29 May
2012
29 May
'12
8:01 p.m.
From ard at p850ug1.demon.co.uk on Tue May 29 18:46:27
2012:
From microcode
You're right about the connector. Someone responded on the Sun rescue list
suggesting that also, but from what I saw trying to remove the pins from
what was left of the connector on the "new" PSU they're the
self-destructing
pins with fish hooks built in, to make sure they never come out. I'm glad I
didn't try pulling the pins from the old PSU before I checked. For now the
unit is still running, albeit with unhappy amber lights and the occasional
nasty-gram from the BIOS.
All my tools are in storage and I can't get to them, or your next idea was
what I would do. If I don't come up with a connector and pins (just thought
about where I might order one now that I am typing this, from the same shop
that sold me a db9<->rj45 cable) I'll have to buy another soldering iron
and solder, if I can even get it into the country.
A kind-hearted list member sent me a PSU and some RAM for my V210. I
finally got around to installing stuff today and I found out one of
the connectors on the new PSU I received has shattered and splintered
and can't be used. Apparently from heat or age or both it became so
brittle it started disintegrating and the pins must have gotten damaged
along the way. The connector I am talking about is the 4 pin square
connector that goes through the bulkhead to the front system board and
terminates behind the system configuration card.
Myu first thoguht would be to use the conenctor from the faulty PSU.
It's probalby one of those things that's painful to extrac the pins from
and recrimp them without a special tool, so I'd eiterh desolder the wires
at the PSU board and (and solder them to the right points on the new PSU
board) or cut the wires are couple of inches from the connector ans join
them to the wwires from the new PSU. > As I was doing all this I spilled a nice full cup
of coffee (that I had
> deliberately moved out of the way, or so I thought) all over a Filco
Filco?
Yes, they're Taiwanese keyboards from Diatec (I think the owning company is
in Japan) with your choice of Cherry switches. I chose browns for the
feedback and less noise than the Cherry blues. They were being imported by
a guy in California but he has since switched over to Leupold. Anyway the
Filcos are very nice keyboards, solidly built, heavy, and the Cherry
mechanical switches are excellent and very fast. The only thing is the
keycap printing doesn't hold up and the finish on the keyboard is subpar
for what you pay. They've been my daily drivers for a few years now and
overall I'm satisfied. I have a few Model Ms and they're great but I'm not
as fast on those, although I find I type more accurately using them.
moving stuff
around so I could work on this machine. At least now I get
to test the "wash the keyboard in the shower" theory. So far it's dead
but maybe it will start working again when it dries out. If not that
was an expensive cup of coffee.
Befoe you give up, I'd take the keyboard as far aspart as you can (even
desolder bits if necessary) and clean all the bits separately. I doubt if
you've done any permanent damage.