Tony Duell wrote...
The right way to get better depth of field for oblique
shots is to tilt
the lens (!).
[...]
The problem is that no digital camera has a tilting front.
In the interests of completeness, I should say that this isn't strictly
speaking true. Canon make EOS mount tilt/shift lenses, which will work on
any of their digital SLRs (three of them, 24, 45 and 90mm IIRC.) In fact,
their APS-C sensor DSLRs are in many ways ideal - the smaller-than-35mm
sensor size means you're unlikely to see any vignetting even at extreme
ends of the available movements.
(For the uninitiated, a lens intended for tilt/shift, such as the TS-E
lenses or anything made for a technical/view camera, needs to project an
image circle significantly larger than the imaging plane (film/sensor), to
allow for moving the projected image around as you move the lens. The
extreme ends of the movements on the tilt/shift FD mount lens I use on my
film camera are marked in red - this indicates you're going to start
seeing vignetting if you tilt/shift this far because the image circle no
longer covers the whole film area. Because most (not all) digital SLRs
use smaller APS size sensors (~25mm longest edge IIRC rather than ~36)
this is less of a problem.)
That said, the Canon TS-E lenses are considered 'speciality' lenses and
priced accordingly; unless you're going to make a living out of
architectural photography not really a serious recommendation.
My recommendation for a cheap digital starter kit for doing what you want
would be the bottom of the range Canon digtal SLR (EOS 400D in Europe,
'Digital Rebel XTi' I think in USA - identical camera, but US market
apparently demands a 'cool' name like 'Rebel'.) Buy it body-only, and buy
the Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro lens as well.
The EF-S is a beautiful lens at a very reasonable price; top-notch
quality, the effective focal length given the smaller sensor in a DSLR is
around 90mm, which is pretty reasonable for what you're looking to do, and
most importantly it can do true 1:1 macro for when you want the photos of
individual chips on that motherboard. It's also compatible with the Canon
ringlight flash if you find yourself doing a lot of macro.
The only caveat is that being an EF-S, it's not compatible with
full-frame DSLRs or film SLRs (EF-S lenses take advantage of the smaller
sensor & mirror size in DSLRs to extend the optics further back into the
camera; if you could mount them on a film cam (which you can't, the mount
prevents it,) the back of the lens would smash the mirror.
Oh, that reminds me, in a conversation a while ago possible sources of
weak acid solutions were being pondered. I meant to mention then, but it
didn't seem worth an entire post - photographic stop bath is a weak acid
solution, and readily available (in the UK, your high street Jessops still
stocks most photographic chemistry, for the timebeing at least.) 'Normal'
stop bath is acetic acid based I believe, you can also buy odourless (or
more accurately 'less obnoxious odour') stop bath which is usually citric
acid based.
Cheers,
Tim
--
Tim Walls at home in Leeds
EMail & MSN: tim.walls at
snowgoons.com