OK. <blush> I totally misread the original posting. I thought the
discussion was about the RL02 drive and not the packs. Apologies.
I'd love to hear how to take the packs apart and clean them...
Chris
On Sunday (03/06/2011 at 04:01PM -0600), Chris Elmquist wrote:
On Sunday (03/06/2011 at 06:06PM +0000), Tony Duell
wrote:
I recently picked up a RL02 pack from a recycler. After doing my usual
tear-down and clean process, I tested the pack on my 11/34C. It was 100%
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What do you do? I know the stanadard procedure for RK05 packs, but what
do you dismantle, and how do you clean, the RL's?
What a great topic... as I have been doing this exact effort for the
past several weeks. I have completely cleaned and brought back online
two RL02 and a third is just entering the process.
Before I ever try to spin one up, I take the front panel off and remove
the black pre-filter. It is guaranteed to be disintegrating and turning
into a fine black powder. Exactly the kind of thing you don't want
sucked into the drive.
I vacuum out entire front area behind the front panel and the backside
of the panel itself.
I then take off the top covers and vacuum out the well where the pack
sits and wipe the entire area down with a damp cloth. Clean out ALL
the junk... cob webs, hairs, there will surely be a lot of junk in there.
Then I clean out the rear near the fan. The fan blades will be loaded
up with dust and I take off the grill and wipe those down with a Swiffer
duster cloth as well as vacuum the whole fan assembly.
Then there is the issue of the "absolute filter" which is the roughly
3" x 9" HEPA-like filter accessible from the front. I was fortunate
to have one of these that was nearly new but others have been polluted
by the disintegrating black foam pre-filter. I am currently looking at
one that is completely black on the intake side-- totally loaded up with
the black carbon-like dust that the pre-filter turns into. Not cool.
I was just about to post to the list asking if there is a source for these
absolute filters still (which I doubt) or if anyone has a process for
rebuilding them? I've already stripped the filter element out of one and
so I have an empty frame and am then considering modifying a HEPA filter
for a room air cleaner or other appliance that uses a HEPA filter module.
I will have to cut the filter to size and then glue it into the frame
(similar to how these originals were made) using an elastomeric caulk
or similar. But-- is there a better way??
After dust and dirt cleaning... then I clean the heads. I very carefully
use a cotton swap soaked in isopropyl alchohol... 91%... drug store
stuff... and rub it between the lower and upper head, sort of twirling
it back and forth which removes the junk on the head pretty easily.
I do this several times until the cotton swap comes out clean.
At this point, I am brave enough to try to spin the drive up. I will
take a known good not not precious pack and put it in the drive. You
of course have to have a controller connected to the drive and powered
on so that the drive gets clock over the interface. At this point you
should have the fault light out and the load light lit. You can press
load and hear the drive spin up. Hopefully. I have one drive that will
spin up, attempt to load the heads and then immediately fault. After
several experiments trying to get this drive to load the heads so that I
could do some of the alignment procedures, I found that it was actually
crashing the head into the media and I wrecked that pack. That drive is
now a parts donor. I don't know exactly the failure mode but I suspect
that the spindle is no longer aligned with the heads... due to some
abuse like the thing being dropped. Dunno for sure.
If you get to this point and the drive spins up and doesn't crash the
heads then you can try to read the pack using one of the diags in XXDP2.5.
I use ZRLMB1 which will read the entire pack and report the bad sectors
found. On one of my drives I had consistent failures at cylinder 490
and beyond... which after performing the read amplifier gain adjustment
procedure found here,
http://bitsavers.org/pdf/dec/disc/rl01_rl02/EK-RL122-TM-001_techAug82.pdf
the problem went away. I set the gain just slightly hotter than they spec
on the theory that many of these packs are old now and probably produce
a weaker signal than originally designed. I repeat the test across a
selection of packs to get the average signal level too since I don't
have a "standard" test pack (saw one on eBay for $1000 the other day!!)
So, I have had good luck with 2 out of 3 RL02 so far. These filters
might be an interesting challenge but I don't think insurmountable.
Chris
--
Chris Elmquist