> Of course your advice is valued, extremely so,
and
my
> separate thanks for it was sincere. That advice
did
> come, however, with a morsel of baggage.
Consider,
for
> a moment, your statement to me that you
"have a
major
> objection to 'whacking' anything near a
CRT."
Stipped
If this is about statements like that, then I think
we're going to argue
about differences in UK and US usage of English.
Which quickly becomes
pointless..
Your "pointless" point is a good one. You must
remember you're dealing with the "Kingdom of Nice."
Over here, declarative statements are so uncommon
they're rather jarring.
> >
> > My first thought would have been to swap the CRT
> only. Not the entire
> > monitor. For at least 2 reasons it's a good idea
to
> replace as small a
> > part as possible.
> >
> I thought of this initially. The reason I didn't
is
> because the yokes were glued on and the wiring
from
the
> yokes was soldered to the boards. Would have
been
a
A word of warning... Yokes are _much_ less generic
than CRTs. As the 2
montors in question seem to be rather different in
design, I would
recomend keeping the yoke with the PCB it came with,
not with the CRT. In
other words, leave the yoke wires alone and slide the
yoke off the CRT neck.
Getting a yoke off can be a bit tricky the first few
times -- you must
not apply much force to the CRT neck, or you _will_
break the CRT. The
best way I've found it to start by removing the
CRT
base conenctor and
then removing the screwclip around the back of the
yoke entirely (don't
just loosen it, take it right off). Then use a
screwdriver to carefully
spread the slots in the yoke that the clip compresses
(this will make
sense if you are looking at one). Cut away the
silicone rubber. Then
twist the yoke carefully from side to side (if it
doesn't feel free, find
out why, don't force it), and slide it off.
Thanks for the details instructions. Well I just
finished trying. Unlike the "replacement" CRT
assembly, the silicone in the one that was in the 5322
'twixt yoke and CRT has gone completely hard. It will
not cut without applying a lot of force, which worried
me as I was working 1/8" from the tube (you're saying
to yourself, "he should have been just as worried when
he was hitting it with that hammer"). So I gave up on
trying to get the yoke off. Instead, I pulled the
board and 8 pin connector after snipping and labeling a
few wires. Although the bo
> It did here, but also bear in mind that some of
us
are
> simply do not have the tools and knowledge to
repair
things at the
component level -- yet.
If you want to learn about component level repair,
then please post some
more questions. I can't believe this monitor is
either that complicated
or that unconventional. And vertical problems are
normally the easiest to
find...
If you want me to have some thoughts about it, start
by posting the
numbers and physical descriptions (number of pins,
any odd features like
heatsink tabs) of any chips in this monitor.
Thanks for the offer. If the board swap fails I'll
take you up on that.
-tony