On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 9:56 AM, Geoffrey Oltmans <oltmansg at gmail.com> wrote:
Heat might do it I suppose. I wonder if you could
"wake" them back up by
forcing each pixel full on/full off over and over?
If there's a black line consisting of a full line or lines of pixels,
that's most likely caused by either a fault in the driver for that
line, or a failure of the electrical connection. Cycling the pixels
won't help with that.
There's a lesser chance of dead lines being caused by having a DC bias
on that line for an extended period, which shouldn't happen except in
a failure of the LCD controller. Cycling the pixels could help with
that, but if the controller failed to cause it, it's unlikely that the
controller has started working correctly again. Since this kind of
failure only occurs when the LCD is powered up with the controller not
working for an extended period of time, it's not going to result from
having the LCD being stored unpowered for an extended time.
The black blob problem, which usually eventually reaches the all-black
case, is caused by a chemical change (oxidation?) of the liquid
crystal material, and I don't think there's anything you can do
electrically that's going to fix or even reduce the problem. AFAICT
that's caused by the seal failing, which can be caused by temperature
extremes, but sometimes just happens as a result of aging.
It can also be caused by mechanical pressure between the glass layers,
but leaving it sit for a few years, even with wide temperature swings,
shouldn't cause it in that manner.