Hi
No, even the tube may be revived some. You can
often run the heater at a higher voltage for some
time and check the emission periodically. Usually,
you can safely run the filament at 1.5 to 2 times
the rated voltage for 5 or 6 hours. It is usually
The method generally used on TV tubes of the period (and I don't see why
monitor tubes would be any different) was something like :
1) Over-run the heater. Typically a 6.3V heater would be run at 8V or 10V
2) Apply a fairly high (200V-ish) +ve voltage the control grid (wrt the
cathode), all other electrodes floating (no EHT applied either).
This, combined with the overheated cathode, stripped the top layer of
emissive stuff off the cathode, hopefully exposing a fresh surface. It
worked will on some CRTs, on others, it totally removed the emissive
material and you ended up with a totally useless CRT. But you've nothing
to lose by trying it on an otherwise useless tube
There was also a simple way to do an emission test. Again the only
electrodes you used were the heater, cathode, and control grid. I think
you ran the heater at the normal voltage and used the cathode/grid as a
diode and measured the current flow with a fairly low (if any) +ve
voltage on the grid. The higher the current, the better the cathode was
emitting.
Many designs for such devices have been published in the magazines. The
lethal ones get the 300V or so by rectifying the mains (or in your case
using a voltage doubler on the mains). More friendly ones used an
isolating transformer or a oscillator/step up transformer from a battery.
-tony