > Actually, a serial port meeting RS232 standards should be able to
withstand
> > hot-swapping of the cables. Shorting any 2
pins together, or to ground
should
do no damage.
Then why do they break? and why don't they socket the transmitters and
Because half of them don't actually meet RS232 standards!. And dodgy
grounding doesn't help. If the peripheral (or whatever) is not properly
grounded, the 0V line can be floating at half mains voltage wrt local
ground (due to the capacitors in the mains filter). That can zap the
RS232 buffer chips.
receivers?
Because sockets cost money, and most users wouldn't know how to replace
chips anyway... I have seen devices where the I/O buffer chips are
socketed (and almost nothing else is), presumably to make them easy to
replace, though.
> > Over here 'charity shops' (==thrift stores) don't generally sell
> > computer parts. They may sell complete computers if you are lucky (and
> > can find a volunteer to do electrical safety tests). But I've never seen
> > a serial card or anything like it in one.
> >
> The common PC at a thrift shop has had the "interesting" boards removed,
along
As I said, this is a country-specific thing.
Over here, mains-operated electrical stuff has to be safety tested by a
'qualified person' before it can be sold. Since most charity shops are
run by volunteers who have no knowledge of electrical stuff, most such
shops can't sell second-hand computers, etc.
And they certainly have no clue as to what 'interesting' boards are. I
doubt they'd ever consider opening up the case.
> PSU and fan costs $22. At the thrift store, you get a used fan with the
PSU,
> but it will get you through a few days until you
can order and take delivery
of
a new case.
TO be honest I'd rather by a _good quality_ fan from somewhere like RS
components and install it in the original PSU. It'll cost more, but I
won't be fixing the machine again in a year's time...
> > I have to conclude that either you're soldering with an arc-welder or you
> > are taking months to change a single chip.
> >
> It's not months, but electricity isn't that cheap here. My soldering iron
uses
I am still very suprised. Soldering irons are not exactly high-power
devices...
> butane, by the way, but still, it's much cheaper to replace the entire
board.
I must get a butane soldering iron sometime -- for 'field' repairs. When
I'm at the workbench I prefer a temperature-controlled soldering iron.
Period.
> > For 'static' equipment (i.e. not stuff that's carried about,
mounted in
> > vehicles, etc), turned pin sockets (machined pin sockets) seem to be
> > reliable. I always use them on my prototype boards, not because it makes
> > it easier to replace chips, rather that it's easier for me to pull chips
> > and force signals high or low when tracing design bugs.
> >
> Yes, but they cost like the devil, and the pins on the wire-wrap types are
too
Sure, but they are relaible. I don't like wasting time tracing faults
caused by poor-quality components. And if I'm demonstrating a prototype
I've designed, I want it to work reliably.
Having had a few problems from folded-contact sockets, I went over to
turned pin ones exclusively. And never had any more problems...
long to suit me. For soldertails, I like the
ones made by Burndy and Augat,
You can always cut them dowu...
> > Once I've got the design worked out, I socket (unless there are good
> > reasons not to) :
> >
> The sockets take up considerable space perhaps better used for air flow.
That's
a reason not
to.
If it's one of my own devices, I'll just use a slightly larger box and
keep the airflow that way. If it's going in a cardcage, then yes, I might
need to not use sokects to keep the airflow right.
-tony