9 Jan
2006
9 Jan
'06
2:26 p.m.
Tony Duell wrote:
In the UK, the most common/first Epozy is called 'Araldite'. Actually,
there are _many_ types of Araldite, but the common one is a 2-part epoxy
that is pretty strong _if it keys to the material you're joining_. My
experience is that Epoxy-type adhesives are not that good on plastics,
disolving and thus welding being stronger most of the time.
I have never had a glued repair that is as strong
as the original, and
since the mounts cracked ones, they could easily crack again. And a CRT
coming loose is not pleasant!
I suppose that would depends on what's being glued, and what the glue
is. I've had a pretty good expereince with JB Weld, which is a brand of
two-part epoxy. I haven't used other two-part epoxies, so I don't know
if JB Weld is unique. Is it really that hard to drill a hole along the
axis of a cylinder? I
would have thought a 3-jaw self-centring chuck would have been accurate
enough for this sort of thing (I wouldn't bother trying to centre the
work in an indepenedant chuck). And drill with a twist drill in the
tailstock chuck.
Owning a lathe certainly opens up greater possibilities, However, I
don't own one, and I suspect most here don't either. I had some sort of premade standoff in mind, and was thinking the problem
would be getting
the old mount ground down flat enough.
A CRT inploding also alters the appearance :-). And possibly the
appearance of other machines and people near it.
Again, as I've said before, I don't care what my machines _look_ like.
They are not pieces of fine art. The beauty is in the design, and
possibly the contruction (but that's not changes by adding a few screws
to the front).
So make tapered matal pilars. Make the base as
wide as posible (maybe even
wider than the original plastic pillars), and put a decent-sized washer
under the screw head on the otehr side. That should spread the load quite
well.
Tapered mounts will still require a lathe. Washers on the outside
change the look of the machine even further, and may not even fit readily on the outside. Tapered mounts may not even
fit well on the
inside. Remember the base of many mounts is molded into the sides of
the case via webbed supports. This saves space and strengthens the
Given a lathe and milling facilities, I am sure you could make something
that would fit. No, I am not suggesting you need a milling machine as
well, most small lathes have milling attachments, such as a vertical
slide. That is perfectly adequate for this sort of job.
mounts. I'm not saying a metal mount definitely
won't work, but I am
saying the amount of work to overcome its potentially many short comings
is great. Especially since repairing the original won't change the look
of the machine, and should be a good repair if done right. I did like
I have never managed to glue a pillar back in place with sufficient
strengly to hold anything (and I know others who have had similar
problems, e.g. in radio restoration/repair). It is generally agreed you
need to put a screw through it.
your idea of putting a reinforcing cloth around the
break.
That works well. I used it to hold an HP9830 keyboard bezel together
(this plastic goes very brittle with age, and the bezels are almost
always shatteresd). I still wouldn't trust it for a stuctural part, though.
-tony