2 Dec
2018
2 Dec
'18
6:42 p.m.
Having the sleeve to keep it from over rotating makes more sense when it has that dud pin.
You don't want to bump that pin so it would have more relief. If you over rotated,
you'd need another key with the dud pin in the new location. That would be a pain for
doing each position with a new key.
Dwight
________________________________
From: cctalk <cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org> on behalf of dwight via cctalk
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2018 6:33 PM
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: Picking tubular locks (WAS : Text encoding Babel. now PICKING LOCKS OR
FINDING KEY MFR AND KEY #
The idea is not to pick it open but to make a key. Once you've rotated half way
between two pins, you can remove the tool and measure the heights of the pins.
I like the idea of having a limiter sleeve on the outside to ride in the
slot.
Dwight
________________________________
From: cctalk <cctalk-bounces at classiccmp.org> on behalf of Fred Cisin via cctalk
<cctalk at classiccmp.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2018 6:19 PM
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: Picking tubular locks (WAS : Text encoding Babel. now PICKING LOCKS OR
FINDING KEY MFR AND KEY #
On Mon, 3 Dec 2018, dwight via cctalk wrote:
Fred is probably right but it would be fun to try a
bump key on these.
It would be a lot simpler to make. You just take a blank key and cut
each pin location deep enough so when fully engaged it would push the
pins in about 1/16 inch. Then grind the piece that locks in in until
fully turned off. Then one would put some rubber washers on it so that
it just lifts off the pins from the washers lifting it.
One could most likely tension by hand but like Fred says, one could
easily over shoot and then have to pick it again.
How about making it with two concentric tubes; one operating, and an outer
partial one that locks to the outer notch, with a slider between the
tubes, so that you are applying tension to the inner tube, but the outer
one limits you to not making it as far as the next pin position.
But, for use as an unlocking tool, you do need to turn more than one pin
position, often as much as 90 degrees. So, though it would pick the lock,
you WOULD need to repeat.
Please let us know how it goes!
I'm a bit overdue on machining a better version of the conventional one -
calibrated pin positions, better adjustment of resistance including
solid locking of them, including being able to work with and without
detents at the standard cut depths.
Lack of necessity is the mother of procrastination!