21 Mar
2008
21 Mar
'08
12:24 p.m.
I am nor pretty sure that unmarked block of 8
jumpers near the middle of
the board is to set what will bepunched y the Code Holes switch.
I didn't actually test, since they're labeled error code, but I'm sure
that's right.
It's the 4-position switch that's unlabeled which has me curious.
It doesn't look to be impossible to trace out schematics :-)
I asusme the DB26 _on_ the PCB is for RS232 only,
and that the parallel
inteerface comes in on the DB25 on the main chassis, next to the mains
connector. Is there a ridging board in the lower slot? I would think
there should be (since the pins of the latter DB25 only go to the lower
slot) I guess you could put any of the custom interface boards in that
slot as well
Yes, the DB25 on the card is serial, and the one on the chassis is
parallel. There's no board in the lower slot, though some of the doco
seems to suggest such a thing was routinely shipped.
There's a metal bar across the card bay toward the front of the unit
which prevents insertion of a card in the lower slot. I haven't tried
to remove it, or open the chassis up yet.
I have gotten it to punch stuff I sent it. The current issue is that
the tension bar/spindle is pulled clear over against the corner spindle
by the advancing tape, the tension rises too high, and the spacing of
the punches drops way into overlap. Eventually the supply reel gets
around to feeding some, and it clears up briefly. Lather/rinse/repeat.
The supply reel should turn in juerks as you pull the tape off (or as the
punch pulls it off), with the tension arn swining back and forth. The arm
should nnever get right over, though (I think that causes and error
condition).
My guess is that eirther the linkage needs adjusting, or that the supply
spool is stiff.
The unit knows it's in trouble; it's error
light comes on at the right
time. Haven't gotten to spend too much time chasing this one yet, and
I'm not well equipped for this kind of mechanical repair: I lack the
tension meter needed to check the drive against the manual specs.
I've never needed the tension gauge for this part. It's pretty crude and
in general prolems like you're seeing are cuased by a fault rather than a
misadjustment. Take the circlip off the centre spindle and remove the
supply reel. Then take a look.
-tony