11 Apr
2001
11 Apr
'01
2:31 p.m.
Richard Erlacher wrote:
Look "good" ... ??? ... Depends on your
preferences, I guess.
A big part of the question of HOW to go about fixing this is to answer the
question of whether your goal is to restore the KIM-1 to its original condition
for historical authenticity or whether you'd just as soon have something that
works well instead.
Operational is the main thing, but I'd be thrilled to restore it if the opportunity
came up.
My main interest in the KIM and other really simple machines is as a
hands-on demo of what being a computerist was like in the early days
of microcomputers, before the keyboard, box, and monitor
paradigm took hold. Extra points for toggle switches too. :)
I've seen interest in the thing from visitors who are
into computers, and so far all were less "what a quaint but completely
prehistoric piece of junk" than "wow, I can't believe a machine with
1/1000th the CPU speed and 1/64,000th the memory can play
Hunt the Wumpus and other games and they're even a little fun." :)
It's a tribute to doing an amazing amount with what by modern standards
seems preposterously little, and I think preserving this realization is part
of what being "into" classic computers can be about.
If the former is your goal, then you've a lot of
hunting to
do, but may eventually find out how to modify some other product to fit the
application. On the other hand, there are lots of available keypads, or, if you
prefer, lots of available individual keyswitches with removable/clear-capped
tops, that you can build a really decent and servicable keypad that you can
attach to the auxilliary connector in order to substitute it for the original
without having first to remove the existing keypad. It seems to me that they
should work quite well in parallel.
Okay. I try the regular electronics outlets. I'll try specifically keyboard
manufacturers (ALPs, Cherry, etc. I guess) and see what I can dig up.
I don't know that Commodore actually fabricated the keypads themselves, and, in
fact, rather doubt it, so it's likely someone, somewhere, will have used a
similar keypad, or, at least, similar switches, so that will provide you with
amusement at swapmeets and junk sales. Moreover, if you haven't yet looked at
third-party switch catalogs, I'd certainly recommend that so you can explore
replacing the keypad with a possibly more durable and/or convenient, yet
cosmetically similar keypad.
This will require some serious head-scratching.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Archer" <dogbert(a)mindless.com>
To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 1:17 AM
Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ethan Dicks <ethan_dicks(a)yahoo.com>
> To: <classiccmp(a)classiccmp.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 1:21 PM
> Subject: Re: Kim / Commie keypads
>
>
> >
> > --- Richard Erlacher <edick(a)idcomm.com> wrote:
> > > It's pretty hard to tell whether it's the keypad or the circuit
that's
> > > malfunctioning. How did you determine it's the keypad itself?
> >
> > Looking at the schematic, it appears to be a simple matrix. Short a
> particular
> > X and Y line for the questionable key. If it "strikes", it's the
keypad.
> > If it still flakes out, it could be a component or trace.
> >
>
> Right. It's a 3 x 7 array with 2 keys wired to a 556 for ST (step) and
> RS (reset).
>
> I've already tested the broken keys via the edge connector, and they're
> working fine. Not that there was too much doubt, as the buttons
> involved are either caved in or "feel like they're not connecting
> with anything". So a 3x7 + 2 switch setup should do the trick,
> but what would look good.
>
> > -ethan
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Even though my old e-mail address is no longer going to
> > vanish, please note my new public address: erd(a)iname.com
> >
> > The original webpage address is still going away. The
> > permanent home is: http://penguincentral.com/
> >
> > See http://ohio.voyager.net/ for details.
> >
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> >
>
>