On 1/11/07, dwight elvey <dkelvey at hotmail.com> wrote:
From: "Robert Ollerton" <rollerton at
gmail.com>
---snip---
there are
areas that are rusty, for instance the bottom of a
deep scratch, you need
to
get that out and down to bright metal... A wire brush, dremel tool, etc
can
be used here. You dont want to wire brush the whole item, it will leave
scratches that will telegraph thru any new primer or paint you apply and
show on the surface of the new paint.
---snip---
Hi
For things like rust in scratches, I've used some phosphate liquid
primer stuff. It stablizes the rust. I've just about run out of the
stuff but can't find it in stores any more. I originally bought it
at a boat shop. I've used it on my board trailer before painting
it. That was about 12 years ago. Considering that it goes into
salt water, I have no case other than the springs where rust
is spreading under the paint.
It was a greenish clear liquid that was water based.
Dwight
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Phosphoric acid, usually buffered is sometimes a prefered pre-treatment
prior to primer. The old metal guys would call this galvanising. Idea is
to wipe it on, and wipe it off before it drys and to not let it leave a
white residue. This will eat tiny rust and leave a surface thats rough and
resistant to rusting for a few days, weeks, months while you prepare other
areas for primer/paint. Note that some primers claim to be incompatible
with this treatment. I use a lot of this, Keep it in 5 gal buckets so I
can dip parts in it. You can get it at most paint stores and HD in gallons
for not a lot of $. Beware not to use any acid treatment on hightly
stressed items for which your life depends on it.
The End-Rust conversion coat stuff (tanic acid based I think) is ok for
floorboards and iron workitems but I would not recommend it for something
like a computer cabinet. where you want appearance or you are trying to
acheive a high level of restoration "fidelity".
One last tip, for aluminum items never use a steel wire brush, steel wool or
sand paper made from aluminum oxide on the surface. Tiny fragments will
embed in the metal and start a corrosion process. The corrosion treatment
process prior to primer is usually done with either an etching primer or a
Alodine metal salt conversion process.
Jay for that textured coating, I am not sure how they did that but expect it
was something in the paint mixture that dried at one rate while something
else dried at another. I do know of one project where the first coat set up
the pattern and then the 2nd & 3rd coat was the color. That finish is an
industrial one that replaced wrinkle paint (aircraft panels) and hammertone
finishes for surfaces that would be handled and it was desirable to hide
damage and dirt. you might be able to simulate the cottage cheese effect
by spraying a coat of primer and then using something to texture it and then
let it dry, some experimentation with a $2 can of primer and some coated
cardboard might yield a method. Things like saran wrap, sponges, pizza
crust (!) might make good patterns.