Further, anybody that does radio restoration knows the first step is to "De Cap
it"
Pull all electrolytics and replace.
Ceramic non polar is the way...
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 2010 00:32:02 +0000
From: classiccmp at philpem.me.uk
To:
Subject: Re: Getting to dislike tantalum caps
Teo Zenios wrote:
The aluminum electrolytic were the ones with
problems.
True, that. Google "Capacitor Plague."
It's been happening since the turn of the century, if not a bit earlier.
AIUI there are at least three different explanations:
- Early SMD electrolytics (the tin-can-on-plastic-base ones) tended
to suffer from failures of the sealing plug. Basically, convection or IR
soldering made the rubber plug deform, and after a while the cap would
just dry out, or leak all over the PCB.
- Later SMD capacitors had to be soldered with incredibly exact
thermal profiles. Some contract manufacturers upped the peak temperature
to get the solder joints to flow better. Catch: this also buggered up
the rubber seals on electrolytic caps. Same result as above.
- The "industrial espionage" explanation. Some jerkoff stole a
chemical formula for a low-ESR capacitor electrolyte from a major
Japanese capacitor manufacturer (I've heard the name Rubycon banded
about). Of course they only got part of the formula; it was missing a
few stabilising chemicals. Result: fzzt-boom after about 500 hours
runtime, or electrolyte leaking all over the PCB...
And then there's "just plain crap parts." Panasonic, Chemi-Con and
Rubycon are usually safe bets (though there are a lot of fake and
knock-off parts about -- e.g. "Rulycon" and "Fuhjyuu" -- the latter
has
the audacity to use a very slightly modified version of Hitachi's logo).
There's a database of capacitor manufacturers and their logos here --
<http://capacitor.web.fc2.com/>. The page is in Japanese, but Google
translates it into (mostly) readable English.
Tantalums are nice as long as you don't have
a voltage spike (they hate
going above their rated voltage and short).
This is why I usually spec them 50 to 100% higher than the highest
voltage I expect to see on the power line the cap is filtering. That is
to say, if I'm using a tantalum cap on a 5V line, I'll put a 7.5 or 10V
capacitor in there.
At least when the aluminum
electrolytic leak/go bad they just quit working (open), hopefully not
eating the circuit board.
Though more often than not, they *do* eat the PCB when they pack in,
especially the SMD ones...
--
Phil.
classiccmp at philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/
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